Narrative of a Second Expedition to the Shores of the Polar Sea, in the Years 1825, 1826, and 1827

by John Franklin; Sir John Richardson

Previous to the officers leaving London, Dr. Fitton, President of the Geological Society, had the kindness to devote much of his time to their instruction in geology; and having furnished them with a portable collection for the purpose of reference on the voyage, Dr. Richardson, when he had leisure, explained these specimens, weekly, to the party, and assisted them in reading on this science, which proved a most agreeable and useful recreation to us all.

Some of the preceding remarks refer to a period of our residence later than that which I am about to enter upon; but I thought it best to insert them here, that the mention of them might not interrupt the narrative of occurrences which I shall now resume.

Thursday, 8th.On September 8th, two men were sent off to Slave Lake, in a canoe, with a despatch, containing an account of our proceedings, addressed to His Majesty's Secretary of State for the Colonies; and as we expected letters from England, by the way of Hudson's Bay, they directed to await their arrival at Slave Lake. There was almost constant rain from the 11th to the 14th, which much retarded the work going on out of doors, and particularly the construction of an observatory, which we were desirous of completing as soon as possible, that the magnetical observations might be commenced. We found employment, however, in whitewashing and fitting up the interior of the different houses. The 15th proving fine, we established a meridian line, and ascertained the variation by each of the compasses.

Tuesday, 20th.Beaulieu returned with his family, the Chipewyan hunters, and some Dog-Ribs, bringing a supply of dried meat, rein-deer tongues, and fat, sufficient for a month's consumption, which was reserved for use when the fishing should become unproductive. These men reported, that at the time they quitted the northern shores of the lake, the deer were retiring towards this quarter; which intelligence accounted for the Indians having killed four within a day's march from the house.

Friday, 23rd.The chimney of the last of the buildings being completed this morning, the flag-staff erected, and all the men assembled, we commemorated these events by the festivities usual on the opening of a new establishment in this country. The first part of the ceremony was to salute the flag; the men having drawn themselves up in line, and the women and children, and all the Indians resident at the fort, being disposed in groups by their side, a deputation came to solicit the presence of the officers. When we appeared, we found our guns ornamented with blue ribbons, and we were requested to advance and fire at a piece of money which was fastened to the flag-staff. The men then fired two volleys and gave three hearty cheers, after which Wilson the piper struck up a lively tune, and placing himself at the head of his companions, marched with them round to the entrance of the hall, where they drank to His Majesty's health, and to the success of the Expedition. In the evening the hall was opened for a dance, which was attended by the whole party, dressed in their gayest attire. The dancing was kept up with spirit to the music of the violin and bagpipes, until daylight.

Monday, 26th.These entertainments over, Beaulieu and the hunters were despatched to the chase, and they soon added two moose-deer to our store.

Tuesday, 27th.There had been much rain in the course of the preceding week, and the temperature was generally mild, but a fall of snow took place on the 27th. Some Dog-Ribs came to the fort on that day with the produce of their autumnal hunt, which was very inconsiderable, but they rendered good service to us by taking away with them several of their relations, who had been subsisting on our bounty for some time. After their departure there only remained one man of the tribe, who, being afflicted with rheumatic fever, was retained under the care of Dr. Richardson. Warm clothing was provided for him, and a comfortable leathern lodge was erected for himself and family.

October, 1st.The month of October commenced with frost and snow, and the party were now furnished with fur caps, leathern mittens and trowsers, and the rest of their warm winter-clothing. This day we completed the erection of the observatory, and adjusted an instrument to the magnetic meridian, for the purpose of observing the variations of the needle.

Tuesday, 11th.Much snow fell on the night of the 7th, and on the 11th the small lake was firmly frozen over, and the ground in the same state. All the migratory birds being now gone, except a few ducks, which still lingered in the open water of Bear Lake, we considered this day to be the first of the winter. It was remarkably clear and fine, and we hailed the commencement of this season with a degree of pleasure, from its contrast with the wet unsettled weather which marks the close of summer. A few clouds passing over the sun's disk, produced an instantaneous depression of ten degrees of the mercury in a thermometer exposed to the sun's rays. The atmospherical refraction was remarkably strong at this time. We had repeated opportunities, in the course of the winter, of observing it to be greatest in similar states of the atmosphere.

The boats were now secured for the winter in a sheltered place, and screened as much as possible from the effects of the wind and snow drift, by a strong fence made of boughs and branches.