Twenty years around the world

by John Guy Vassar

XXXV.

Jaffa, April 7, 1842.

When I wrote you last from Jerusalem, I was about making an excursion to St. John’s in the desert; and had also sent a messenger to the sheik of the Bedouins, who was to provide an escort to visit the Dead Sea, the river Jordan, Jericho, &c. Mounted on horses we passed Bab-el-Khalib, or the Gate of the Pilgrims, and soon found ourselves in the environs, passing the cistern where Zadok the priest and Nathan the prophet anointed Solomon king over Israel. It is dug in the rock, the same as the pools of Solomon. We next passed the tombs of the Maccabees, situated on a lofty hill to the right, and in two hours’ travel, over rocks and stones, hill and valley, we passed through the village where the convent stands erected on the spot where John the Baptist was born. We proceeded much further, penetrating the desert where he existed in the wilderness forty days upon locusts and wild honey. Some parts of this excursion we found indeed gloomy, without any vegetation, but in others the groves of olives situated upon terraces, with the cultivation of the grape, forming hanging gardens, presented a striking contrast. Near one of these olive groves, from which it is asserted the cross of Christ was taken, a convent has been founded in commemoration. It was dark when we returned; the gates of the city were closed, but having employed the Janizary of the English consul to await our return, we were permitted to enter.

Space did not permit me in my last to speak of that which interests Christians most, viz. the Holy Sepulchre and Mount Calvary. I visited the church the first time alone, preferring to pay my devotions at the shrine of our blessed Redeemer without annoyance. The access is by a narrow avenue, from its being so blocked up with buildings, and there is only one entrance. Over the doorway is sculptured the triumphal entrance of our Saviour into Jerusalem, and to the left is a high tower, the ancient belfry. The first object that I observed on entering was the slab of marble which covers the “stone of unction,” upon which the body of Christ was anointed for the tomb, John xix. 39. A little further in I found the nave of a circular form, surrounded by sixteen pillars, supporting galleries, and covered by a dome. In the centre of this area is a small oblong marble building, surmounted by a small cupola standing upon columns. This covers the supposed site of our Lord’s tomb.

The Greeks, Armenians, and Catholics occupy the principal part of the church, leaving the Copts but a small part, and the Protestants out of the question. The Catholic service had already commenced, and the display of the robes of the priests embroidered with gold and silver, the goblets and other vessels of gold, silver candlesticks with immense candles burning, the mitres of the priests filled with precious stones, reminded me impressively of the ceremonies of the Holy Week at Rome.

On one side of the Holy Sepulchre upon the pave was seated a group of women and girls, with white veils over their heads and faces partly covered; also others from Bethlehem, with shawls of a yellow color and faces entirely covered. These were surrounded by a guard of Turkish soldiers placed there to preserve order; as, unfortunately, so much jealousy exists among the sects, it becomes necessary; but they look on with indifference and contempt, considering us infidels, and our religion a farce.

The groups of Greeks and Armenians in native costume, the latter with heads shaved and red caps, were scattered around the church, and presented a scene at once novel and impressive. Since the fire of 1808, which burnt down a considerable part of the church, and which was repaired by the Greeks with Russian aid, they have secured the most important part of the church, and it is magnificently fitted up, rich in paintings, images, and gilding. On the north side is the chapel of the Apparition, where our Saviour appeared to Mary Magdalen. There is another altar, in commemoration of the flagellation of our Saviour (John xix. 1). Near the entrance of the church I ascended a flight of steps to the rock of Calvary, where Christ was crucified. Here are two altars, one of them Greek and the other Catholic; both splendidly adorned, the floor of mosaic, the cross with the figure of Christ suspended, and the figures of two women, one on each side. The rear is filled up with pictures, small crucifixes of pearl, and all sorts of devices, lamps continually burning, and suspended ostrich eggs. Between two slabs of marble is a small grating, through which with a candle I could discover the original rock, to all appearance split by the earthquake which followed the crucifixion of Christ. In another part is shown an altar erected on the spot where the soldiers drew lots for the garments of Christ (John xix. 33). Then descending about twenty steps into a rocky court the spot is shown where the Empress Helena discovered the true cross.

These localities have the appearance of truth, and if deception has been practised it was well devised. I attended the various services in the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, but cannot go further into detail, for I must give you some idea of our visit to Jordan. Being informed that the road thither by Jericho was quite unsafe without a strong escort, and being notorious from early antiquity as beset by robbers, evidence of which the poor Levite had when relieved by the good Samaritan, we applied to the sheik of the Bedouins, and myself, my companion and dragoman, started with five Arabs, well armed. Passing the gate of Mount Zion, and crossing the Valley of Jehoshaphat, and part of the Mount of Olives, in half an hour’s ride we arrived at Bethany, the village where Jesus raised Lazarus from the dead. The monks here pretend to show the localities of the house of Simon the leper, of Mary and Martha, and the identical fig-tree which the Lord cursed. We proceeded, winding through the mountains and valleys, until towards night we discovered in the distance the long line of black tents, surrounded by herds of goats, sheep, camels, and horses. When we arrived, we found the tent of the sheik ready to receive us, but what a reception in the tent of the Bedouins! Here was man almost in his primitive state. Blankets of camel’s hair were spread upon the ground; the tent was inclosed on two sides only. The women and children seemed excited at the appearance of strangers, but soon recovered from their surprise. A small hole was made in the ground in front of the tent, some brush was brought, a few grains of coffee in an iron ladle were roasted over the fire, and at length the indispensable pipe and coffee were passed. The encampment formed a circle of about twenty tents, and while the old men and the most influential of the tribe formed a group in the front of the tent of the sheik, the women and children were employed in driving all the animals within the inclosure for the night. Our evening repast consisted of fresh bread with goat’s and sheep’s milk, after which we stretched ourselves upon the blankets, surrounded by some fifteen or twenty Bedouins, but not to sleep, as the noise of the animals and the crawling of insects were calculated to give us an early start in the morning. After traversing the mountain where it is said Jesus was tempted by the devil, and over hill and dale, we at last arrived at Jericho, which is entirely destroyed. The only object of interest is the supposed house of Zaccheus. After leaving Jericho we proceeded across the plain for about three hours, until we saw the trees in the distance which denoted the Jordan. We had already discovered a great deal of anxiety on the part of our Arabs in crossing the mountains, on seeing four men on the top of a mountain in the distance, and they remarked that they had lost several camels and sheep, and had had one of their tribe killed, all of which we concluded might be a farce to extort money from strangers; but on approaching the Jordan we discovered a party emerging from a thicket with muskets, and our Arabs were greatly alarmed. We were well armed; a consultation was held; the blessed stream where St. John baptized our Redeemer was in sight; we determined on proceeding at all hazards, and finally had the satisfaction of bathing in the stream and procuring some bottles of the water. The suspected party finally came up, and proved to be friendly Arabs.

The Jordan runs very rapidly; the banks are covered with trees and verdure, and present a very pretty appearance. I was struck with wonder and surprise when I reflected how in ancient times the shores of the Jordan were crowded with multitudes of human beings, while now not a habitation or a civilized being is to be found upon its banks; the only occupants that I saw were wolves and gazelles.

After leaving the Jordan we passed over a sandy plain until we arrived upon the shores of the Dead Sea, which is entitled to its name, it being unruffled, the water very heavy, and consequently very buoyant. I threw in several logs of wood, which floated like corks upon the surface. After washing my hands they were covered with an oily and scaly substance. The flavor of the water is extremely salt and bitter. It is contended by some that fish do not exist in it. I did not discover any shells or anything to indicate their existence. Others contend that fish are found, but of a poisonous quality.