| Chapter I.—Gairloch of the Present Day. |
| No town in Gairloch—List of townships or hamlets—Ministersand services—Free churches andministers—Schools—School Board—Table of Schools, withaverage attendance—List of school teachers—Sideschools—School rate—Obstacles to regularattendance—Annual inspections—Registrar of Births, Deaths,and Marriages—Pauperism—Poor-rates—Pauperlunatics—Medical officer—The county road—Privateroads—Policemen—Justices of the Peace—Licensedhouses—Postalarrangements—Telegraph—Carrier—Bank—Markets—Preventiveservice—Steamers—Rifle corps—Its threesections—Principal houses in Gairloch—Poolewe Public Hall | [293] |
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| Chapter II.—Approaches and Roads. |
| Approach from Achnasheen—From Loch Carron—From LochTorridon—From Gruinard—By steamer—By boat fromUllapool—On foot—Main road maintained by thecounty—Private roads—Loch Maree a highway | [299] |
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| Chapter III.—Achnasheen to Kenlochewe. |
| Dingwall and Skye railway—The Gairloch mail-car—Naturalterraces like railway embankments—Loch Rosque—Remains ofancient ironworks—The Clach an t' Shagart at Bad aMhanaich—Luibmhor in Gairloch—View of ScuirMhullin—Persistent inquirer—Hill resembling aprofile—Glen Dochartie—View of LochMaree—Trysting-place—More old ironworks—View of BeinnEay—Kenlochewe—Hugh Miller on this name—Kenlochewevillage and hotel—Culinellan churchyard—The Cnoc aChrochadair—Ath nan ceann—Two routes to Gairloch | [301] |
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| Chapter IV.—Kenlochewe to Talladale. |
| Tagan farm—Glas Leitire woods—Ru Nohar—Umbrella-likefirs—Her Majesty's description of the road—GlenGrudidh—Old fir trees—Eilean Grudidh—Wild stretch ofroad described by Her Majesty—Hamlet of Talladale—The LochMaree Hotel—Accommodation—Angling—Visit of HerMajesty—Commemorative Gaelic inscription on aboulder—English translation | [305] |
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| Chapter V.—Talladale to the Gairloch Hotel. |
| Road through woods—The Victoria Falls—Garavaigironworks—Slatadale farm—Old road to west of CraigTollie—View of the islands of Loch Maree—Feurloch—Loch Bad na Sgalaig—Kerry falls—Kerrybridge—Her Majesty's interview with Lews' peoplehere—Kerrysdale House—Resort offairies—Charleston—Flowerdale House—Port naheile—The Gairloch—Established church—The Leabaidh naBa Bàine—Gairloch churchyard—Old ironworks—Monument toJohn Mackenzie of the "Beauties"—The Crasg—The Cnoc aCroiche—The Gairloch Hotel—Accommodation andarrangement—Sea-bathing—Boating—Angling—Fineview | [308] |
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| Chapter VI.—The Gairloch Hotel to Poolewe. |
| Achtercairn—Views of Strath and the hills of Skye—Deepgorge—Geikie on geology of a curious hill—TheShoe-stone—Funeral heaps—Lochan nan Airm—TheGlen—Craig Bhadain an Aisc—Blar na Fala—LochTollie—Its crannog—Surrounding hills—Distantviews—Old road—View of Loch Maree—Beinn AridhCharr—Spidean Moirich—Croft Brae—Hamlet ofCroft—Ceann a Chro, or Cruive End—The Still—The Hillof evil counsel—The Trossachs of Loch Maree—Poolewevillage—The church—The inn—Pool House—Otherhouses—Londubh—The Inverewe burial-ground | [312] |
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| Chapter VII.—Poolewe to Aultbea. |
| The pool—Srondubh—Inverewe House andgardens—Description from the Times—Loch nanDailthean—Tournaig—The Dowager Lady Mackenzie'sresidence—Description of the garden from the Times—CoileAigeascaig—Mac Gille Riabhaich's cave—Bleeding livingcattle—Tournaig farm—Loch Tournaig—Dunan—Theroadascends—Views—Drumchork—Aultbea—Townships—Houses—Anchorage—Aultbeainn | [318] |
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| Chapter VIII.—Excursions from Kenlochewe. |
| Drives—Expedition to Loch Torridon—Cromasaig—FeLeoid—Loch Clair—Maelrubha's seat—CarnAnthony—Coire Cheud Cnoc—Precipices of Liathgach—HerMajesty's remarks—Sguir Dubh—Lochan an Fheidh—LochTorridon—Village—Mr Darroch and Torridon House—Ploc ofTorridon—The heights of Kenlochewe—Glen CruaidhChoillie—Glen na Muic—Excursions on foot by the path on theeast side of Loch Maree—Excursions on Loch Maree | [321] |
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| Chapter IX.—Excursions from Talladale. |
| Drives and walks—Expeditions on Loch Maree—Thesteamer—Boats | [326] |
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| Chapter X.—Excursions from Gairloch. |
| The south side of Gairloch—Shieldaig—Leac nanSaighead—Badachro—Loch Bad na h' Achlais—PortHenderson—Opinan—Cave—South Erradale—Ancientironworks—Point—Views—North side ofGairloch—Achtercairn—Strath—Carn Dearg—LittleSand farm—Big Sand—Iron furnace—North Erradale—Wonderfulcave—Peterburn—Altgreshan—Melvaig—TheLeac—Rudha Reidh—Stac Buidhe—Other drives—Tourof Loch Maree—Boating expeditions—Walks—Geikie ongeological features | [327] |
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| Chapter XI.—Excursions from Poolewe. |
| West side of Loch Ewe—Cliff House—Cuil anScardain—Boor—Views—Naast—Inverasdale—Brae—Midtown—Coast—Boardschool—Firemore—Telegraph to Stornoway—Meallan naGhamhna—Caves—Loch a Druing woods—Cove—Thevillage—The cave—Natural arch—Fionn Lochexcursion—Craig an Fhithich—Inveran wood andfarm—Inveran river—Loch Kernsary—Innis aBhaird—Kernsary farm—Fionn Loch—Fine view—Otherexcursions by road—Walks—Craig Bhan | [332] |
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| Chapter XII.—Excursions from Aultbea. |
| To Mellon Charles—Cuilchonich—Bual na luib—MellonCharles—Mellon Udrigil—Laide—The Loch of theBeast—Second Coast—Old church of Sand—Sandybeach—Curious rocks—First Coast and Second Coast—MillBay—Cadha Beag—LittleGruinard—Fisherfield—Meikle Gruinard river—Excursionsby water | [337] |
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| Chapter XIII.—Excursion by Steamer on Loch Maree. |
| Road to north end of Loch Maree—Opinions of thescenery—Leading characteristics—Tollie pier—FoxPoint—Clearness of water—Sweetheart'sstepping-stones—Fhridh Dhorch—Ardlair—Cave of theking's son—The minister's stone—Clach a Mhail—Uamh aMhail—Rudha Chailleach—The white horse—The Bullrock—The cave of gold—Gold mining inScotland—Mountains—Letterewe—Limestonequarry—Waterfall—Furnace—InnisGhlas—Coppachy—Regoilachy—Slioch—Cladh nanSasunnach—Fasagh—Tagan—Ru Nohar—Undercliffs ofMeall a Ghiubhais—Woods of Glas Leitire—View of GlenGrudidh—Aid na h' Eigheamh—Isle Maree—Whittier'sverses—Eilean Suainne—Eilean Dubh na Sroine—GarbhEilean—Eilean Ruaridh—The planted island—Wildfowl—Talladale—Slatadale—Doire—CraigTollie—Bay of Corree—Rudha Aird anAnail—Cave—Heather burning | [340] |
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| Chapter XIV.—The Fionn Loch and its Dubh Loch, by WilliamJolly. |
| Name—Approaches—Loch Kernsary—View of FionnLoch—Mountains described—Visits to the loch—LochananBeannoch—Beinn Aridh Charr—Black-throated divers—BeinnLair—Narrow glen—Old hill fort—Craig an DubhLoch—Pegmatite—Dubh Loch—Thundershower—Islands—Birds—Marten cats | [349] |
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| Chapter XV.—Loch Gruinard, by William Jolly. |
| Loch Ewe—Mountain view—Aultbea—Moraines—SummerIsles—Distant views—Old Chapel—Caves—ModernCave-dweller—Gruinard House—Gruinard river—Mountainsof Loch na Sheallag | [355] |
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| Chapter XVI.—Angling in Sea Lochs. |
| Several classes of anglers—Outfit recommended—Two usualmodes of sea fishing—Trolling for lythe—Artificialsand-eels—Handline fishing—Scalps—Fishescaptured—Conger eels—Large halibut—Large skate | [359] |
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| Chapter XVII.—Angling in Loch Maree. |
| Excessive fishing—Reserved water—Species offish—Char—Salmon—Sea-trout—Bull-trout—Finnocks—Propertyin salmon and sea-trout—Large brown trout—Ferox not aseparate species—Variations in trout—So-called ferox notworth eating—Gizzard trout | [361] |
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| Chapter XVIII.—Angling in Fresh-water Lochs. |
| Permission required—Trout scarcer than formerly—Dr Mackenzieaccounts for this—The tarry sheep—Fionn Loch—Anglingdeteriorated—Good day's angling—The Dubh loch—Threetrout at a cast—Bait fishing for trout—LochKernsary—Char—Char and trout, and pink and white-fleshedtrout, indistinguishable to the taste—Burn fishing—Best timefor trout fishing—Eels—Pike—Their introductiondescribed by Dr Mackenzie—Re-introduced in Sir Kenneth's time | [363] |
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| Chapter XIX.—Salmon Angling. |
| Salmon rivers—The Ewe—Cruives—The old cruive used forcrossing the river—Roderick Campbell and an American merchantdrowned—The new cruive—Gradual diminution of stock ofsalmon—Length of the Ewe—Pools on the east side—Poolson the other side—Runs of salmon andgrilse—Kelts—Bull-trout—Sea-trout—Largesalmon—Best flies—Dr Mackenzie's anecdote of Sir HumphreyDavy—John Bright—Odd incidents—Damagedfly—Successful fishing after a friend—Hooking a fish afterlosing another—Was it a rise?—Fish taking when lineslack—Kelt caught twice—Holding on for fivehours—Angler compared to the evilone—Water-bailiffs—John Glas—Sandy Urquhart—Hisloquacity—Fishing on the Ewe—Tailing salmon—Spikedgloves—Bags of salmon now and formerly—Singular mode offishing by Sir Hector—Charms of the Ewe—Other salmon riversin Gairloch | [366] |
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| Chapter XX.—Deer Forests and Grouse Shooting. |
| The red deer—Free to roam—Antiquity of—Formerlyscarce—Meaning of "forested"—List of deerforests—Estimated yield and stock—Stag season—A"royal"—Best heads—Hinds—Deer-stalking—Greatcaution required—Staghounds not much used now—Quotation fromJohn Taylor, the "Water-Poet"—Present system of letting deerforests—Colonel Inge in Gairloch—Misconceptions with regardto deer forests—Opinions of the CroftersCommission—Depopulation not due to deer forests—Deer forestsnot suitable for occupation by crofters—Loss of mutton and woolinsignificant—Depredations by deer on crofters' crops easilyremedied—Deterioration of pasture by deer notproved—Demoralization of gillies not due to forests—Summaryof opinions—Substantial benefits conferred by deerforests—Afford employment to a greater extent than sheepfarms—Recommendation by Commissioners—Grouseshooting—Grouse not abundant—Disease infrequent—Latebirds—Mixed bags—Separate grouse shootings | [372] |
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