After remaining about an hour and a half we again proceeded on our journey, and at thirty-one miles approached the town of Bidassoa; but it being late, and being uncertain how we might be received, we went a few hundred yards out of the path into a corn-plantation, and there encamped for the night. Here we kindled a fire, and again I put my small camp-kettle into requisition, and we had another feast, but not before the whole had been upset, and we had been compelled to go a considerable distance to procure more water.
This mishap was caused by my horse, which had always a particular propensity to paw the fire abroad whenever he was within reach of it. I had fastened it to my foot by its halter, but being near the fire, it upset the kettle and scraped the fire all abroad. We were now left to our own meditations, which were far preferable to being compelled to submit to the annoying ceremony always observed upon our entering a town. My people seemed also to enjoy the comfort of being alone. I had given each of my men a Jew’s harp of a large size, upon which they were desirous of learning to play. It gave me much pleasure to see them in such a contented mood; I therefore amused myself for a time in giving them lessons, till overcome with sleep. During the night we were obliged to keep up a good fire lest any of the wild beasts should feel inclined to make a meal of any of us. However, I enjoyed a tolerably good night’s repose, till awoke by my horse nibbling at my feet. I then aroused my men, who were still fast asleep, and our breakfast was soon prepared. I had made up my mind to avoid the town of Bidassoa, but upon consideration I deemed it more prudent to call, lest any unpleasant suspicions might arise owing to our seeming disrespect.
On the morning of the 28th July, we consequently entered the town, without being detained; the chief was already aware of our presence in his neighbourhood, and had already prepared himself to receive us. We were met at the outer gates by himself and retinue, and with nearly the same ceremony as was observed upon entering the two last towns. We were requested to follow him to the market, which is, in most instances, the place of palaver. Here we were supplied with water, and afterwards with palm-wine, but I felt not a little surprised to find the chief and his head men all partake of the same, for I had previously found the Mahomedans abstain from everything of a spirituous nature as intoxicating. In answer to my remarks respecting this difference, I was informed that this wine was original, and the production of one single tree, consequently was not rendered unclean by the addition or compound of any other substance; but they never partake of peto, though they do not interfere with Pagans for using such drink, neither do they interfere with the food of the latter.
Here certain days are strictly observed by not eating a black fowl; on other days the same is observed with respect to white fowls; neither will they eat anything which is killed previous to their seeing it. Many are so strict indeed that they will not eat anything unless killed by their own hands. I received at this place a present of a pair of turtle-doves, which are here abundant early in the mornings, but as soon as the sun becomes very powerful, they, as well as other birds, all disappear, and conceal themselves in the shade of the bushes and trees.
This town seems to supply many more than its own inhabitants with corn, their stores being considerable. Their manner of storing it is by building circular houses about ten feet high, in the bottom of which a hole of about six inches square is left to allow the grain to run out when wanted, which is done by drawing a slide which covers the hole.
The corn is poured in at the top, and is covered by a portable roof of frame-work similar to an umbrella, which is composed of palm and long grass, like reeds. This covering is removed at will to allow ventilation. These granaries are generally about eight feet in diameter, and are composed of clay or swish.[14]
Cloth of a good quality is manufactured in this town, and shea-butter is in abundance as at all other places. The inhabitants were very anxious to obtain a sight of a white man; but they considered my colour an exaggeration or omission of Nature, similar to some instances of white negroes whom I observed, though born of black parents. They seemed much amazed when told that all Europeans were white, like myself, but that some had hair as black as their own.
Earthen pots and a sort of thin brick or tile are made here for ornamenting certain parts of the dwellings of the richest inhabitants, and a great slave-market is also held, but not being market-day I saw no slaves exposed. In the inner markets, and even at the doors of the houses, goods are exposed every day for sale. Tobacco, which was quite common in the Mahee country, is rarely seen here.
After remaining about an hour and a half, and giving away some needles and thimbles, we informed the chief that we wished to depart on our journey. He pressed us to stop another day, but I expressed my anxiety to proceed. He said he was already aware of my being in quest of Terrasso-weea, who seemed to be a great favourite in this place also. We were then escorted to the outer gates, where, after the priests had repeated some part of the Koran as an intercession for our success and safety on our journey, we marched from Bidassoa, bearing N. 23° W., and varying during our day’s journey to 45° and 10° W. The land now became uneven and more rugged, with blocks of rock of a nature resembling slate, different to any thing I had before observed.
At four miles we reached a small kroom, where I observed very fine cattle, the land rising gently to the northwards, with shea-butter and palm-trees, and a small river running to the south-west. There was also abundance of very large buffaloes. A small market is held daily at this kroom, which is chiefly dependent upon travellers, being near the crossings of several paths leading to different large market-towns. The principal articles sold are kolla-nuts, with several sorts of ground beans and nuts, calavansas, and manioc-root, as well as kankie, ready cooked. Palm-wine is also sold here at a low rate to the natives.