CONTENTS.

List of Illustrations[xi]
Glossary of Gaelic Names and Words[xxvii]
Introduction.
Extent of Gairloch parish—Name—Curious muddle about "the Gairloch"—Name used in four senses—Attractions of Gairloch—Loch Maree—Superficial observation of tourists—A party declare they have "seen Loch Maree"—Inducements to longervisits—Credibility of old traditions—Gaelic names—Pronunciation—Interference with sportsmen and deerforests deprecated—Mountain ascents—Drawbacks to them—Shorter climbs recommended—Mania for exterminatingplants—Instances[xliii]

Part I.—Records and Traditions of Gairloch.

Chapter I.—Early History.
Absence of ancient records—Giants in those days—Fingalian legends—Condition of Pictish aborigines—Their houses andimplements—Druids—Roman invasion—Pictish monarchy—Introduction of Christianity—StMaelrubha—Hermits of Isle Maree—Norse vikings—Norwegians and Danes—End of Norwegian rule in1263—The earls of Ross—Donald of the Isles—The Mackenzies[3]
Chapter II.—The Tragedy of Isle Maree.
Scene laid in Isle Maree—The hermit saint—Prince Olaf—His fiery temper—Falls in love—Brings his brideto Isle Maree—Is compelled to leave her on an expedition—The white and black flags—Return of the prince—Jealousy of theprincess—Her scheme to test Olaf's affection—His madness on seeing the black flag—Thinking her dead he kills himself—Theprincess stabs herself and dies—Their graves on Isle Maree[7]
Chapter III.—The Mackenzies of Kintail.
Two origins of the family of Mackenzie—The Cabar Feidh—Angus Mac Mhathain—Kenneth, first lord of Kintail—John, secondlord, shelters Robert Bruce—Kenneth of the Nose—Kenlochewe ravaged—Leod Mac Gilleandreis—Black Murdo of theCave—Joined by Gille Riabhach—Comes to Kenlochewe—Slays Leod Mac Gilleandreis and his followers—Athnan Ceann—Fe Leoid—Black Murdo of the Cave recovers Kintail—Murdo of the Bridge, fifth lord of Kintail—Alexanderthe Upright, father of Hector Roy, first laird of Gairloch—Skirmish of Beallach nam Brog—Residences of lordsof Kintail[11]
Chapter IV.—Ewan Mac Gabhar, the Son of the Goat.
Ardlair—The cave of the king's son—Old Oighrig and her sonKenneth—The goat Earba nourishes Ewan in the cave—Flora andEwan come to Letterewe—Ewan's sword and mantle of state—Thelord of Kintail comes to hunt—Flora and Ewansuspected—Kenneth and Flora carried off to Eileandonain—Oighrig and Ewan conveyed to Colin MorGillespie—Colin Mor brings up Ewan—Great war against the queen widow of Olamh Mor—Ewan gets a command—His slenderpage—Mull plundered—The invaders surprised at night and captured—The queen condemns the chiefs to death—Ewan ledforth to die—The execution arrested—Ewan identified and proclaimed king—Prophecy fulfilled[14]
Chapter V.—The Macraes of Kintail and Gairloch.
The Macraes settle in Kintail—Become Mackenzie's "shirt of mail"—The sons of Fortune—Assist in conquest ofGairloch—List of Macraes who fought for Gairloch—Effigy of Donald Odhair—Macraes renowned archers—Compared with Turkisharchers—The Macraes bore the dead bodies of their chiefs to burial—The last occasion of this—Curious statement[19]
Chapter VI.—The MacBeaths.
MacBeaths from Assynt—Some still in Gairloch—Had severalstrongholds—Lochan nan Airm—Kintail men come to Loch Tollie—Shoot MacBeath's servant on the island—MacBeathflies—Is struck by an arrow—Kintail men stay a night on the island—Come through Gairloch—Report to their chief[21]
Chapter VII.—The M'Leods of Gairloch.
The Siol Torquil—Claim to Gairloch—Legal title commenced 1430—MacBeaths expelled—The Tigh Dige—Strongholds ofthe M'Leods—Eilean Ruaridh—Allan M'Leod, laird of Gairloch—Murdered by his brothers at the "Hill of evilcounsel"—They also murder his two boys—The widow takes their bloody shirts to her father—Hector Roy takes the shirts to theking—Who gives Hector commission of fire and sword against the M'Leods—The M'Leods confined to one-third of Gairloch[24]
Chapter VIII.—The Macdonalds in Gairloch.
Macdonalds, clansmen of Donald of the Isles—Probably some settledin Gairloch—Still in Gairloch and Alligin—Mac GilleRiabhaich—His cave—Story of his oak cudgel—Thesoubriquet Darach—His descendant, Darroch of Torridon—DonaldDubh Mac Gillechriosd Mhic Gille Riabhaich—Threatens HectorRoy—Slays Buchanan after Flodden Field[27]
Chapter IX.—Hector Roy Mackenzie, first Laird of Gairloch.
Vision of the great chief and his bodyguard—His appearance andvalour—Obtains charter to Gairloch—Slays three M'Leods at"the Gairloch"—The battle of Park—Hector Roy and Big Duncanof the Axe—Hector Roy at Sauchieburn—He claimsKintail—Battle of Drum a Chait—Big Duncan againassists—Hector Roy outlawed—Assists Mac Cailean—Kneelsbefore the king—Grasps his hand—Is pardoned—Abandonshis claim to Kintail—Fight with M'Leods at BeallachGlasleathaid—Big Duncan and his son Dugal—Hector Royconquers part of Gairloch—Battle of Flodden—Clan Eachainn[29]
Chapter X.—John Glassich Mackenzie and his Sons.
John Glassich brought up in Strathglass—ClaimsKintail—Refuses to join the royal standard—Apprehended byKenneth of Kintail—Iain Gearr's pluck—Death of JohnGlassich—Donald Gorme invades Kenlochewe—Hector andAlexander, sons of John Glassich, both slain[36]
Chapter XI.—John Roy Mackenzie.
John Roy resembled his grandfather Hector—His youth—Visitshis mother, wife of Mackay—Goes with a bodyguard to Iain Liath atGlas Leitire—Lord Kintail abandons his hunt on the Glas Leitirehills—John Roy and Iain Liath go to Gairloch—Iain Dubh MacRuaridh M'Leod abandons the Gairloch dun—Struggles with theM'Leods—John Roy's family—His bodyguard composed of his twelve sons—Dealings withthe tithes of Gairloch—The Talladale ironworks—John Roy'sresidence—Visits Mackay—Mackay's piper becomes John Roy'spiper—Lord Mackenzie summons John Roy to Torridon—He staysthe night with his lordship—Proposed assassinationdeferred—John Roy's sons arrive and take him away—Allies ofGlengarry Macdonalds make an incursion to Kenlochewe—LordMackenzie visits John Roy—John Roy granted a remission by thecrown[38]
Chapter XII.—Expulsion of the M'Leods from Gairloch.
Murchadh Riabhach na Cuirce—Slays Mac Iain DhuibhM'Leod—Ruaridh Mac Allan M'Leod assassinates Iain Mac GhilleChallum M'Leod and his sons by Janet Mackenzie—John Roy revengesthe murder—Expels the M'Leods from Gairloch—The Cnoc aChrochadair—The affair at Leac nan Saighead—Mor Banpersuades the M'Leods to invade Gairloch—They come to FraochEilean—Donald Odhar and his brother shoot them from Leac nanSaighead—Only two M'Leods escape in the birlinn—DonaldOdhar's long shot from Craig a Chait—Young M'Leod of Assynt asksJohn Roy's daughter for his wife—Is refused—Fionnla Dubh naSaighead insults him—The M'Leods return to take vengeance onFinlay—He and Chisholm shoot many of them—Finlay pursuesNeil M'Leod to the Bac an Leth-choin and shoots him at the Druim CarnNeill—Fight at Lochan an Fheidh—Affair at Raasay—MurdoMackenzie in his ship driven into Kirkton—Young M'Leod of Raasayand his companions visit him—All the party get drunk except fourGairloch men—A fight ensues—Murdo drowned—All on boardslain except three of the abstainers—They escape[43]
Chapter XIII.—Alastair Breac, and his Son and Grandson.
Alastair Breac, a renowned warrior—Raids of cattlelifters—Iain Geal Donn proposes a raid on Gairloch—AlastairBuidhe Mackay intercepts him at Scardroy—Slays him and all his menexcept one—Alastair Breac sends the news to LordMackenzie—Cameron of Lochiel plans a raid on Gairloch inrevenge—Alastair Breac sends eighty men to oppose him, but he hasretired—Song composed to the Guard of the Black Corrie—CollaBan—In default of blackmail threatens raid on Gairloch—Hisspies are frightened by four Gairloch men at Luibmhor—Kenneth,sixth laird of Gairloch, fined as a "malignant"—Alexander, seventhlaird of Gairloch[49]
Chapter XIV.—The Baronets of Gairloch and some other GairlochMackenzies.
Sir Kenneth, eighth laird of Gairloch—M.P. forRoss-shire—Sir Alexander, ninth laird of Gairloch—BuildsFlowerdale—The "Forty-five"—Murder of the Gille Buidhe,valet to Prince Charlie—Duncan Macrae conveys a keg of gold forPrince Charlie's use—The "sian"—English man-of-war fires atFlowerdale—Sir Alexander, tenth laird of Gairloch—BuildsConan House—His son called "Fighting Jack," the father of theBritish army—Sir Hector Mackenzie—Lives athome—Lord-Lieutenant of Ross-shire—His belovedlady—Sir Francis Mackenzie—Publishes his "Hints" in1838—Sir Kenneth, present baronet—Mackenzies ofLetterewe—Mackenzies of Lochend—Mackenzies ofGruinard—Large family—Mackenzies of Kernsary—Summaryof Mackenzie History—Crest, Badge, Slogan, and Pipe tunes[53]
Chapter XV.—Gairloch Estates, and Old Names of Places.
Kenlochewe—Gairloch—Description in protocol of1494—Description in retour of 1566—Description in1638—Names in Dutch map of 1662—Second half of the water ofEwe bought in 1671—Strip on north of River Ewe acquired in1844—Letterewe originally Kintail property—Acquired byCharles Mackenzie in 1696—Sold to Mr Bankes in 1835—Northernparts of Gairloch belonging to Gruinard Mackenzies before1655—Sold to Davidson of Tulloch in 1795—Afterwards acquiredby Mr Bankes—Mr O. H. Mackenzie's estate of Inverewe[60]
Chapter XVI.—Ecclesiastical History of Gairloch.
First church in Gairloch—Other early ecclesiasticalbuildings—Rector of Gairloch at date ofReformation—Presbyterianism—Tulchan bishops—Changesfrom Episcopalianism to Presbyterianism—Rev. AlexanderMackenzie—Rev. Farquhar Macrae—Rev. RoderickMackenzie—Rev. Kenneth Mackenzie of Kernsary—Rev. JohnMorrison—Persecuted by Episcopalians—Anecdotes—Histurf-built church in Tollie Bay—Christmas story—Rev. JamesSmith—First school in Gairloch—Anecdote of Rev. MrSage—Rev. Æneas McAulay—Rev. John Dounie—Rev. JamesRussell—His imperfect Gaelic—Poolewe made a separateparish—The Disruption—Presbyteries of Dingwall, Kenlochewe,Chanonry, Gairloch, and Loch Carron—Churches inGairloch—Manse and glebe at Achdistall, Cliff andStrath—Free churches and their ministers[63]
Chapter XVII.—Ancient Gairloch Ironworks.
Two classes of remains of ironworks—Rev. Donald M'Nicol'sstatement—Coin found near old Yorkshire ironworks—Ironimplements used by ancient inhabitants—Disappearance of themaccounted for—Other ancient remains in Sutherlandshire,Ross-shire, and Inverness-shire—Bog iron was the ore used of oldin Gairloch—Processes of the ancient ironworkers—Wastefulrichness of their slags accounted for—Charcoal was theirfuel—The ancient forests of timber—Theirdisappearance—Water power anciently employed for workinghammers[72]
Chapter XVIII.—The Historic Ironworks of Loch Maree.
The present series of Scottish ironworks commenced on LochMaree—The licence to Archibald Primrose for making iron ratifiedin 1612—Spread of the iron industry in the eighteenthcentury—Iron furnaces in Glengarry—Abernethy furnaces of theYork Buildings Company—The Bonawe furnace—The Argyle FurnaceCompany—The Lorn Company—The Carron ironworks—TheWilsonton works—Furnace at Goatfield—Pennant's notice of thefurnace near Poolewe—The Fife Adventurers and the Lews—TheRev. Farquhar Macrae, vicar of Gairloch—The Letterewe furnaceestablished in 1607 by Sir George Hay—Previous history of SirGeorge—His residence at Letterewe—His ironworks—Thetimber consumed—The goods produced—The improvements heeffected—Act prohibiting the making of iron withwood—Monopoly of iron manufacture granted to SirGeorge—Ratified by Parliament—Proclamation restraining theexport of iron ore—Licence to Sir George to sell iron in royalburghs—Sir George's probable acquaintance with John Roy Mackenzie,laird of Gairloch—Sir George's friendship with the Rev. FarquharMacrae—The minister's stone—Sir George leavesLetterewe—His distinguished after-career—Created first Earlof Kinnoull—Continuance of the ironworks—Tombstone of JohnHay—His probable relationship to Sir George—Discontinuanceof the ironworks—The artisans employed—Whence theycame—The Kemps—The Cladh nan Sasunnach—Condition ofthe ironworkers in the then state of the Highlands—The BigEnglishman[75]
Chapter XIX.—The Iron Ores used in Gairloch.
References to local iron ore—Local bog iron used at ancientbloomeries—Ferruginous rocks and shales—Traditionalquarries—Richness of bog iron—Places where it is still foundin Gairloch—Bog iron originally used by Sir George Hay—Heafterwards imported red hematite and clayband ironstone—Mr Marr'sdescription of these ores—They were landed atPoolewe—Remains of them there—Mr Macadam'sanalyses—Mixture with local ore—Classification of theores[86]
Chapter XX.—Remains of Ironworks in the Parish of Gairloch.
Mr Macadam's description of two classes of slag—List of sixlocalities of ironworks—GlenDochartie—Fasagh—Analyses—Lochan Cul naCathrach—Furnace, Letterewe—Talladale—Garavaig, onSlatadale farm—Red Smiddy, near Poolewe—Iron articlesfound—The borings at Cuil an Scardain—Chronological order ofthe ironworks—Other supposed furnaces—Notices of ironworksor mines in old Dutch map, and in "Present State of Great Britain andIreland"—Conclusion[90]
Chapter XXI.—Antiquities.
Want of interesting remains of ancient buildings—SupposedDruidical remains in Tollie wood—Druidical enclosure on IsleMaree—The Island of Justice—Pictish roundhouses—Vitrified fort—Ancient duns, strongholds, orcrannogs—Remains of churches—Gairlochchurch—Culinellan church—Turf-built church in TollieBay—Church at Tollie Croft, or Cruive End—Chapel ofInverewe—Chapel of Sand of Udrigil—Oldburial-grounds—Remains of other old buildings—Remains onIsle Maree—On Eilean Ruaridh Beag—On EileanSuainne—The Tigh Dige—The Sabhal-Geal—The Templehouse—Old houses—Ancient weapons and implements—TheFeill Iudha—Caves[97]

Part II.—Inhabitants of Gairloch.

Chapter I.—Ancestry and Names.
Highlanders different to Scotch—Gairloch people originallyCeltic—Admixture of blood—Mackenziespredominant—Surnames little used—Mode of constructing Gaelicnames—Examples—Bynames—Curious names of girls[109]
Chapter II.—Warfare and Weapons.
Gairloch a bone of contention—Broadsword and targe—Bows andarrows—Battle-axe—Dirk—Guns—Clan fights nomore—Seaforth Highlanders—A Gairloch company—Thepress-gang—Donald M'Lean returns "from hell"—Volunteercorps—Story of Finlay Fraser and his guns[112]
Chapter III.—Polity and Customs.
Improvement after the "Forty-five"—Increase ofschools—Report on educational position of the people by Rev. JamesRussell—Education under the School Boards—Relief of thepoor—Beggars almost unknown—Tramps—Tinkers—Oldman seeking America—Her Majesty's note about him—Oldmarriage customs—Funeral customs—Whisky atfunerals—Heaps of stones at halting-places—New Year's day,old style—Administration of justice at the Island ofJustice—Mode of procedure—The Cnoc a Chroich, or GallowsHill—Some old Gairloch men acquainted with folk-lore[114]
Chapter IV.—Religion and Religious Observances.
No records of Episcopal times—Sundayservices—Baptism—The Lord's supper dispensed in the Leabaidhna Ba Bàine—Dr Mackenzie's account of churchgoing and thecommunions—Johnnie at church for the first time—Five days'services—Large crowd; few communicants—Preparation forGairloch communion—The scene in the Leabaidh—AuntSally—Characteristics of Free Church services and religion[117]
Chapter V.—Character and Characteristics.
Criticism invidious—Gairloch people have a goodcharacter—Fidelity, courtesy, and hospitality—Sir G. S.Mackenzie's opinion—Sir Francis Mackenzie's tribute to hisGairloch people—Attachment to home—Caution and keenness inmoney matters—Anecdote—Captain Burt's charge of want ofcleanliness not generally applicablenow—Morality—Indolence—Always behindtime—Clinging to old ways—Old Highland esprit dyingout—Annual competition recommended[121]
Chapter VI.—Language and Dress.
Gaelic called Irish—Gairloch dialect—Not dyingout—Knowledge of English increasing—Old people still unableto speak English—Gaelic phrases in English—Gaelic literaturein Gairloch—Should Gaelic be discouraged?—Ancient dress inGairloch—Belted plaid or truis—Separate form of thekilt—Antiquity of the kilt—Highland dressproscribed—Subterfuges—Discouraged homespunfabrics—Kilt common in Gairloch in early part ofnineteenth century—Sir Francis Mackenzie on the kilt—Nowfallen into disuse—Present dress of men—Gairlochhose—Dress of women—The mutch—Maiden'sheaddress—Dr Mackenzie on maiden's hair and on mutches[125]
Chapter VII.—Ways and Means.
Sources of livelihood—Industry ofwomen—Dwellings—Byres adjoining—Nochimneys—Gradual improvement—Gardens rare—Fevers andconsumption—Food—Absence of pigs—Whisky—Illicitdistillation—Fuel—Torasgian—Cabar lar—Peatcreel—Carts—Sledges before roads were made[132]
Chapter VIII.—Agriculture and Stock.
Little agriculture in ancient days—Black cattle—Blood takenfrom living cattle—The bowmen—Hill shielings miserableplaces—Introduction of sheep farming—Sheep farmsforested—Sheep deteriorate pasture—Ancient breed ofsheep—Present farms—Run-rig—Crofts established inGairloch—Crofters' crops—The cas-chrom—Sir G. S.Mackenzie on imperfect agriculture—On indolence—The Highlandhusbandman—His negligence—Sir Francis Mackenzie on imperfectcultivation—On manures—On the cas-chrom—On lack ofindustry—On absence of gardens—Introduction of the potato[136]
Chapter IX.—Fisheries.
Gairloch fishermen and fish—Herring fisheries—Lobsters andcrabs—Oysters—Gairloch cod fishery—Under Sir AlexanderMackenzie, 1721 to 1766—In 1792—Sir G. S. Mackenzie'saccount of it under Sir Hector—Lines and hooks formerlyhome-made—First foreign hooks in 1823—Cod fishery in 1884and 1885—Salmon fishery—Bag-nets—Diminution in stockof salmon[143]
Chapter X.—Posts and Roadmaking.
Post-runners to Gairloch—Dr Mackenzie's account—DonaldCharles—Roderick M'Lennan—WilliamCross—M'Leay—Iain Mor am Post—General Wade'sroad—Bridges in Gairloch—Road from Gairloch toPoolewe—The Dowager Lady Mackenzie's account ofroad-making—Destitution Committee contribute toroad-making—Road to Fionn loch[147]
Chapter XI.—Superstitions of Isle Maree.
Isle Maree conspicuous—The wishing-tree—Her Majesty'soffering—St Maelrubha permitted sacrifices ofbulls—Continued to 1678—Latterly associated with cure ofinsanity—Treatment of lunatics—Still continued—DrMitchell's description—Circular enclosure supposed to beDruidical—Graves of the prince and princess—Thewell—Description of the wishing-tree—Trees of IsleMaree—Probability of the legend of Isle Maree—Name of islandderived from St Maelrubha—St Maelrubha worshipped[150]
Chapter XII.—Superstitions of Isle Maree—continued.
Druidical sacrifices engrafted on Christianity—Resort to IsleMaree for cure of lunacy probably ancient—Parallelsuperstitions—Bull sacrifice at Kirkcudbright—Sacrifices ofbulls not confined to the saint's day—Descriptions of proceedingsfor cure of lunatics—MacCulloch's description—No form ofwords—Recent cases—St Maelrubha and St Ruffusidentical—Mad dog dipped in the well—Sadconsequences—Quotations as to Pagan practices engrafted onChristianity[153]
Chapter XIII.—Superstitions generally.
Highlanders' surroundings suggest superstition—Gradual diminutionof it—Older superstitions—Loch Maree water cure—TheFox Point—Coins found—The Cathair mor and SitheananDubha—Gairloch fairy tale—The Shiant Isles'fairy—Eilean Suainne—Fairies seen on Isle Ewe in1883—Lights and music of fairies noticed at MellonCharles—William M'Lean gets a bagpipe chanter from thefairies—The Gille Dubh of Loch a Druing—Superstitiousfancies—The Loch of the Beast—Evidence of the appearance ofthe beast—Proceedings for its suppression—Rorie and themermaid[158]
Chapter XIV.—Witchcraft and Magic.
Rudha Chailleach—Witchcraft and magic still believedin—Jessie the cripple, a witch—Depriving milk of itsfruit—Kenlochewe case in presbytery records—KennethMackenzie, the maighstair sgoil, punishes the witch at Strath—Hiscows recover—Recent cases—The sian—Description ofit—Duncan M'Rae—His song—Entrusted with a keg of goldfor Prince Charlie—Hides the keg in the Fedan Mor—Renders itinvisible by the sian—The wife of the Cibear Mor sees thekeg—The cave at Meallan a Ghamhna—The cave and weaponsconcealed by the sian—Seen by several women recently—Anothersimilar case on Loch Maree—Alastair Mor an t' Sealgair—Runsthe blockade by means of the sian—His variations of thesian—Other examples of Alastair's and his father'spowers—The wind made favourable by magic[163]
Chapter XV.—Visions and Second-sight.
Distinction between visions and second-sight—Old Alastair's visionof Hector Roy and his bodyguard—A young man sees a ghost—Twomen see a woman in a house—Spectre seen before a shoot—Twokinds of second-sight—Jessie the cripple—Ducked as awitch—Her vision of a shepherd, his dog and sheep,fulfilled—The smith's son sees a crowd on Poolewe bridge—Hisvision fulfilled—The great storm on Loch Ewe—Great sight atMellon Udrigil—Fleet of ships and boats filled with redcoats—Visions of soldiers in red uniforms near Inveran—Thesevisions compared with similar sights elsewhere[169]
Chapter XVI.—Bards and Pipers.
Ancient bards an illustrious class—Ossian's poems—Office ofbard or seannachie—Bards of recentdate—Ceilidh—Antiquity of bagpipes—Office of piper inold days—In the present day—Love of pipe music inGairloch—Some old Gairloch bards—Ruaridh Breac—TheEnglish bard—Duncan M'Rae—Roderick Campbell, piper andfiddler—The Piobaire Ban—List of living Gairloch pipers[173]
Chapter XVII.—Hereditary Pipers of the Gairloch Family.
The Mackays—Rorie Mackay, piper to John RoyMackenzie—Alastair Breac, and his son and grandson—Hisbrother Donald—John Mackay, the blind piper—Taught by theM'Crimmons—Piper to the two first baronets of Gairloch—Hiscompositions—Anecdotes of his life with the M'Crimmons—Hissongs and poems—Angus Mackay—Piper to Sir Alexander, thirdbaronet—Moladh Mairi—John Mackay, piper to SirHector—Emigrates to America—A splendid piper—Hisoffspring[177]
Chapter XVIII.—William Mackenzie and Malcolm Maclean.
William Mackenzie a catechist—His song to Balone'ssister—His song lampooning a wedding party—His consequentdismissal—Malcolm Maclean a notorious bacchanalian—Hisbeautiful daughter—His wife's resignation illustrated by ananecdote—Translation by Professor Blackie of his song to hisdaughter[180]
Chapter XIX.—William Ross, the Gairloch Bard.
William Ross, a grandson of the "Blind piper"—His youth—Histravels—Appointed schoolmaster of Gairloch—Diesyoung—Monument over his grave—Estimate of his poetry[183]
Chapter XX.—Alexander Campbell, Bard To Sir Hector.
Alastair Buidhe's ancestry and youth—Appointed ground-officer andbard to Sir Hector—Instructed to remove the roof from a defaultingtenant's house—His prudent artifice approved by SirHector—Dr Mackenzie's recollections of Alastair as bard—Hisbad health, and death—His character—His friendship withWilliam Ross—His descendants—His poetry highlyappreciated[185]
Chapter XXI.—Alexander Grant, the Great Bard of Slaggan.
Sandy Grant's ancestry—His enormous stature and strength—Hisappearance, portrait, and poetry—Reputed to havesecond-sight—Anecdote—Sandy Grant discovers cheeses stolenin Loch Carron—His descendants[187]
Chapter XXII.—John Mackenzie of the "Beauties."
John's ancestry and youth—His mechanical skill—An accidentdisables him—Collects Gaelic poems—Devotes himself toliterary work—List of books he translated—Known as a poetand piper—Anecdote of his humour—Buys a ship and hercargo—Gives up the bargain—Monument to his memory[189]
Chapter XXIII.—Living Gairloch Bards.
Alexander Mackenzie, of Oban—Duncan Mackenzie, the Kenlochewebard—Short memoir—His poetry—His epithalamium on themarriage of Sir Kenneth Mackenzie—Translation of it by ProfessorBlackie—Alexander Cameron, the Tournaig bard—His song inpraise of Tournaig—English translation by Mr W. C.Good—Alexander Bain—His elegy on the late DrKennedy—English translation[192]
Chapter XXIV.—The Poolewe Artist.
Paucity of art in Gairloch—Finlay Mackinnon—Hischaracteristics—His yearning for art as a young boy—Assistedby Mr Davis, R.A., and others—His watercolour sketches[200]
Chapter XXV.—James Mackenzie's Gairloch Stories.
Short Account of James Mackenzie—William Roy Mackenzie and theexciseman—Kenneth and John Mackenzie of Rona and thepress-gang—John M'Gregor of Londubh escapes from the press-gang,but is killed by a fall over a rock—Murdo Mackenzie, or Murdo'sson, marries Lord Breadalbane's daughter and takes possession of alugger full of smuggled spirit—Anecdote of Sir Hector Mackenzieand M'Leod of Raasay's boat—Mackenzie of Kernsary and JamesMackenzie's grandfather—The whale in Loch Ewe drowns threemen—A story of Rob Donn—The Loch Broom herringfishery—The other Rob Roy Macgregor and the Dundonnellestates—Cases of drowning in Loch Maree—Hector Mackenzie,William Urquhart and his son, and Kenneth Mackenzie—A Kenlocheweman rolls overboard—Kenneth Mackenzie and Gregor Macgregor carrieddown by the Talladale river—John M'Ryrie—KennethUrquhart—Sandy Mackenzie—The Stornoway packet and thewhale—Wreck of M'Callum's schooner at Melvaig—A sea captainburied in Isle Ewe—The loss of the "Glenelg"—Wreck of the"Helen Marianne" of Campbeltown—Wreck of the "Lord Molyneux" ofLiverpool—John Macdonald, the drover of Loch Maree—Themurder of Grant, the peddler, by M'Leod, who is at lengthhung—Death of the Shieldaig shoemaker and his companions atLochinver[201]

Part III.—Natural History of Gairloch.

Chapter I.—Physical Features.
Area and boundaries of Gairloch—Sea-board—Long valleybisecting the parish—Ranges and groups of mountains—Islandsin the sea—Fresh-waterlochs—Rivers—Woods—Caves—Waterfalls—TheSteall a Mhuinidh—Victoria Falls—Letterewewaterfall—Kerry falls—Flowerdale waterfalls—Scenicbeauties[219]
Chapter II.—Climate and Weather.
Healthy climate of north-west Highlands—Changeableweather—Sir G. S. Mackenzie on the climate—Dr Mackenzie onthe old-fashioned summers—Former abundance ofnuts—Strawberries on 4th June, also cherries—Short summernights—Aurora borealis—Rarity of intensefrosts—Spring mist presages snow—A hard winter—Sunsetsfrom the Gairloch Hotel—Cloudscapes—Colouring oflandscapes[222]
Chapter III.—Anecdotes and Notes.
Birds, formerly rare in Gairloch, now plentiful, and viceversâ—Dr Mackenzie's remarks on this point—Eagles inGairloch—Anecdote of Craig-Tollie eagle and roedeer—Confirmation from Martin's book—Also from story ofKirghiz eagles, &c.—Anecdote of Kenlochewe eagle and thecat—Subject of a well-known Gaelic riddle—Eagle atTalladale—Two-and-a-half brace of eagles killed in Gairloch beforebreakfast—Sea-gulls—How they were driven from EileanRuaridh—Sounds of various birds atInveran—Insects—Midges and wasps—Her Majesty's remarkson them—Rhyme on midges—Preventive measures—Otherinsects—Animals in general—Vermin—Marten'sfur—Wild cats—Wild cat in Loch Tollie island—Highlandcattle—Goats—Ponies[227]
Chapter IV.—Lower Forms of Life.
Diffusion of life—Luminosity of footprints on boggyground—Reptiles—Fresh-waterfish—Shells—Molluscs—The spout fish—How to takeit—Sea anemones—Love of flowers—Localities recommendedto botanists—Grasses—Mosses—Lichens—List of afew—Seaweeds—Fungi—Conclusion[233]
Chapter V.—Mammals of Gairloch.
List of Gairloch mammals, with notes—Notes on Arctic fox inGairloch and elsewhere[236]
Chapter VI.—Birds of Gairloch.
List of Gairloch birds, with notes[241]
Chapter VII.—Flowering Plants of Gairloch.
List imperfect—A word to visitors—Destruction of plants bysheep—Bouquets of wildflowers—Seasons for them—Rarerplants—List of flowering plants[256]
Chapter VIII.—Shells of Gairloch, by Rev. John M'Murtrie, M.A.
Paper by Rev. John M'Murtrie, M.A., on "Springtide at Gairloch, a Studyof small Shells"—Appendix, with list of shells[265]
Chapter IX.—The Geology of Loch Maree and Neighbourhood, byWilliam Jolly, F.G.S., F.R.S.E.
Long controversy—Attack by eminent geologists—Others enterthe lists—Prospect of early peace—Conditions of the problemwell exhibited round Loch Maree—Succession ofrocks—Hebridean gneiss—Torridon redsandstone—Quartzite—Its annelid borings—Its fucoidremains—Limestone—The "Logan" rock—The easterngneiss—The controversy—Other noteworthy geologicalphenomena—Faults—Glaciation—Denudation—Rockjunctions—The valley of the hundred hills—Curiousimpressions on Torridon sandstone near Talladale—The Fionn andDubh loch—The Trias at Loch Gruinard[271]
Chapter X.—Minerals of Gairloch, by Professor W. Ivison Macadam,F.C.S., F.I.C., M.M.S., &c., Edinburgh.
List of minerals andlocalities[289]