The country now opened, and the path, clear of bush, became less irksome to the traveller. I observed here that the grass had been recently burnt, and inquiring of my guide the reason of it, was informed that the whole surface was set on fire twice annually, to the extent of many square miles. This is done for the double purpose of destroying the reptiles and insects, as well as the decayed vegetable, and also to annihilate the vegetative powers of the shea butter-tree, which grows here in great abundance. At seven miles the path changed its direction to the eastward. The land was level, but exhibited no cultivation, nor any appearance of human habitation. At eight miles and a half a valley opened upon us on a gentle slope, with a brook running to the eastward.
At ten miles we crossed another valley of greater depth, called by my guide, Dimodicea-takoo. On each side of the path were numerous aloes of various descriptions. The aloes which have a mark on the leaves like a partridge’s wing, were at this time in seed. My servant Maurice now begun to complain very much of pain in his head and loins, and seemed quite exhausted, although he had ridden my horse ever since I had crossed the Zoa.
At twelve miles and a half we crossed another valley and brook, running eastward, named Kootokpway. At thirteen miles and a half we reached a stupendous mountain, called Gbowelley. Here the path suddenly changed to NN.W., passing near to the base of the mountain, which forms the western extremity of a range of less magnitude than this. At its foot, and at its western extremity, is a small kroom, of about two hundred inhabitants. It is very pleasantly situated on the plain or division between Gbowelley and another chain, or rather crescent of mountains, at a few miles farther to the westward, commanding a view of high mountains to the northward. This sudden and delightful change seemed to inspire all of us with fresh animation and spirits; for though we had passed over several tracts of country partaking somewhat of the character of hills, we were now almost on a sudden directly amidst a number of stupendous mountains of great magnitude and singularity of character, at once romantic and pleasing. The old caboceer was warned of our approach by the noise of our drums, and was close to the path awaiting our arrival with plenty of kankie, water, and peto for our refreshment, which were very acceptable to all of us: for my own part, I felt quite prepared for a hearty meal, without scrutinizing it. Here the air felt refreshing and pure, and rushed in a current between the mountains.
The old caboceer was of commanding figure, about five feet ten inches in height, of pleasing countenance, and of quick and intelligent manner. He was a native of Dahomey, and in great confidence with the King. He took pleasure in boasting that he had seen me at Dahomey during the custom or holiday, having been invited to the latter place purposely to receive orders from his Majesty respecting my treatment when I should arrive in the Mahee country. He had despatched orderlies to every town occupied by a caboceer, to deliver the King’s orders respecting me. It was now that my suppositions were realized respecting the kindness shown me on my journey, viz. that the King had given orders as to every particular, however trifling, respecting my treatment and the presents I was to receive. The caboceer is named Hah, and the old man was sent here from Dahomey at the time of its surrender to the Dahomans.
The inhabitants of these mountains are called Mahees, and occupy part of the country of that name. They made a determined resistance against the Dahomans, and held out for seven moons, or months, having possession of the mountains, and concealing themselves in the fissures and caves, advancing and retreating in turn according to circumstances. Though their numbers were great, yet the caution and skill of their besiegers prevailed; for they had the advantage of good firearms, and were able to avail themselves of the crops and cattle on the plains at the base of the mountains. The Dahomans always choose the harvest season for besieging a mountain; and although the steepness of these mountains renders the ascent of a besieging army impossible, they can so entirely blockade the occupants from all communication with the plain, as soon either to starve them to death, or compel them to surrender to their enemies, at discretion.
These mountaineers never think of reserving any of their corn or other produce as stores, so that they invariably become an easy prey, though in this country they can raise four crops in the year. The Mahees use the bow and arrow, the King of Dahomey forbidding the transport of firearms through his kingdom from the coast. The old caboceer and my guide both informed me, that, during the seven months’ war in Gbowelley and the neighbouring mountains to the eastward, four hundred caboceers were killed, so that, allowing only a proportion of one hundred individuals to each caboceer, at least forty thousand men must have perished.
After a great deal of remonstrance and persuasion with the caboceer and my captain, a promise was given that I should be allowed to examine the mountain, but upon condition that I would take my shoes off, so that I should incur less risk in climbing up the steep fissures, which are not wide enough to admit of more than one man in width. The old caboceer took the lead in ascending, giving me his hand the whole of the way up; and my own caboceer kept close behind me, fearing lest I might slip. In our ascent I observed many very large cotton-trees in the fissures, with scarcely any soil to support them. Monkeys were very numerous amongst the branches.
After gaining the top, in a sort of hollow or basin, on one side of the dome-shaped summit, were the remains apparently of a large town. This place was truly the picture of desolation, and the ravages of war and famine presented themselves on all sides. Hundreds of human skulls, of different sizes, were still to be seen; as also the skulls of sheep, goats, and oxen. No doubt the latter named animals had been used as food by the people whose remains we saw around us, the greater part of whom had been starved to death rather than surrender. Many of the soldiers of my guard had been on service during this siege, and described the scene on ascending as of the most awful description. The bodies of the dead in a putrid state were, it appears, mixed with those who were still alive, but unable to move; many were wounded with bullets, whose limbs were rotting off and covered with vermin;[1] and the air was so pestiferous, that many of the Dahomans died from its effects. The vultures tore the bodies of the poor wounded people, even while they were yet alive. In many of the small fissures I observed the remains of various domestic quadrupeds, together with human bones, very probably carried there by the vulture or eagle, also natives of this mountain, as well as the common fox, the panther, and large hyæna, or patakoo, the name given to it by the natives.
This mountain is formed by horizontal beds about forty feet deep, composed of gneiss or granite, each bed differing in quality from another in the proportions of feltspar and mica. It rises at an angle of 23°. All the mountains in this neighbourhood rise abruptly, and are very steep,—in fact, on some sides, they are nearly perpendicular, the plain in most cases being truly level to the very base of the mountains.
After descending, and returning to the place where I left my party refreshing themselves, I found many of them in a partial state of intoxication, from too freely indulging in the use of the peto. My poor man Maurice, induced by a high state of fever, had attempted to allay his thirst by copiously partaking of the same liquor. After giving some small presents to the caboceer and principal people, we resumed our journey. Just as we began our march, the rain descended in torrents. Fortunately, while at Whydah, I had made myself a waterproof cloak, which I now gave to my poor white man, who seemed a little revived after his rest and the stimulating effects of the peto. He proposed walking; but I knew that his revival was only temporary, and compelled him to ride.