The ship soon got under weigh, and was shortly afterwards boarded by H.M.S. Brig Ranger, who kindly offered me medical aid. On the following day I had a severe attack of fever, but, through Captain Lee’s kind attention, I suffered comparatively little, though from so many recent attacks I was extremely weak and reduced in flesh. Our progress was very slow, owing to the foul winds and strong head currents. On the following day the boats of the Flying Fish, English war-brig, boarded us, and remained on board nearly the whole of the day, preparing letters for England, for which the Jane was shortly to sail.
On the 22d the brig herself bore down upon us. She was on a sharp look-out for a crack slaver, which was expected daily on her first trip, of which the commander had received private information. This vessel I afterwards learned was captured by the Flying Fish, in spite of the slaver’s boasted sailing qualities, and fighting captain, of whom they much vaunted, but they generally fall short when opposed to British (pirates, as the slave-dealers term them) ships-of-war.
On the 27th we anchored off Cape Coast Castle, and were soon recognised by the officers of the fort and other gentlemen merchants of the town, who are generally on the look-out for fresh arrivals. I was met upon landing by the officers of the garrison, and Mr. Hutton, who had always been a very kind friend to me. The officers invited me to become an honorary member of their mess, though all but one were entire strangers to me, having been changed during my absence from Cape Coast. I returned, however, to my old quarters with Mr. Hutton, where every attention and kindness were shown me during the remaining time I was on the coast, during the last few weeks of which I suffered much from fever and ague, accompanied with diarrhœa, which nearly terminated my earthly career. During this latter period I was invited into the Castle by the acting governor, Dr. Lilley, who was also Colonial Surgeon.
I was there under his immediate treatment, which was no doubt beneficial, though I found that the use of strong medicines acted powerfully upon my constitution, and therefore determined to be guided entirely by the dictates of nature. My attacks were both violent and frequent; every second day for some time, the interval gradually increasing. As soon as I found the ague about to commence I lay down and covered myself with as many clothes as I could obtain, and so soon as the shivering ceased, of course violent fever succeeded, accompanied with intolerable thirst. I always arranged to have a quantity of water placed near my bedside; and generally drank half-a-pint every five minutes. Thirteen or fourteen half-pints generally produced copious perspiration, and the fever soon decreased. The only effect I experienced from numerous repetitions of this treatment was weakness, probably from excessive perspiration. I would never recommend bathing in cold water while subject to attacks of fever and ague, as I found by a series of experiments in my own person: it is very likely to strengthen the fever and ague. I make no pretensions to advise medically, but merely state facts from personal experience, considering it a duty to my fellow-creatures, to state anything which might be beneficial to mankind while in that pestilential climate.
I must not omit to mention the kindness of the Rev. T. B. Freeman, and other members of the Wesleyan mission established on the coast, and also of the Rev. William Hanson, the Colonial chaplain, as well as his amiable lady. I owe a debt of gratitude to the whole of the merchants on the coast, whether native or British, for I experienced the utmost kindness from all of them; and although I have been bound to speak unfavourably of the uncivilized African, it must be remembered that all barbarous nations are similar as far as regards honesty and industry. I trust, however, that no uncharitable conclusion may be drawn from the plain statement of facts which fell under my own observation. It is void of all prejudice, for my belief is that were Africans educated, and their morals properly attended to, they would become an example to countries who have for centuries enjoyed the advantages of civilization. To many of them I must confess myself under considerable obligations, which I shall ever remember with feelings of gratitude; though I am convinced, that a partial education, by merely reading the Scriptures, (unaccompanied by any school-books, such as books of history or mechanics,) more particularly when the meaning is not thoroughly explained to them in their own language, is of comparatively little benefit.
Our missionaries have no doubt many difficulties to contend with: first, because the English language is entirely new to the natives, so that besides learning to pronounce the words, they have also to learn the meaning of each word. Another drawback is, that when out of school the greater part of the children are mixed up with the uneducated population, and never use the English language except when in school. They are also exposed to every vice in practice, so that in many instances a partial education is only the means of enabling them to become more perfect in villany.
I cannot help thinking that if missionary schools were situated in some healthy situation at a little distance from the towns, and schools of industry were established in conjunction with them, the most beneficial results would follow. The boys intended to become mechanics should be selected according to their abilities, and be allowed to make choice of their trade. The school would in a short time support itself, and the variety of occupations would relieve the monotony of instruction in one branch of education alone.
At present, when the young men have obtained an imperfect education, that is to say, a knowledge of reading and writing, with a slight knowledge of figures, they consider themselves of too much importance to accept a menial employment, and being unacquainted with any trade, their first object is to seek to become agents or clerks to our European merchants, the number of whom are comparatively few, and employment consequently cannot be given to many. In many instances these parties obtain goods on credit, either from the resident merchants or from the American trading captains, and then consider themselves to be great men, and that they must keep up an establishment, which they frequently do, considerably beyond their means. The result of this is, that in a short time they find themselves involved in debt beyond any chance of redemption. The value of the goods is then soon squandered away, and the would-be merchant is compelled to retire into the bush, or to some other place of secrecy, where the rest of his life is spent in swindling and villany.
Before concluding my Narrative I would make a few observations upon the manners and customs of the Dahoman, Mahee, and Fellattah countries, with the amendments made in his own territories by the present intelligent and generous King of Dahomey. The most important of these is the abolition, in a great measure, of human sacrifices. These are now only tolerated in the execution of culprits condemned to death for offences of the gravest character. The King has entirely abolished the power of his caboceers to make human sacrifices, and only allows them to sacrifice the lower animals. Next I may mention his entire revision of the criminal as well as petty laws of his kingdom; and the establishment of a court of appeal at Abomey in cases of dissatisfaction or injustice. The King has also much improved the condition of the Dahoman army. The whole of the Mahee country is now subject to Dahomey.
The Dahomans are generally a fine intelligent race of people, both the male and female. Guinea worm, or elephantiasis, does not exist in either the Dahoman, Mahee, or Fellatah countries. The average height of the Dahoman males is about five feet nine inches, and they are well proportioned. They are much more industrious than the natives of Whydah, or other parts on the coast, and are good farmers, and take much care in rearing stock. There are several Moors resident in Abomey, but whether voluntarily or not, I was unable to learn; but should suppose they were originally prisoners, from the fact of their refusing information respecting their migration. In fact, individuals from all the tribes of Central Africa may be found in Abomey.