The path was now very deeply worn with the heavy rains, a stream pouring down and washing all the soil from amongst the stones, leaving only the iron stone or ore, which rendered walking very unpleasant. The country was level, with the exception of a gentle declivity in the direction in which we were now proceeding (NN.W.). The plain at intervals was studded with large and small blocks of granite, some round, others angular, but the foundation chiefly iron, which I have observed in many places, only covered with a thin surface of vegetable soil of a loamy nature. The surface of the iron is quite smooth, and resembles our pavement of asphalte in London. In some places the iron rock is entirely bare, and has every appearance of having run to its own level while in a state of fusion.
The soil now changed to a rich sand and clay, very productive. I observed some fine specimens of the twisted rock, but without any mica in its composition, being more compact and solid than the composition of the last-named mountain, and of a similar character to marble, of blue, black, and white mixture. Here we were again met by the caboceer and a number of his people, belonging to a small kroom at some considerable distance from the path. They brought us plenty of kankie and peto. We again stopped for some time, and made inquiry respecting the neighbourhood, but I invariably found it impossible to obtain any information respecting any other locality than their own immediate vicinity, unless from some of the travelling merchants. After giving a small present, which is always necessary on such occasions, we resumed our journey. Close to the path were several mineral springs, powerfully impregnated with iron. These springs are permanent. This country is beautifully watered, having a great many springs of various qualities, and numerous small brooks.
The rains are more regular here than near the coast, and thunder is much less frequent. No doubt the extreme fertility of the soil in this locality is attributable to the good supply of water from the regular rains and springs, for four crops of corn I was told are obtained in one year.
At nineteen miles and a half, bearing or direction of the path, we changed to east, and crossed the brook Halee, which runs eastward, with water sufficient to propel machinery of any ordinary power. At twenty miles and a half, Mount Weesee, bearing west, and Lusee to the east. At twenty-one miles we came upon a brook called Agbowa, with abundance of water. Here the land is well cultivated. This is the first place in Africa where I have observed the use of manure in agriculture. Some Guinea corn, which is planted in drill, measured ten feet in height, the maize about eight feet. Here are large herds of very fine cattle, sheep, goats, and pigs; the Guinea fowl and common domestic fowl, as well as partridges of great size, are also abundant. The turtle-dove abounds here, as in most other places in the vicinity of towns and villages.
At twenty-one miles and a half we arrived at Paweea, a very large town, composed chiefly of low square huts, very neat and clean, with several large markets. At the entrance of the town we were met by the caboceer and his soldiers, part of whom were armed with muskets, and accoutred in the same manner as my own guard; the rest were armed with the bow and arrow. Paweea is well situated, and commands a view of the surrounding country to a great distance. The atmosphere is much clearer here than on the coast, or even at Abomey, so that the surrounding mountains are very distinctly observable, and minor objects perfectly seen at a very considerable distance, in comparison with the coast.
The caboceer, and his principal attendants and men of office, led us into the principal market-place within the walls, which is held under several large trees, covering about three quarters of an acre. Here we seated ourselves, and the usual complimentary palaver of welcoming the King’s stranger to the town of Paweea followed, and a large calabash of water was offered to me, after it had been tasted. Then the rum was passed round amongst all my people. After this indispensable ceremony was concluded, we were directed to my lodgings, which were not far distant.
The houses here are superior to those of many other towns, consequently I had comfortable quarters for myself and people. The caboceer was a fine, stout, square-built man, and very agreeable both in person and manner, but with a very singularly-formed head above the temples, narrowing acutely to the upper part of the skull. This gave his head the appearance of having been squeezed or pressed. He seemed, however, possessed of more than the ordinary sense of his countrymen, and appeared to be in every way anxious to accommodate and please us. Plenty of excellent provisions were soon brought to my apartments for myself and people.
After we had finished our meal, the caboceer and several of the principal members of his retinue came to spend an hour with us. Upon this occasion I ordered some rum to be unpacked and distributed amongst them. I was much gratified to find the caboceer enter so fully into conversation, and make so many shrewd inquiries respecting England, our manufactures and laws. He also seemed very communicative, and willing to give me every information in his power respecting his own country. He had been in command during the late war, and had of course travelled a considerable distance beyond his own locality.
In this town peto is made entirely from the Guinea corn, not as on the coast, from the maize or Indian corn. It is a very agreeable liquor, and less sweet than that made from the Indian corn. After conversing about two hours, the caboceer withdrew, to allow me to repose, which was very agreeable to me, for I was very tired.
July 12th.—Early in the morning a messenger arrived from the caboceer with his cane, which he presented to me with his master’s compliments, desiring to know if I were quite well, and how I slept. Soon after the messenger had left me, the caboceer came, preceding his commissariat train, with an immense quantity of provision in large and small calabashes, containing beef, pork, mutton, fowl, kankie, dabadab, and a delicious dish made from a vegetable called occro, which when boiled forms a gelatinous substance, and is very strengthening. This dish is seasoned with palm oil and pepper. The provisions in all amounted to twenty bushels. The good old caboceer of Gbowelley, whom we left yesterday, sent some of his people after us this morning with a present of one goat, three fowls, and a large calabash of kankie. This was an acknowledgment for some presents, which I had given to him when I left him. The carriers and messengers were quite delighted when I presented each of them with some needles and thimbles, and returned home rejoicing.