Prague, Bohemia, April 5, 1855.
Since my last from Berlin, I have revisited Dresden, the capital of the kingdom of Saxony, and am now again in the old city of Prague, the former residence of the Bohemian kings.
While in Berlin, our minister addressed a note to Baron Humboldt, the world-renowned traveller, desiring an appointment, at his convenience, to present an American of some experience, which note was promptly responded to. We were cordially received, and passed an hour very delightfully in the society of this venerable old gentleman, now eighty-five years of age, surrounded by books, charts, and a little museum of his own collection.
The noble old man is still active, and fully retains his memory; he speaks fluently the English, French, and Spanish languages. He inquired ardently about countries it had fallen to my lot to visit, which he had not seen, and expressed regret at my early departure, which prevented further civilities on his part.
He is a great favorite with the king, and is of course a royalist; but he has much sympathy for our country, and regrets the late filibustering movements for the unlawful seizure of our neighbor’s possessions.
Dresden is noted for having the finest collection of paintings north of the Alps, the work of three hundred and thirty-four masters; the masterpiece is Raphael’s Madonna. A number of years had elapsed since I had strolled through these galleries, containing upwards of two thousand pictures, and I saw them with renewed pleasure.
Dresden is also noted in Germany for its musical associations. Madame Goldschmidt, formerly Jenny Lind, has made it her residence. As I had made her acquaintance through her countrywoman, Miss Fredrika Bremer, in the Havana, politeness induced me to pay my respects; she was absent on a tour to Holland.
From Dresden to Bodenback, the Austrian frontier, is two hours’ ride by railway, with a delay of an hour when the passports are demanded, certificates given, examined, and then exchanged, and the luggage changed.
The railways in north Germany belong in part to the different governments, and in part to incorporated companies. Here the cars are differently constructed, being larger and capable of containing more persons, resembling somewhat the American; while in most parts of Europe they are like the English ones, with separate apartments, of coach-form, for eight passengers.
The Austrian custom-houses and police are extremely rigid, and they keep, I am informed, a sharp eye upon Americans since the affair of Kosta. Perhaps the warm reception of Kossuth in our country, and the late European Congress of American Ministers, has had its influence.