It is always considered consistent with court etiquette here, as I have previously stated, that a stranger visiting his Majesty should arrive and depart from the capital as nearly as possible when the sun is at its meridian, consequently various excuses were made to detain me till that period, when I was escorted out of the town by my excellent old friend Mayho, and many more of the principal men, with a band of music, till we crossed the bridge over the moat outside the town walls. Here I was given up to the charge of the three caboceers before mentioned.
About two hundred yards from the gates is a fetish-house, in passing which all persons are compelled to dismount, if carried, and walk past a certain distance; but the King had very kindly forwarded an order to the fetish-man, to allow me to ride, on account of my lameness, at which every man seemed much amazed, saying that no man ever rode over the same ground before.
I was very much surprised to see one of my fowls tied by the feet lying at the door of the fetish-house, which of course led to some inquiries. I was informed that while the man carrying my fowls was passing the place, this cock had crowed, and consequently he had become the property of the head fetishman. The man who carried the basket had not proceeded farther, but waited till I arrived, to explain the matter. I made some objections to submit to such a ridiculous custom, whereupon a messenger was immediately sent to the King, who sent an order to give up the cock, and also intimated that it was not his wish to compel an Englishman to observe black man’s laws, remarking that Englishmen can do no wrong.
When we arrived at Canamina we overtook two of my carriers, who, though big, strong-looking men, were quite exhausted, and unable to proceed. Had I been furnished with female carriers, I should have found no difficulty. However, I hired an assistant carrier, before I could get the men to proceed. After a tiresome ride, we arrived at Ahgrimah. When dismounting I was quite exhausted, and my leg and foot swollen so much, that my cloth boot had burst, and I suffered very much for upwards of two hours from pain in my wound. Here I was much amused with the pigeons which I had brought from the Kong Mountains. Though I had three different specimens, all rare, they had now become so much reconciled to each other as to be all of one family, as it were.
Whenever we halted for the night, and they were released from the gourd in which they were carried, they never attempted to leave me, but kept walking to and fro, near the spot where I lay, till they were fed; and when darkness came on, they huddled themselves close to my person. I was very much annoyed here on account of several of my carriers not arriving, particularly as my camp-kettle had not come. I managed, however, to get a meal from the natives.
Aug. 30th.—As soon as I awoke I inquired after my luggage, and found that two of my principal boxes had not arrived. Whereupon I despatched a trusty messenger, sent by Mayho to accompany me to Whydah to carry back my coat, which I had promised that excellent old man, being the only thing I now possessed worth his acceptance. He hastened back to Abomey, to report the delay to his master, who had furnished the carriers. Mayho immediately sent fresh men with orders to punish the villains who had hung back, as, he said, he had himself examined each of their loads, and found them all considerably under the regulated weight for carriers.
At last the men arrived, accompanied by my messenger and fresh carriers, late in the afternoon. Immediately on their arrival, the offenders were brought before the caboceers for judgment; and, after a short palaver, they were sentenced to be beaten with a stick as many times as I should deem sufficient. Two men were sent into the bush for some rods, who soon returned with five, about one yard in length and about the thickness of a man’s middle finger. The offenders were then ordered to kneel down before me to receive their punishment; but although they had been the cause of much uneasiness to me, I could not consent to such a severe mode of punishment, particularly as all my Dahoman people had hitherto conducted themselves well; I therefore ordered them both to be released, for they had already been pinioned. The poor fellows were very grateful for this act of kindness: the caboceers also were much gratified, and my day’s detention was beneficial in resting my lame leg.
CHAPTER XIII.
Akpway—Superstition of the Natives—Singular proceeding of my Bullock-Drivers—Arrival at Whydah—Kind Reception by Don Francisco de Suza—Kindness of all the Merchants—Parting Interview with M. de Suza—Sail for Cape Coast—Terror of the Mahee Girl (presented to the Queen) at the Roughness of the Sea—Arrival at Cape Coast—Kindness of Mr. Hutton—Dr. Lilley—Recover from my Fever—Kindness of the Wesleyan Missionaries—General Character of Africans—Hints with regard to Educating them—Observations on the Manners and Customs of the Dahoman, Mahee, and Fellattah Countries—Enlightened Conduct of the King of Dahomey—The Dahomans—Trade of Dahomey—Paganism—The Mahees—The Kong Mountains—Sail for England.
Aug. 31st.—We marched early in the morning, and about mid-day passed through Akpway, and rested for half an hour, partaking of some refreshment; and after marching for another hour and a half we arrived at Whyboe, where we halted for the night.