I have just returned from the north side of this little continent, whose circumference, by an even line, is about one thousand miles, and am now waiting the arrival of the steamer to proceed to Jamaica. At present, the drought is excessive on the plains, and the heat of the sun almost overpowering; and I can scarcely realize that while I am writing, dressed in light summer clothing, with my unglazed shutters wide open, and the birds singing merrily in the cocoa-nut trees of the garden, that in this month (February) you, at home, are muffled in furs, and have another music in the chinkling sleigh bells. This town, Jacmel, with a population of some eight thousand, stands at the head of a fine bay (the lower town is the commercial portion), and is built along the shore, near which lies the shipping, that takes the products of the country, principally coffee and logwood. The upper town is built on the hill, and in entering the port, presents a pretty appearance; but the effect is soon lost with bad paved streets and indifferent houses. I was pleased to find a number of schools in the towns and cities.
I am gratified in having had an opportunity of seeing a South American Republic, and a Black Republic, both of which are failures, as they have resolved themselves into military despotisms, without the great fundamental principles of religion and education, which I trust we shall always preserve in the United States.
LII.
Havana, March 22, 1849.
I started for Jamaica in the English steamer, which proved to be our old New York favorite, the Great Western. After landing at Kingston she proceeded to San Jago de Cuba, giving me nearly a week’s sojourn on the island, prior to embarking for the island of Cuba.
Kingston, although quite a large town, was exceedingly dull. The colonists complain bitterly of the mother country; an immense number of estates have been thrown up, the price of labor demanded by the manumitted blacks exceeding the ability of the planter to grow sugar in competition with the slave-holding colonies. Various expedients have been tried by the English to introduce laborers from the East Indies, and have proved a failure. One large planter informed me that the apprentice system was now found to be the best. All captured slaves are apprenticed for a number of years, and not understanding the language of the country, they apply themselves readily to labor, and become attached to the estate on which they are placed, and with good treatment show no disposition to leave. Although Kingston is a quiet and uninteresting town, lying on a slope with wide and unpaved streets, and sandy soil, still many of the houses, constructed of wood or stone, two stories high, setting a little back from the street, with verandas above and below, have an air of convenience for a warm climate. I found a very good and retired hotel, full of English comforts, and kept by an English lady. The hotels generally are only tolerable.
I enjoyed a rest after my fatigues in Hayti, and then made some excursions in the interior. The capital of the island, Spanish Town, offers nothing of interest aside from the public buildings, the House of Assembly, the residence of the governor, and the military barracks for the black troops. The white regiment of English soldiers is stationed at New Castle, an elevated point in the mountains, some fifteen miles from Kingston, where they enjoy better health than they would at the latter place, and can be called upon when needed.
The House of Assembly was in session. It is composed of forty-seven members, a respectable-looking body, the largest proportion of whom are white, though there are some mulattoes and one black among them. The debate was rather interesting, as tending to reduce the burdens of the island, the taxes being enormous for their present reduced resources; but the governor, bishop, and other officials, appointed by the crown, with fat offices, being members of the Council or Upper House of twelve, bolted, I understood, and I suppose had their own way. The Court of Assize was holding its term while I was in the capital. On entering the court-room I found a crowd of blacks and mulattoes, drawn thither by the trial of a negro, who occupied the prisoner’s box, for the murder of one of his race in a night fracas. I made my way through to get a view, and hear the evidence, and could not without difficulty command my gravity. The judges and lawyers were in black robes, agreeably to the English forms; the jury were half white, the balance being negroes and mulattoes. The evidence, on the part of the blacks who were present at the fight, was in such broken language, and so contradictory, that the counsel and judges were at times obliged to give vent to a suppressed laugh, and in which I heartily joined, but was soon stopped by the cry of “silence,” coming loudly from the mulatto criers in regimentals.
Jamaica is a fine island, and has been one of the most productive of the group. The views in the interior are varied, and the mountain ranges present a great variety of magnificent scenery, and a great diversity of climate; but the island in general has sadly fallen off from its ancient prosperity. The distance from Kingston to Havana, seven hundred and forty miles, was made under favorable circumstances, the ship and passengers behaving well. The portion of the latter who had never seen Havana were struck with the cheerful and picturesque views in the distance, as we approached the harbor, on the left of the narrow channel or entrance of which stands the old Moro Castle, with its bastions well fortified, and on the opposite side the Punta, another strong fort, and the immense Tacon prison, with its imposing exterior.
Being already familiar with the island, nothing struck me as new except such innovations as had been made upon old Spanish customs, since my last visit; but I well recollect the impressions made upon me when I first landed upon its shores and could enjoy the surprise of some of my fellow passengers when they beheld the peculiar construction of the buildings, the narrow streets, and the volante, or carriage of the country. I repeat, a stranger is surprised and amused at seeing such things for the first time, and as these vehicles dash along the Paseo or public promenade, in long files with fleet horses, filled with ladies in full dress, with mantillas instead of bonnets, enjoying the balmy air before the setting sun, they cannot but prove attractive to him.