At about twenty miles, we halted by the side of a small rivulet, running eastward. It had cut a deep channel in the soil, which was at this place red and crumbly, resembling that in the vicinity of our copper-mines in England. On the banks were numerous shrubs and brambles, and plenty of the velvet-tamarind trees. Here we lighted a fire under the shade of one of these last-mentioned trees, where we had a glorious feast upon roasted corn; but my little horse relished the corn very well without taking the trouble to roast it.
We remained about an hour and a half, when we resumed our journey, my men complaining of the soreness of their feet, for the road was now very rough with red pebbles, which bruised them very much. After a tiresome journey of thirty-one miles, we arrived at the town of Akwaba. Here we were obliged to wait a considerable time before we could be admitted into the inner gates of the town, the caboceer having to ornament himself previous to making his appearance; and here also the caboceer received us rather coolly, seeming to be very anxious to know my object in coming to visit his country. I was aware that it was of no use to explain that I came with scientific views, so I told him I came to see himself and my friend, (as I called him,) Terrasso-weea. This name seemed to gain me welcome every where, and I found it very convenient. We were invited into the market-place to make our palaver, and some water was handed us to drink. This pleased me and my people much, as we were aware that this was the truest mark of their friendship; but they offered us nothing to eat, although I can answer, the packman’s drouth was at that moment most pressing.[12] However, we were obliged to submit to a great many idle questions, respecting white men’s country, and also respecting the Dahoman country, which they seemed to dread much, and exclaimed much against the Dahomans for not allowing guns and other articles of trade to pass through into the Fellattah country.
The caboceer seemed much disappointed when he found, upon inquiry, that I was not come to purchase slaves, informing me that he had got plenty to supply me with at a very cheap rate. He said he could conceive no other motive for white man coming to black man’s country, unless to trade in some way or other. I told him I had been trading, but my goods were nearly exhausted, and shewed him some Jew’s harps and needles. These he admired, but still he preferred money (cowries), but would like a present to keep in remembrance of me. This I told him was all very well, but I wanted to barter for some food. After much higgling, we made a hard bargain for some fowls and a large duck, which we were obliged to keep an eye upon, lest he should be again restored to his family. Had we killed him he would have been spoiled before morning, as nothing of animal life will keep good more than a few hours. Our method of taking the feathers off was by dipping the fowls in hot water, which saved a great deal of trouble. We purchased a small quantity of red rice, which grows in this country, and with the two fowls and some shalots, we managed to make an excellent meal, after which we were left to repose in a tolerably comfortable hut, but without mat or bedding of any description. The natives here are nearly all Mahomedan, but are not scrupulous as to the creed or habits of others, having been mixed up so much with Pagans throughout their long wars a few years back.
Early on the morning of the 25th we again breakfasted off cold fowl and some cold boiled corn. One of the soldiers fastened the Muscovy drake’s feet together, and tied him to his havresack; and thus we commenced our march from Akwaba, the path leading northward, narrow, and worn very deep, which was caused by the water running along it. The land was still level, with stunted trees of various descriptions, to me unknown by name. At seven miles we passed a small kroom, where indigo was rudely manufactured by pounding or grinding the leaves upon a stone upon which they also grind corn. When ground sufficiently it is made up into round balls about the size of a cricket-ball, and exposed in the market for sale. Iron is manufactured in this country. In this kroom hoes for agricultural use are made in a superior manner, as also stirrups, similar to those used by the Moors in the neighbourhood of Tangiers and El-Arish. Bits for horses’ bridles are also manufactured here of a very severe description, the cross-bar or mouth-piece having in its centre a ring large enough to allow the horse’s under-jaw to pass easily through it: this ring of course acts both as bit and curb, but is very likely to break the horse’s jaw, which is very frequently the case in the Fellattah country.
In the neighbourhood of this kroom we again stocked our havresacks with corn, which was of a superior sort, being smaller in the grain, and very sweet. At twelve miles we crossed the river Ziffa, which runs eastward. This river is of little magnitude, though navigable by canoes of a large size. The country in the vicinity of the path was nearly level, but low table-mountains might be observed at a great distance to the eastward. At twenty-seven miles we arrived at the cultivated land in the vicinity of the town of Koma. It appears that as soon as our presence was known in the Fellattah country, and the route which we were pursuing, messengers had been despatched before us to apprise the caboceers of our coming.
When about a mile from the town, while passing through the corn plantation, we were met by Chosee, the King of this province, preceded by a host of cavalry, of extraordinary appearance, who came to meet us, flourishing their short broad-swords above their heads, accompanied by the wildest yells imaginable. Their horses were at their speed, but the little animals being over weighted, did not get over the ground very fast. My attendants were much alarmed at so unusual a spectacle, never having seen any mounted soldiery before. They halted in astonishment, not knowing whether they were our friends or enemies. I cannot but confess that I felt something of the same uncertainty myself; however, long exposure to danger and privation have a wonderful influence in preparing the mind for the various chances of travelling in a barbarous country, and we are often carried through scenes of danger and difficulty scarcely without noticing them at the moment they occur, though upon subsequent reflection we often shudder at the idea of the danger we ran. I told my men not to be alarmed or show any symptoms of fear. They marched in single file close to my horse’s heels, but I directed them that if an attack were made upon us, the act of my drawing my sword was to be a signal of defence, as it would be useless for us to sell our lives cheaply.
Before we had time to say more, the party were close upon us. I was aware that I had a much superior horse to any I observed amongst this troop; and I also knew that I had much superior weapons to theirs, and that I could destroy a number of them in a short time; yet, if they stood, it was useless to hope for any success against such a disparity of numbers. However, when they were about three yards from me, the whole of this confused rabble pulled up short and commenced a song, each keeping his own time, in praise of the wisdom and power of their King, the group opening out from their centre to allow King Chosee to advance. I was aware that it was a customary thing for all strangers and inferiors to prostrate themselves before the kings or superior rulers; but I was equally aware that by so doing I should be lessening the dignity of my country, as well as their own respect towards myself. I remained consequently on horseback, till the King dismounted and was in the act of prostration, when I desired him not to do so, as it was not customary in my country. I then immediately dismounted, and shook hands with him, which is also a customary form of salutation in this country. His chiefs and principal men were then introduced to me. After going through the usual ceremonies observed upon receiving strangers of note, I was invited to enter the town of Koma.
This town, like nearly all others in that country, is strongly walled and fenced round, with only two gates. We were conducted to the market-place, preceded by a rude band of musicians, playing instruments like the ancient hautboy. The music was rude to the ear of an European, but still not unpleasant, and my people were quite delighted with it. I felt myself more at home in this town than in any place I had passed since I left the Mahee country. The King acknowledged that he was made aware that my purpose in passing through the country was to visit Terrrasso-weea. He, it appeared, was much esteemed as a man of talent, independently of his being a fetish-man. I was treated by this King with every mark of respect, and even kindness. He introduced me to his sister, to whom I presented a few needles and two thimbles.
After returning to the market-place, the King introduced me to some of his wives, who were like so many sheep in a pen, over the walls of which on one side they could conveniently look. Here I was requested to station myself for show, like a wild beast in some public menagerie Some of the young wives seemed to take great interest in seeing a white man; others, upon my looking steadfastly at them, ran back, as if alarmed. The weather being hot, I felt extremely thirsty, and asked one of my people to get me some water; whereupon the multitude of wives hearing what I requested, were in a moment all in a bustle which should be the first to present me with a calabash full of water. No doubt they expected a present for their attention. To the lady who first presented me with water, I gave a few needles. The King, perceiving that I was thirsty, ordered plenty of palm-wine to be set before me and my people. We were shortly after invited into one of the King’s inner apartments, where provisions in abundance were set before us, amongst which I observed a fine guano, which had been dried like a kippered salmon, and cooked with native rice. Not much relishing, however, this alligator-like customer, I made over the whole of it to my people, and contented myself with some goat-soup, which was excellent.
The King made many inquiries respecting my acquaintance with Terrasso-weea, and how long I had known him. To these questions I was rather perplexed how to answer, but was obliged to acknowledge that I had only seen his friend, the Mahomedan priest, at the great custom at Abomey. A great many questions were then put to me as to how I happened to come to Abomey, and if I had ever seen that great warrior, the King of Dahomey. I confessed that I had, but happened merely to be passing through his country, when he asked me to remain a few days, as he might have done it himself, and that I was only travelling across the country to ascertain whether it would be possible to establish a trade with this part of Africa, by bringing guns and gunpowder to exchange for their produce. Upon this he seemed much pleased, but quickly asked me whether we would take slaves in exchange. I replied that we were more in want of corn and oil, as well as ivory, all of which he professed to be able to supply in abundance.