There appeared to be but little manufacture in this place, except a few trifling articles of iron, and some wooden bowls, rudely carved and ornamented. We only halted here for a short time. At seven miles we passed through thick wood and swampy soil scarcely passable. Fruit-trees of various sorts were now very abundant and in full bearing, and very delicious and refreshing wild grapes hung in clusters over our heads: these were the green grape. The gwaba and yellow fig also abounded, with many other fruits with which I was unacquainted.
At ten miles we arrived at a kroom of about four hundred inhabitants. Here we saw a large number of horses of a small description. They much resembled our Hampshire foresters in shape, though a little finer breed. They were sold in this market at the rate of four heads of cowries, equal to four Spanish dollars on the west coast of Africa, but are of much greater value in the interior. Here we halted for an hour, and were tolerably well received by the caboceer, or head man, who seemed very ready to gratify our curiosity by showing us round his village.
The breed of cattle here is extremely handsome, and the sheep considerably larger than those in the Kong Mountains. We were shown two very large elephants, which had been taken near the swamp, where we were told they much abound, though we did not observe any in crossing it. I noticed a great number of female slaves, many of whom were very handsome; they also appeared remarkably cheerful and pleasant in their manner. Nightcaps are knitted by the natives in a similar manner to those in Great Britain. The loom is also plied here, but not to a great extent. Guinea fowls are very abundant, both in a wild and tame state; partridges are also plentiful in the neighbourhood. Here, as in nearly all other towns in this country, the kolla-nut seems a favourite article of commerce.
We fortunately procured some dried venison, which is delicious in flavour when made into soup, and seasoned with their different vegetables, amongst which I may mention the chili as invariably their principal seasoning. We gave in exchange for the venison treble its value. Their method of drying is simple: it is cut into pieces, dried before a large fire, and held occasionally in the smoke of the iron-wood, which, from its chemical properties, is considered preferable to any other sort of wood. Salt is never used, either in drying fish or venison. We were, as usual, escorted out of this kroom by the gadadoo, and again commenced our march.
The soil was again different, being of a moist sandy clay, and very productive. Here I observed several large sycamore-trees, as well as an ash, which was more rough in the bark than that of England. The beautiful acacia is invariably an ornamental plant in the towns and villages. As we passed I observed some very curious grasses, different to any I had previously observed, as well as heaths, and shrubs bearing fruits of various forms and flavour, but all of a yellow colour. They were very delicious and refreshing.
At twenty miles we arrived at the small town of Kosow. This is a pleasant little town, fenced in the usual way. Near the gates we observed a number of females busily employed in thrashing the Guinea corn on some flat rocks, by the side of a small lake or pond, but upon our approach they fled precipitately, and ran into the town. We remained, as customary, at the outer gate till the caboceer had been made aware of our presence. During the time we remained here several persons came within a few yards of us, apparently to obtain a sight of us; but immediately I turned my head to look at them, both males and females made a hasty retreat. The males were all armed both with bow and spear.
In a short time the gadadoo made his appearance on horseback. His little horse was richly caparisoned, with a very curious pad or saddle, covering nearly the whole of the horse’s back. The border of the shabrack was ornamented with letters or characters, apparently of the Persian or Arabic. Here we were received with great solemnity, although the venerable chief never suffered a smile to appear on his countenance until the ceremony was over. We were then led, as usual, into the palaver place, where we were supplied with seats carved out of the solid wood. Here we were strictly interrogated respecting our business in that country, to which I replied as I had to others. As usual, my assumed knowledge of Terrasso-weea seemed to give tolerable satisfaction; but a proposition was made that I should remain at Kosow until a messenger should be forwarded to Terrasso-weea, with a desire that he should meet me at Kosow. This proposal, however, I strongly objected to as likely to give offence.
My opposition to his proposal did not altogether seem to meet the chief’s approval. He next pretended to doubt whether we ought to be allowed to pass through the country without the great king of the country being made aware of our intentions. Again, however, the old man failed in his object, for my Fellattah soldier informed him that the great king of his country had already been made aware of our presence, and had also sanctioned our march through his dominions.
Being thus frustrated at all points, the old man demanded what white man was going to dash him, or what present he was going to make him. In return, I asked him what he intended to give me as a stranger visiting his country. He answered, that no white man had ever been in that country before, and it was very probable that no other might ever come again, and he should like to have something to hand down to his descendants as a memorial of a white man having once been there. Gain seemed his only object, and his wish to forward a messenger to Terrasso-weea was merely to detain me in order to have a chance of obtaining presents. I gave him some new gilt buttons, and a large Jew’s harp, as well as some needles, and two thimbles. I played several tunes upon the Jew’s harp, with which he seemed much delighted.
He then introduced me to his harem, which was composed of about one hundred and twenty females of considerable beauty, being much fairer than any I had seen since leaving Abomey. Their features and figures were very good, though their hair was woolly, but much longer than I had before seen of the woolly tribes. These women were all enclosed within a wall of about three feet and a half high. Some of them seemed gratified, while others seemed quite the reverse; but the chief’s females were not the only fair women in the place. The generality of the inhabitants were equally as fair. I was offered my choice of one for forty-two thousand cowries; but I informed the seller that I was not at present in want of any slaves, or a wife. This surprised him very much, for he declared that he himself could not live with less than twenty wives, but that he had a very great many more. He picked out his principal or favourite wife, to whom he introduced me, doubtless with a view of obtaining some presents for her; but I could not understand the hint, as I found my little stock fast decreasing.