They excavate and export cut stone, for flagging, in large quantities, and with the return vessels bring soil, which, mixed with pulverized stone, is made productive. I have made the tour of the island on horseback, and found the weather hot; in many places they had commenced harvesting.
My servant and a running guide accompanied me to the ancient city of Citta Vecchia. After riding five miles over a dusty but magnificent road, in many places cut through the solid rock, and admiring the small patches of vegetation, we came to the palace and gardens of San Antonio. Here I found a mixture of English and African trees, almonds, roses in profusion, and loquats, a fruit of a golden color, of an acid taste, introduced from China, and very refreshing on a dusty road. We then rode to Citta Vecchia; we were considerably annoyed by beggars. We looked at the old church, containing some beautiful work in bronze and marble, with paintings and frescoes of St. Paul’s shipwreck. The relics of stately buildings, rich in architecture, are visible in all directions. Not far distant we were shown a church under which was the cave where St. Paul and St. Luke resided for three months. In the neighborhood are found the catacombs. Descending a staircase we found a gallery, with branches in all directions, forming quite a labyrinth.
The sides contain tombs cut out of the solid rock, without regular order, but with considerable taste. There are several halls, galleries, and places for sacrifices. On the floor was one circular block, about four feet in diameter, flat on the top, with a low edge around it. Above are seen funnels and chimneys leading outside. The ancient Phœnicians burnt offerings to the element of fire on the occasion of every tenant deposited in the tomb. In another direction we visited a village where the poor people voluntarily tax themselves in erecting a commodious church over and around the old one. They have been at work nine years, and require five more to accomplish it.
On Sundays the mechanics and laborers are all sure to turn out and work. When the new edifice is finished, the old one will be torn down and taken out. We passed through several villages containing fine churches, clean and comfortable houses, notwithstanding the poverty of the inhabitants. They are strong Catholics, and speak the Maltese dialect, a mixture of Arabic and Italian. The caleshe, or vehicle of the country, has three windows, one pair of wheels, and the driver runs beside the horse. St. Paul’s Bay is quite prominent; the spot where he landed has a chapel dedicated to him.
We passed over some high hills to obtain a view of Mellicha, where the devoted make their pilgrimage.
In the neighborhood are seen caves in the rock, once inhabited. The Grotto of Calypso was pointed out by our guide; we found a man and his wife in it, with a hand-loom, a few cooking utensils, a few old clothes, and a couple of chairs, which was all their stock; a small present made them quite happy. They had, very naturally, never heard of Calypso.
They had a beautiful valley lying below them, with a deep bay and the island of Gozo in the distance. There is much to be said and described in and about the island, but time does not permit, as I embark for Spain.
SUMMER TRIP, 1842.
The steamer Alecto brought me from Malta to Gibraltar; we coasted along the African shore, sighting Algiers, with its high walls and whitewashed buildings, crowned by its citadel. I was struck with awe and admiration at the sight of the renowned rock of Gibraltar, whose defences entitle it to be called the key of the Mediterranean. I climbed up zigzag roads and stairways, and was shown immense galleries excavated out of the solid rock, which terminate in the battery called “St. George’s Hall.” Higher up, at the height of thirteen hundred feet, is the rock gun. The number of cannon employed in all the general defences is said to be eight hundred. On the summit, or Telegraph Hill, we partook of refreshments, and looking over a register kept for visitors, I was amused at their comments: “No monkeys visible to-day.” “Where are all the monkeys?” “Lots of monkeys to-day.” I looked over the parapet wall, and, sure enough, the fine weather had brought out thirty-nine or forty, who were scrambling and chattering among the branches of the scrub trees. It is the only spot in Europe where they are found; heavy penalties prevent killing them, but the dogs sometimes destroy them when they descend to rob the gardens below. St. Michael’s Cave is curious for its stalactites, and came in as an additional attraction. The view from the summit over the straits and the African coast, the Spanish town of Algesiras, on the opposite side of the bay, the neutral ground, the walled and fortified city below, was of the most enjoyable character. The alemedas, or promenades, are well laid out, and planted with trees and flowers, which give them a cheerful appearance. The birthday of Queen Victoria was the occasion of grand demonstrations on shore and on shipboard. At mid-day the roar of cannons from the vessels of war, in which our own ship Brandywine took part, and the discharge of thirty-two pounders from the rock galleries, produced such a concussion that my inkstand trembled while I wrote. The night illumination of the eighty-four gun-ship Formidable, and others, was magnificent.
The tents and camp of the General, covered with devices and transparencies, produced a fine effect, and the bursting of rockets lighted up the countenances of the dancing multitude upon the Alemeda.