Friday, 14th.We were surprised on the 14th by the arrival of two Canadians from Fort Norman, with letters from Governor Simpson, and other gentlemen in the southern districts, containing satisfactory answers to the requisitions for stores that I had made in my passage through the country. We were also pleased to learn that Thomas Matthews, the carpenter, whom we had left at Cumberland House, on account of his leg being broken, had reached Fort Norman, in the Company's canoe; and I felt much indebted to Mr. James Keith, and Mr. Smith, Chief Factors, for the care and tenderness with which they had conveyed him through the country.
The season at which the ice begins to form, is the most favourable for fishing in the lakes of this country, and we then procured from four to five hundred daily. Those not required for immediate consumption, were hung on a stage to freeze, in which state they keep until the following spring. But we could not derive the full advantage from the season, because the drift ice, making it unsafe to keep the nets set in Bear Lake, they were taken up on the 18th. Near a month elapsed before they could be set with safety under the ice; our first attempts resulting in the loss of three nets. We procured, however, a few fish from the small lake, during this interval, and the rest of our food was supplied from the store of dried meat.
Thursday, 20th.We were visited on the 20th by a storm of snow, which continued, without intermission, for thirty-six hours. Although it put an end to the skating, and the games on the ice, which had been our evenings' amusement for the preceding week, yet the change made every one glad, because the snow was now deep enough for winter travelling. We had learned, some days before, that the hunters had stored fifteen rein-deer in the woods, and on the 22nd four men were despatched with sledges to bring them to the fort.
The first throw off of the dog-sledges for the season never fails to attract general attention; accordingly the whole party was collected to witness it on this occasion. They set off at full speed, and were soon out of sight. From this time dog-sledges were used to drag the fuel, which had been hitherto done by the men. We sent a party to cut down timber, and saw it into planks, fit for the construction of another boat.
Wednesday, 26th.On the 26th the thermometer first fell below zero, but the month closed with a very calm, mild day. Mr. Kendall and I were employed in measuring a geographical mile on the small lake, preparatory to a series of observations on the velocity of sound. The only ferine companions we now had were a few hardy quadrupeds and birds, capable of enduring the winter. The variety of the former was confined to wolves, foxes, martens, hares, mice, and a few rein-deer. Of the feathered tribe, there were the raven and Canadian crow, some snow-birds, wood-peckers, red-caps, crossbeaks, Canada, rock, and willow partridges, and a few hawks and owls.
Having received information that the Hudson's Bay Company intended sending their annual despatch from the Mackenzie River to York Factory, by the close of this month, November, 9th.and the ice on Bear Lake and the Mackenzie River being, on the 9th, sufficiently strong, we forwarded a packet of letters to Fort Norman, and a dog-sledge to convey Thomas Matthews to this place. On the 15th the nets were reset under the ice, and we were relieved from the necessity of putting the party on short allowance. We had the additional pleasure of learning that the hunters had killed ten rein-deer. The men returned from Fort Norman on the 18th, accompanied by Thomas Matthews, whose leg was yet too weak for him to walk more than a short distance.
During the middle, and towards the close of November, parheliæ were frequent; the most brilliant appeared on the 27th; it continued as long as the sun was above the horizon. The atmosphere was cloudless, and apparently free from haze, except just about the sun, which seemed to gleam through a fog. The surrounding circle was nearly complete, and displayed the prismatic colours vividly; from the centre of the sun's disk a beam of bright light extended upwards several degrees beyond the circle. The inner radius of the circle measured 21° 34', and the outer 22° 50'. The wind blew fresh all the day from E.N.E., and the temperature was 10°. In the evening the moon was encircled by two distinct halos; temperature 7°.
Tuesday, 29th.This morning the principal leader of the Dog-Ribs, and a large party of his tribe, came to the Fort. It is usual for Indians, on the first visit to an establishment, to make their approach in line, with much formality; but on this occasion our visitors showed an unusual degree of caution. Their distrust had originated in a very trifling occurrence at the close of our house-warming festivities on the 23rd of September. Some of the Canadians having asked Mr. Dease if our Highlandmen did not come from the same country with the rest of the English party, were told that they were natives of the mountainous lands, or Montagnards. This name unfortunately being used by the voyagers to designate the Dog-Ribs, was considered by the Highlanders to be a term of reproach when applied to themselves, and a scuffle ensued. Harmony was soon restored by the officers sending the most noisy to bed, and next morning the true meaning of the word Montagnard was explained to the Highlandmen, and the party set about their usual occupations with their wonted good feeling towards each other. Not so with an unlucky Dog-Rib, who had been attracted to the scene by hearing the name applied by the voyagers to his countrymen bandied about from one to the other, and thrusting his head into the crowd had received a blow. This at once confirmed all his fears, and he fled to spread a report amongst his countrymen that the white people intended to destroy the Indians. Although his report was not fully believed, yet it produced the feeling of distrust which the Indians manifested on their approach to the house. It was entirely removed by the explanation we gave. These Indians having brought a quantity of furs for the Hudson's Bay Company, as well as dried meat for ourselves, and I having understood from Mr. Dease that it would be an accommodation to them if they were permitted to deposit their furs at this place, instead of carrying them to Fort Norman, I acceded to this suggestion, and directed Mr. Dease to advance from our stores the goods required for the purchase of the furs, which were to be returned when we should visit that fort in the spring.
An old man belonging to the Company's establishment at Fort Norman arrived this day with his wife, to stay some time with us, because the supply of provision had failed at that post. We felt much pleasure in sharing our means with this aged couple, who were much reduced by their late scanty fare.
The close of November was marked by a succession of strong east winds, and a mildness of temperature, rare at this season. On the 30th the thermometer rose from +18° to 29° above zero, on the occurrence of a gale from the north.