The natives of this country are very different, both in form and appearance, as well as in character, and possess more elasticity of temper than natives near the west coast. They are also more quick in their ideas, and have greater expression in their features; and are either very warm friends, or determined and persevering enemies. Their cranium differs considerably from that of the Mahees, the frontal bone being square and high, and altogether displaying greater powers of intellect. Here I was treated with much more kindness than I had anticipated, though nearly the whole of the natives were Mahomedans.
After being invited into the interior of the town, and seated in the court-yard of the palaver, we were presented with a large calabash of clean water, one of the chief’s principal men drinking first. A bottle-calabash was then handed to us full of wild honey, which is abundant here, and we were supplied with wood to make a fire to cook our breakfast. My people were now in tolerably good spirits, since we were so well received, and had got, or rather stolen, plenty of corn for our consumption for the whole day. We had also a very fine Guinea fowl as well as plenty of yams. We soon got the steam up, and my man speedily divested the fowl of its outer rigging by dipping it into some scalding water, and in about three-quarters of an hour we sat down to enjoy a sumptuous breakfast; after which, I expressed a wish to go over the town, which, although not a market-day, showed considerable bustle with only the usual daily trade.
This town contains a considerable number of workmen of different trades, all of whom seemed employed, except such of them as were occupied in reconnoitring the white stranger. The loom and the anvil are both of very simple construction here. The former is on the same principle as those in the Mahee and Dahoman countries, and in fact upon the same principle as our looms in England, though showing less workmanship. Their thread, though spun with the distaff, is very regular and strong. Bridles and saddles are manufactured here with considerable ingenuity; the dyeing of cloth and staining of leather are also well known here.
The natives seem contented and are in the enjoyment of plenty. But the extreme difference in the manners and habits as well as disposition of the natives of different towns is scarcely credible, though in the immediate vicinity of each other. I believe this depends a great deal upon their chiefs or rulers, whether they be tyrannical or mild in the administration of their government. Here I observed several beautiful crown-birds of large size, walking about the town, quite domesticated. They are certainly one of the most beautiful of the feathered tribe I ever saw. The soil here changed to a light sandy loam, resembling that between Abomey and Canamina.
We returned to the palaver-house, after our stroll round the town, followed by nearly all the natives, old and young. The caboceer, or chief, seemed pleased to have an opportunity of gratifying his people by the sight of a white man. At this town we obtained, to our satisfaction, some few articles of consumption in exchange for some of our own goods, namely, two fowls, some shalots, and a quantity of ground beans. We could not purchase a white fowl; for some reason unexplained they would only sell black ones. Now that we were secure of a supply of provision for this day and the following, we presented the chief with some trifling presents, and then proceeded on our journey rejoicing.
We were conducted out of the town by the chief and his people, with nearly the same ceremony as was observed when we entered. After we had passed the outer gate we parted from our friends, and proceeded onwards.
Nothing particular occurred worthy of observation, the country still bearing the same features as last described, until, at twenty-one miles we reached the large town of Quampanissa. This being the market-day, we entered the public or outer market without ceremony; but the atmosphere being close and moist from the great heat and evaporation, our march was fatiguing and oppressive, so that we were very glad to sit down, while I sent my Fellattah messenger to acquaint the chief, or gadadoo, as he is here called, with our arrival. During this time we were surrounded by nearly the whole of the people who were attending market, and so closely were we hemmed in that we were almost suffocated. In fact, those in the front of the crowd were involuntarily thrust almost upon us, from the pressure of those behind, in their anxiety to catch a sight of me, being to them a great curiosity. My horse and trappings seemed to create a great sensation.
In some large trees in this market-place was a cranery, the birds in which were composed of three different colours, and I believe of distinct species, namely, white, blue, and brown, like the sparrow-hawk. They are never allowed to be disturbed or molested in any way, either in the cranery or in its vicinity. In a short time the crowd dispersed with as much precipitation as they had collected, several people advancing with immense thongs of bullocks’ hides fastened to a handle, like a hunting-whip, and laying about them right and left indiscriminately upon all who came in their way. These, it appeared, were market-constables, who are employed by the king, or gadadoo, to preserve order, and protect property in the market. These people are paid by a tax upon a portion of every article of provision exposed. Upon other articles a duty is charged in cowries. These men were clearing a passage for their master to advance.
The procession was nearly the same as that I last described, with the exception of a stringed musical instrument of a different construction to any I had before observed. It is merely a plain piece of board, about twenty inches long and nine wide, with a piece of large bamboo cane laid across near each end, which forms the bridge, over which the strings, eight in number, pass. These strings are tightened or slackened in the same manner as our violin, but the instrument is slung from the shoulder, and is played guitar-fashion. The sound of this instrument appeared to me more musical than any native instrument I had yet heard, though near the coast I have seen instruments on a somewhat similar principle, being merely a small block of wood hollowed out, and a piece of hide with the hair shaven off covering over the concave part. This, when dry, becomes hard, and the strings are passed over two bridges, one at each end; but the sound of this instrument is not equal to that I have just described.
The chief conducted us into the inner market, where all was bustle and confusion. We marched into the centre, where seats were provided for us, although the chief and his people contented themselves with lying down during the palaver. We informed him of our purpose in visiting his country, and of our wish to overtake Terrasso-weea, for whom the chief professed great friendship. Here we cooked some of our provision, and remained to dine, the chief presenting us with some native ale (peto), but much staler than any I had before tasted. Probably this acidity was caused by its being kept too long. The articles exposed in this market were much the same as those I have previously mentioned, but the only native manufacture I saw was cloth.