It was not my lot to discover any remains of the lost cities of Sodom and Gomorrah. From the Dead Sea we proceeded across the limestone mountains to Mount Saba, where there is a Greek convent, and arrived just at night at this extraordinary location, which is situated among rocky cliffs and ledges, in the midst of a gloomy mountain occupied only by the Bedouins. On knocking at the gate of this vast monastery, fortified by nature and art, and asking admission as pilgrims and Christians, we were welcomed in; and our dragoman being a Greek, we were received with all hospitality, and enjoyed the repose we so much needed. We here found the monks very polite in showing us all the contents of the convent. They told us that in the middle ages St. Saba, with many followers, occupied the caves and ledges of the rocks which are to be found in the vicinity, and that he had a dream, in which he was directed by an angel to found a convent on this spot, which was finally accomplished. They showed us the ancient chapel in the rock, where were exhibited the skulls of all the monks slain in three attacks by the Turks. One of their number was buried the morning we left, having been there forty years, dying at the age of ninety.
On leaving Mount Saba, we directed our course for Bethlehem, and after a ride of three hours over the mountain, we approached the town by a gradual ascent along the side of a well cultivated hill, walled up amphitheatre-like. On entering the convent erected over the place of nativity of our Saviour, we discovered the remains of a church founded by the empress Helena. Taking lights, we followed one of the priests down a flight of steps, visiting several altars consecrated to St. Gerolomi and others, and finally came to a chamber, in which place it is said Jesus was born. The chamber is from twenty-five to thirty feet long, and about fifteen broad, illuminated by fifty hanging lamps. At the extreme end is shown the ancient fireplace of the house of the Virgin; upon the marble hearth is a plate of gold beset with precious stones. On the other side, in a sort of grotto in the rock, is represented a manger, the place being said to be the identical spot where the babe of Bethlehem was laid. The chamber is adorned with paintings representing the virgin and the infant, and lamps are continually burning.
After quitting this interesting spot, we pursued our course to Jerusalem, where we soon arrived, after an absence of three days; and glad I was to return, having suffered exceedingly with my eyes from the extreme heat and glare of the sun, in crossing the limestone mountains. The weakness of my sight confined me to the house for two days, whereby I was able only to receive the vendors of beads and crucifixes.
On our route from Jerusalem to Jaffa, we took refuge at the house of our vice-consul, at Ramlah, who entertained that evening all the suite of the Pasha of Jerusalem, on their return from Gaza, as also the sheiks of several tribes of Bedouins; and it was an amusing sight to see some twenty persons squatted on the low divan, with their long pipes, all in Turkish costume, with long black beards and turbans, and occasionally a venerable Turk with his beard as white as snow. When dinner was announced, five small tables, about a foot and a half in height, were placed upon the floor, with servers on each; when four persons squatting around each, commenced the repast, eating in silence, without the use of forks, rising when satisfied, and washing their hands, which is done both before and after eating, the master of the house dipping his fingers first in the dish at table, and being the last to leave the table, following the rules of etiquette; all returning upon the divan, and resuming their favorite chibouque and cup of coffee.
We are now stopping in the Saba convent, and waiting an opportunity to go to Alexandria; expecting the arrival of a schooner to-morrow, which is the only communication. This town is the ancient Joppa spoken of in Scripture, 2d Chron. ii. 16; Acts ix. 36 and 42, and is situated upon an eminence overhanging the sea. The houses rise in terraces from the water’s edge, and present a singular appearance from the sea. It is like a town of stairs, the streets paved in steps, owing to the inequality of the ground. This port is small, and the rocks dangerous. The view from the roofs of the houses is splendid. The surf comes to an immense height to-day, having had a strong north wind. The environs are beautiful, particularly the orange groves, which abound, extending all over the plains of Sharon, so celebrated in Scripture for their fertility, and the beautiful flowers that grow spontaneously from the soil.
XXXVI.
Valetta, Island of Malta, May 14, 1842.
My only means of passage from Jaffa to Alexandria, where I wished to take the steamer for this island, was on board of a crazy old brig, laden with bones for the manufacture of buttons. The captain and his wife were Greeks, and occupied the cabin, infested with vermin. My companion preferred the deck. I spread my Turkish rug in the yawl-boat, and covered it with the awning of our tent, and resigned myself for a four days’ trip. Our servants succeeded in preparing our meals, although surrounded by fifteen or twenty Arabs, Turks, and Armenians, most of them dirty-looking fellows. Some of them were pilgrims from Jerusalem. Entering the harbor of Alexandria an Egyptian officer, who spoke French, approached us in his boat, but without coming in contact. He took our bill of health in a tin box to be fumigated, and then condemned us to a quarantine of ten days. This was annoying and unexpected; but poor Tray was found in bad company, and we marched off to the quarantine prisons, where, separated from others by iron bars and railings, to avoid plague-contagion, we awaited provisions from outside. Our apartments consisted of two rooms, without furniture, and covered with dust. We applied to our consul for supplies and made remonstrances, as the plague did not actually exist where we came from, but persons were dying from the disease in our vicinity, and the guard were obliged to keep our servants from communication with infected subjects, which might jeopardize our lives. Our arms were demanded of us, which we were unwilling to give up. To our great joy, through the united action of the Prussian and American consuls, we were liberated after two days’ incarceration in this miserable place. What a relief it was to find a decent hotel, a fair table, a comfortable bed, clean sheets, and tolerably free from fleas and other vermin, after the fatigue and inconvenience of Nile and desert travel, sleeping under tents, in mud huts, and subjected to a thousand annoyances, notwithstanding which my health has improved. But the strong glare of light, and reflection of the sun’s rays upon the sand, if it had not produced ophthalmia, had so affected my eyes that I had to abandon reading and writing for some time. Fortunately a pair of green goggles, which I had used among the ice mountains of Switzerland, came apropos. I remained a few days at Alexandria, and embarked for this island in the steamer Great Liverpool, bearing the Oriental mail and passengers. The accommodations are of a superior character. Those who land here must undergo a quarantine of twenty-one days. This being the third annoyance of the kind, I was loth to submit, but comfortable provision being made under British rule, and the desire to visit the island in detail, and then proceed to Spain, made the sacrifice compulsory. This ridiculous farce will in time be modified or abandoned. Our ship came in quarantine harbor without communication with the shore, other than through the fumigating process.
We were taken in a boat, keeping at a respectful distance from the oarsmen, and when at the station the payment of coin was made by throwing it in a bucket of water. Our quarters were comfortable, the servants attentive, the restaurant was well provided. We could receive and pay visits within the ward, but only in the presence of the guards, and without touching each other, being kept at the length of the guardiano’s stick. The island of Malta lies sixty miles east of Sicily; it is twenty miles in length, twelve in breadth, and sixty in circumference. The capital, Valetta, was built by the grand master in 1566; it has houses of cut stone, two and three stories high, with balconies; rises to a considerable height like a town of stairs, and is well paved and very clean, under English military rule. The strong glare of light and dust from pulverized stone is bad for the eyes. It has many edifices and public buildings full of interest. The ancient palace of the Knights of St. John, now the residence of the governor, is interesting for its works of art and relics taken in the siege of Rhodes. The Church of St. John, or cathedral, is a gem. Even after one has seen most of the prominent churches of Italy, much of merit will be found in this edifice. The mosaic pave is of precious marble, and the epitaphs of the members of the order are intensely interesting. The city is two and a half miles in circumference. The fortifications are on an enormous scale, and considered impregnable. The harbors are small but safe, containing many frigates and other naval vessels at anchor. The promenade on the bastions gives an extended view.
Although, properly speaking, the island is not much more than a barren rock, it has become, through the industry and perseverance of its occupants exceedingly fertile and well cultivated. The hills and rising grounds are inclosed by walls, to prevent the earth washing away, and form a succession of terraces.