After resting about an hour, and distributing some presents, as I had done to all the caboceers and head men on my journey, we marched on our return for Baffo, which we reached in the evening, where I again took up my old quarters.
July 22d.—Early in the morning, Jeka Housoo, caboceer of Mount Joko, came all the way to Baffo, with twenty-two calabashes of provisions for my breakfast. I had now made up my mind to remain at Baffo, and explore the neighbourhood of this romantic place, and, if possible, to ascertain the name of the mountains already mentioned in my Journal. They appeared to me to be the same as those described by the old Mahomedan priest, (who paid me several private visits, according to the custom at Abomey,) as the Dabadab[11] mountains, where I should find Terrasso-weea, another Mahomedan priest, who was living in Yaouri, and present at the murder of Mungo Park, and who would be able to give me every information I might require respecting the melancholy fate of that unfortunate traveller. All my inquiries, however, were in vain. When I asked any person unconnected with my own party, their answer uniformly was, that they did not know the name of these mountains; they could only just perceive them in the distance; that they were too far away to know their name; and that I must ask my own caboceer.
I had already found out that orders had been given by the King that no person, who was not quite acquainted with any subject I might require information upon, was to pretend to answer any inquiries. But even my own caboceer pretended ignorance of the name of these mountains. I therefore determined to steal a march, if possible, from my guard of soldiers, although I was aware it would be attended with difficulty as well as hazard to myself and those who accompanied me. I went out and returned again frequently during the day, from short shooting excursions, till the caboceer of my guard considered a few men sufficient to attend me during these rambles in the neighbourhood. This was just what I was aiming at. When I found my object so far attained, I called my own private servants, Thomas and John, and told them of my intention to visit the distant mountains I had that day been observing through my telescope, informing them that these mountains were, beyond a doubt, the same as those described by the old priest at Abomey as the place where we should find Terrasso-weea.
They were, they said, of the same opinion; but when I again told them of my intention to visit those mountains, they pointed out many objections, some of which were not unreasonable. They were aware of the strict injunctions of the King to my guard respecting my safety and return to Abomey, and also that the captain, or caboceer, of my guard was responsible by his head for my safe return; they moreover observed, that if we entered the territory of another prince with an armed force, it would place us in danger. Still I persevered in my intention of proceeding, and told them I would make each of them a present of a handsome piece of cloth, over and above their pay, upon my return, if they would accompany me. This was to them a tempting offer for one day’s journey (as we then supposed). They promised to keep all quiet, and agreed to my arrangement. I told them that I would go out early in the morning, as if on a shooting excursion, and directed them to bring with them one head of cowries, and a small box, containing a few clasp knives and some small scissors, Jew’s harps, needles, and thimbles. With these few articles we went out to shoot; and as I generally shot off my horse’s back, no suspicion of my intentions was evinced by any of the rest of my party.
It fortunately happened, that early on this morning the caboceer from Mount Awya, whose name is Cassoo, had brought us plenty of provision and live-stock, namely, a goat, a fowl, some yams, and five strings of cowries, so that I had an opportunity of leaving when the soldiers were at breakfast. Only three soldiers accompanied me, one of whom happened to be a Fellattah. After we had gone about five miles, and I not appearing to notice the different birds, my attendants pointed out to me the palm and shea butter nut trees as we passed, and appeared to become uneasy, broadly hinting that it was now time to return. However, I was determined not to let the present opportunity slip, but at once told them that I intended to visit a friend who was at present trading in a town close at the foot of the distant high mountains.
The path bore (true) North 50° towards East. The land is level and rich loam, and well watered from chalky or pipe-clay springs. After leaving Baffo a few miles, nothing of cultivation shows itself till within a few miles of the town of Zafoora, where the soil is well cultivated, and crops of maize and Guinea corn are abundant; yams and manioc are also plentiful. Palm-nuts and ground nuts also abound; and here the shea-butter is in common use for burning in their lamps, which are of a very simple construction, being merely a shallow earthen vessel in the shape of a saucer. Their method of trimming their lamps is as simple as the construction of the lamp itself: a piece of wick is twisted from the native cotton which is abundant here, and coiled up in the vessel, then a quantity of the shea butter, about the consistence of hog’s-lard, is pressed into the lamp, on the top of the wick. The lamp thus trimmed is placed in a small niche, several of which are left in the wall when the house is built. As the heat of the lighted wick approaches, the butter melts into a liquid like oil, and burns extremely clear, without any unpleasant smell.
FOOTNOTES:
[8] Commander-in-chief of the militia.
[9] After proceeding some distance into the interior the cowrie increases in value.
[10] Matcholee, one of the principal men of Whagba, was selected as one of the most intelligent men in the Mahee country, and summoned to Abomey to be my guide through that country.