Sept. 1st.—In passing through a thick wood, a tree had either fallen across the path, or been felled down purposely, so that it with its thick branches entirely blocked up the way. Here the whole of my party were at a stand-still, and could not be prevailed upon to remove the tree so as to enable them to pass, declaring that the fetish had placed it there for a certain purpose, unknown to us. However, it was fortunately only a small tree; I therefore dismounted, and removed it sufficiently to allow us to pass. At this the men seemed somewhat ashamed of their credulity; but before we had proceeded much farther, a more formidable obstacle presented itself, which almost convinced me that some old fetish-man had been exerting his wizard powers to play me some unlucky cantrip. The head of a young bull, apparently newly cut off, was placed in the middle of the path. Upon a close inspection I found it to be the head of one of my own bullocks, which was reported sick the day previously to my marching from Abomey.
Nothing more worthy of notice occurred till we approached Whydah, when, at a little distance from that town, we met the men, who had driven my bullocks, returning. I asked them respecting it, and why the head was placed in the path. They replied, that as the animal could proceed no farther, they thought it best to kill it, and dispose of the meat in the most advantageous manner; but lest I should suppose the animal had not been dead, the head had been left in the path, to allow me the satisfaction of ocular demonstration.
Upon our arrival in Whydah, according to custom, I reported my return to the caboceer, or avoga, as he is called here, who received me very cordially. He then accompanied me to old Don Francisco, who had so kindly exerted his influence with the King on my behalf in furthering the objects of my travels into the interior. Unfortunately the old man was suffering much from rheumatism, and had for several days refused to see any one, but he readily received me. He cordially congratulated me on my success, declaring that nothing could have afforded him more gratification than the news of my grand and generous reception by the King at Abomey, and assuring me that he should be at all times ready to assist any Englishman by all means in his power. I asked him for a bill of the goods and articles he had furnished me for presents to the King; but as yet the generous old man has never furnished me with any, though they must have cost him about one hundred pounds. He also begged me to let him know how he could further serve me, telling me that anything in his extensive stores was at my service.
Owing to M. de Suza’s severe indisposition, I made but a short stay, and hastened to the English fort, where I found many old friends anxiously waiting to see me and welcome me back. Mr. R. Hanson, agent for Mr. Hutton of Cape Coast, with whom I lived previously to my journey into the interior, gave me a very cordial welcome, and rendered me every assistance in his power, while suffering from fever, after my return to Whydah. I also received great kindness from Mr. James Hanson, of Ahguay, who was on business at Whydah, and, in fact, I experienced every mark of civility and kindness from the gentlemen, Americans, French, Spanish, and Portuguese, with whom I became acquainted during my residence in Whydah.
My state of health was but little better for some time, though the wound in my leg seemed to improve in condition. A few days after my return to Whydah, the Jane of London, Captain Lee, Commander, arrived in the roadstead, to take in goods for Mr. Hutton. The captain had suffered much from fever but was now slowly recovering. To him I feel indebted for much kindness. He afforded me, with my stock of animals, a free passage to Cape Coast, for which place we were to sail on the 20th of September.
The day previous to my sailing, my old friend, De Suza, sent for me to bid me good-bye. He was very ill in bed, and scarcely able to speak. He begged me to let his agent know if I should be in want of anything from his stores, and assured me that whatever I might require was quite at my service. I was, however, already under so many obligations to him that I declined accepting anything further, but again asked him for my bill, with which he declined to furnish me.
At parting he shook me by the hand, and in a low whisper bade me a long good-bye, with every wish for my future happiness. I could not help feeling regret at that moment that such a man should be coupled with traffic so abominable as that of buying and selling human beings; for he universally bears the character of the most generous and humane man on the coast of Africa, which character I am also bound to give him so far as I am concerned.
Early on the morning of the 20th September, I went on board the Jane; Mr. R. Hanson kindly rendering me every assistance, by furnishing carriers for my luggage and cattle to the beach which is distant two miles. The morning was unfavourable on account of the heavy rains. The little Mahee girl in my charge had never before seen the sea, and consequently felt much alarm. She could scarcely be urged to go into the canoe, though I told her she was going back to her Abomey mother, of whom she was very fond. Unfortunately the sea was very high and the surf heavy, and though the canoemen displayed great skill in managing their boat, yet a sea passed completely over us from bow to stern, filling it, which, but for the buoyancy of the wood of which it is formed, must have sunk. However, so long as the canoe can be kept end on the surf, the danger is not great. The canoes are all made from the cotton-tree.
The little girl, who was upon her knees in the bottom of the canoe, had certainly little cause to be pleased with a sea life, and is very likely to remember her first sea voyage for a long time. As soon as the little creature was able, for she was almost suffocated by the surf, she called out for her Abomey mother.
We soon got the water baled out and reached the Jane without another washing. Captain Lee kindly offered me dry clothing, but the greater part of my luggage was not yet on board, consequently I remained on deck till all was safe, with the exception of a few articles which undoubtedly were stolen, but I may congratulate myself that I was not a loser to a greater extent.