[11] Dababab is, as I have already mentioned, a sort of dumpling, made without fat, composed of the meal of the Indian corn.
CHAPTER IV.
Zafoora—Terror of the Natives—Cold Reception by the King—My Disappointment—Exorbitant Charge—Unpleasant Position—Palaver with the King—Scene of the Defeat of the Dahomans—Inhospitality—The Shea-butter, and other Trees—The Gwbasso—Prevalent Diseases—Soil—The Velvet Tamarind—Wearisome Journey—Akwaba—Cold Reception by the Caboceer—His Disappointment—Slave Trade—Hard Bargain—Manufacture of Indigo—Hardware—The Ziffa—King Chosee and his Cavalry—Their Hostile Attitude—Moment of Danger—Result of a Firm Demeanour—Respect shewn by the King and Natives—Enter Koma with a Band of Music—Kind Reception—Introduction to the King’s Wives—Palaver with the King—The Niger known here as the Joleeba—Presents to the King—Babakanda—Exorbitant Charges for Provisions—Manufactures—Ginger, Rice, &c.—Seka—Bustle of the Caboceer—Slave-Market—Trade Monopolized by the Caboceer—The Kolla-nut—Honey—Peto—Palaver with the Caboceer—Soil—Assofoodah—Hostile Reception—Palaver—Ridiculous Confusion—Inhospitality.
Upon my near approach to the town of Zafoora, the people employed in the fields appeared, but fled from their employment, halting at short intervals and looking backward, like startled cattle. However, as we came nearer to the entrance of the town, they seemed more bold and awaited our approach. A messenger on the look-out had doubtless informed the caboceer or king of our approach, and he had sent a messenger or head man to inquire what we wanted, from whence we came, and if we bore any message or presents for him; but my reply was, that I merely came to see himself. I remained outside the inner gate till the messenger returned, who was detained some time. My people now showed some symptoms of alarm, and we found by experience that we were not under the protection of the good King of Dahomey. No ready-cooked provisions, no prostrations, or cheerful welcome, but all looked curiosity and suspicion. At length the messenger returned, informing us that the King would shortly be ready to receive us. Accordingly, in about a quarter of an hour afterwards, he made his appearance, surrounded by his head men and soldiers. The soldiers, who were bowmen and spearmen, exhibited the most singular gestures as they approached till within a few paces, when the whole party halted. The King in person then desired to know if it were himself I wanted. During this inquiry he eyed me with apparent doubt or suspicion. I told him I hoped I saw him well and happy, but I had another object in view besides coming to see him, which was to visit a merchant, a Mahomedan fetish-man, named Terrasso-weea.
As soon as I mentioned this man, the King, as if aroused from stupor, was all politeness and condescension; but to my great disappointment and dismay, I was informed that my friend had left that town, after a long sojourn, for one at a great distance in the interior. This seemed almost like a death-blow to me, and I could also observe that my people were much disheartened, as well as foot-sore and tired. My poor fellows were glad to lie down, and my little horse seemed a little tired, although I had walked some considerable distance. I had travelled forty-four miles, almost without halting. Concealing as much as possible my disappointment, I began to make some inquiry where I could purchase some fowls. The King immediately ordered some to be brought, from which I selected two, but was astonished when, upon asking the price, I was told twelve strings of cowries for each fowl. This was an exorbitant charge, as the selling price amongst each other is 1¹⁄₂d.; however, I was obliged to comply with the extortion, although I had only one head of cowries with me, not expecting to be absent more than a day. It is true I had some articles of hardware, but although they would greedily have accepted them as presents, yet money—money seemed to speak their language better than any thing else, as in fact it does in all countries.
This circumstance was rather a damper on a private scheme I had then in contemplation. During the time our meal was being cooked, which was both our dinner and supper, I made inquiry how far distant the place was to which the merchant had gone, and was informed that, supposing I commenced my journeys every morning before the rising of the sun, and walked fast, without stopping to eat till the sun was gone out of sight, I should reach the place in eight or nine days at farthest. One man said he had once been with this Mahomedan priest, and returned from Adafoodia in seven days. I was informed by the King of Zafoora, that the merchant had a white man in his company. This information was a stimulus to my determination to pursue my object of obtaining information. The white man I conjectured must have been a man named Bell, who had obtained a free passage from England to Fernando Po, whence he said he intended to proceed up the Niger to the confluence of the Shadda, thence up that river to the lake Shad, and there remain three years. This I was told on the coast, but from what I had already experienced of the African climate, I feared that his calculations were too extravagant, still I could come to no other conclusion than that the white man spoken of by the King must be the same.
I now began to reflect upon my present position. First, I had left my guard in a clandestine manner, and in all probability I might be the means of an excellent man (my caboceer) losing his head. Next, I might incur the displeasure of the King of Dahomey, who had been my real friend; and, lastly, I might probably sacrifice those who accompanied me. I had, however, already made a serious breach, and I determined to proceed at all hazards, resolving to send the weakest of my three soldiers back to Baffo, to inform the caboceer of my guard that my friend had gone on a few days’ journey, accompanied by a countryman whom I was anxious to see, and desired him to make himself easy till my return, which would be as soon as possible.
The King of Zafoora entered into a lengthened inquiry respecting the Dahomans, but I dared not acknowledge the patronage of the King of Dahomey, nor yet let him know that the soldiers accompanying me belonged to him, otherwise I might have been deemed a spy. It was now that I learned the reason the Dahomans would not know the name of the Dabadab Mountains. Many years ago the Dahomans besieged those mountains; but after remaining near their foot, and suffering much from small-pox and fever, which they deemed to proceed from the vengeance of their own fetish, they raised their unsuccessful siege, and those who survived returned in shame to Abomey; upon which a proclamation was issued that the name of these mountains should never again be mentioned, or the small-pox, as that disease is very much dreaded on the whole of the west coast, as well as in the interior. I was glad when the King ceased his inquiries, for my people required rest as well as myself. We were allowed to remain in this hut during the night with my horse tied up outside. One fowl was reserved for our breakfast in the morning—rather a scanty allowance for all of us; but we had stored our havresacks pretty well with heads of corn, which was nearly ripe at this season, and very sweet. Although the caboceer, after my inquiry respecting Terrasso-weea, appeared tolerably friendly, and eager to receive any little article as a present, he never offered me anything in return.
July 24th.—Early in the morning we commenced our journey, having made a hurried and rather scanty breakfast. One of my soldiers returning to Baffo, I had now only four persons besides myself. The path bore N. 35° W. varying to N. 10° W. and N. 15° W. (true) bearing. The country was level and well watered, open and studded with small clumps of bushes and shea butter-trees as well as palm. On the plain I observed many large sycamore-trees, with very large leaves, and the bark rather more rough than those in England. The acacia is also very abundant in this neighbourhood. At six miles we reached the river Gwbasso, which is of considerable magnitude, being twenty yards wide, and twelve feet deep. The banks were nearly level with the water, the river running eastward at the rate of three miles per hour. It abounds with alligators of great size, as well as hippopotami.
Little of interest occurred during this day’s journey: we only passed a few miserable krooms, where kankie and water were sold to travellers, each kroom growing merely enough of corn to supply their own wants. Small-pox and yaws seemed to have made great havoc amongst the natives; probably, on that account, intercourse with their neighbours was strictly forbidden.