So much has been said and written about Havana that I shall not attempt a description. Suffice it to say, I found that the same causes which extend the suburbs of our cities have here had their effects, for since a line of omnibuses was established, the environs of Cero have been beautified for about three miles out, and there are now many delightful residences there. When passing the country-house where Santa Anna formerly resided, and where I saw him engaged in his favorite sport of cock-fighting three years ago, a crowd of thoughts came in my mind, of the immense conflicts and conquests growing out of his return to Mexico; and now I find him banished again, and living in retirement in the suburbs of Kingston, Jamaica.
The city, in fact the island in general, is enjoying its usual prosperity under the existing institution of slavery, but in a more grateful aspect than formerly, by reason of the suppression of the slave trade to a great extent. In consequence of the drought the sugar crop will be much less in quantity, but the large prices obtained for it will make good the deficiency.
The Habaneros are fond of music, and have been in raptures with the Opera Company who have now left. They have the Tacon Theatre, an immense structure, the interior of which is chastely ornamented, with boxes separated by slight railings, and open gilded trellised work in front; when filled with ladies in full dress it produces a beautiful spectacle. The Ravels are now doing all the business. The steamer for Charleston has taken the family of children called “The Viennese Dancers,” who have done better at Matanzas than here.
The carnival season had ended when I arrived, but having already passed several carnivals here and in different parts of Italy, it was no great loss. The Grand Catalan Benevolent Society Masquerade Ball did not come off as usual in the theatre this year, but was held in three distinct places, on a Sunday evening, according to custom. When held at the Tacon, where I saw it once, with six thousand persons attending it attired in all possible variety of costumes and dances, while outside, the Paseo or public promenade contained many thousands more, under the mild rays of a full moon, dancing to the sounds of banjos, and other discordant music; it was really a novelty, and like all new visitors I enjoyed it, but now I gaze upon it with indifference.
A few days since I met with a travelling acquaintance who had accompanied me, when I was last on the island, to its south side, where we visited the sugar estates, and made ourselves familiar with the whole operation of grinding the cane, and boiling and granulating the extract into sugar. Afterwards we stopped at a small Spanish town at the termination of the railroad, which was exceedingly dull, except on festivals, or to those who take an interest in cock-fighting, for which the Spaniards have a great passion, congregating here in goodly numbers, from town and country, in the arena of a small theatre, twice a week, to exercise this cruel practice, in which one of the combatants must be killed to decide their heavy bets.
On Sunday morning we attended the parish church, where a large number of ladies had assembled, with their flowing white and black lace mantillas, gracefully thrown over the back of the head and shoulders, kneeling and sitting in groups upon their rugs on the stone floor of the church, apparently devout, and watching the changes of the service, while their negro servants in livery were placed beside them. A detachment of cavalry was also upon their knees, and two of the privates in the same position, with drawn swords, were placed beside the priest at the altar. During the several changes of the service the trumpeter of the troops would sound his shrill bugle, and the old walls seemed to shake. Service being done many of the ladies crossed over to the fancy shops, which were all open, to make their purchases. Soon after the country people begin to arrive on horseback, with their game chickens under their arms, and in this way, or in some other diversion, they pass the Sabbath, which to them is considered a festival or holiday.
The steamer Isabel, of the Charleston line, has just left. The evening before her departure her owner, who is from Charleston, gave an entertainment on board which passed off well. The family of the Captain General of the island, and several of the Spanish nobility, with a number of the consuls, and many English, German, and American ladies and gentlemen, to the number of a hundred, after a dance on deck to the music of the band, sat down to a magnificent supper. The steamer lay off in the harbor, and we were taken on board by a steam ferry-boat. The deck of the steamer, which was well lighted up, and a stream of rockets flying in the air, produced a fine effect from the shore.
The season of Lent will soon be over, when the functions of the Holy Week will take place; but having described to you the ceremonies at Jerusalem, and the great and gorgeous display at Rome under Pius IX., I fear I shall have but little to communicate on this occasion. I could have hardly thought while in Rome, one year since, hearing the enthusiastic multitudes singing VIVAS to Pio Nono, that he would so soon be banished from his temporal and spiritual seat.
LIII.
Havana, April 10, 1849.