In order to show you the smallness of the custom-house here, I will state that I was detained a full half hour in the payment of duty upon twenty-one cigars, which, with the official stamp, were taxed at thirty kreutzers, of which the officers retain one-third. I told them the document was worth the money, as an evidence of pitiful meanness, which I had found in no other part of Europe. On a former occasion, in entering Vienna, my travelling companion had two sealed and fifteen open letters of recommendation seized, which were addressed to different parts of Europe. The next day he was cited to the custom-house, and found two sheets of foolscap paper written over, and a fine of twenty florins imposed, which he resisted, as he spoke German, and threatened to apply to our Minister, when he escaped with the charge of five florins upon the sealed letters.
On entering my room here, I was immediately furnished with a printed sheet, to fill up for the police, with my name, birthplace, occupation, married or single, age, where now from, time of stay, religion, &c.
The language of the Bohemians is unintelligible to the Germans; and I am assured that there are native born persons here, among the lower classes, who cannot make the slightest communication in the German tongue. The names of the streets, and signs, are in both languages.
The strength of Austria, which contains a population of seven millions of Germans against twenty-nine millions of the different races, consists in the variety of languages and religions, as is the case with the British East India Company, through the jealousy and religious feuds of Hindoo, Buddhist, Parsee, and other castes.
I am told that throughout the Austrian domain as many as eighteen languages and dialects are spoken.
The Jewish population is some twelve thousand; it occupies a certain portion of the city, formerly inclosed and locked at night, though now all the barriers are removed. Their old synagogue and churchyard are curious; the former is the most antique in Europe, being considered one thousand years old. Its walls are dark and dusky as those of a prison, and for centuries have remained unrenovated. Here is suspended a banner, presented by royalty, some five hundred years since. The laws of Moses, written upon rolls of parchment, in the Hebrew tongue, and many other curious relics, are exhibited.
The new edifice is a pretty building, and when illuminated at night, in its peculiar style, has a handsome effect.
As I am just departing for Vienna, I shall be there in time for the prominent ceremonies in the Cathedral of St. Stephen.
CVIII.
Vienna, Austria, April 26, 1855.