The wonders of the world

by John Loraine Abbott

There are more things in heaven and earth

Than are dreamt of in our philosophy.—Shakspeare.

The variety of fossil substances, many of them marine productions, which are found in mountains remote from the sea, are undeniable proofs that the earth’s surface has undergone considerable changes, some of which indicate an alteration of climate not easily to be explained. The remains of animals inhabiting hot countries, and the marine productions of hot climates, which are frequently found in high northern latitudes, lead to a suspicion that the earth’s axis was at a very remote period differently inclined from what it is at present. The tropics now extend twenty-three degrees and a half on each side the equator; but if they were extended to forty-five degrees, then the arctic circle and the tropics would coincide, and thence would arise inconceivable variations in the productions and phenomena of the earth. All this would form an amusing speculation to a person possessed of a terrestrial globe, who might tie a thread round it to represent the tropics at forty-five degrees of elevation.

By the gradual operation of the sea and of rivers, the face of the globe has, in the course of ages, undergone very material changes. The former has encroached in particular parts, and retired from others; and the mouths of large rivers, running through low countries, have often been variously modified, by a deposition and transfer of the matter washed down from the land. At Havre, the sea undermines the steep coast; while it recedes at Dunkirk, where the shore is flat. In Holland the Zuyder Zee was probably formed, in the middle ages, by continual irruptions of the sea, where only the small lake Flevo had before existed. The mouths of the Rhine have been considerably altered, as well in their dimensions as in their directions. The mud, as it is deposited by large rivers, generally causes a delta, or a triangular piece of land, to grow out into the sea. Thus the mouth of the Mississippi is said to have advanced above fifty miles since the discovery of America. The island called Sandy Hook, at the entrance of the harbor of New York, was formerly a peninsula attached to the main land. The old citizens of New Haven, Connecticut, point out places where once boats, and even small vessels, used to anchor, but which are now at quite a distance from the water and covered with the dwellings of the inhabitants. Most of the large rivers of the United States are more or less changing their banks, and the places of their channels, from year to year. The sea, within the space of forty years, has retired more than a mile from Rosetta, in Egypt; and the mouths of the Arno, and of the Rhone, consist in a great measure of new land.

The Javanese have a tradition, that in former times the islands of Sumatra, Java, Bali and Sumbawa, were united, and afterward separated into nine different parts. They add, that when three thousand rainy seasons shall have passed away, they will be united. In the Mediterranean, geological phenomena evince, that the island of Malta, and that of Gozo, its dependency, now separated by a wide channel, and the intermediate small island of Cumino, formed, together with the latter, a single island. By the encroachments of the sea, and the subsidence of some parts of the land, the islands of Scilly, the aboriginal inhabitants of which carried on a considerable trade in tin with the Phenicians, Greeks and Romans, are now little more than barren rocks, with small patches of earth interspersed in the hollows. Strabo describes the Phenicians as having been so jealous of their lucrative traffic with these islands, that they ran a vessel purposely on shore, and risked the lives of the crew, rather than have it made known to the Romans. The land within which these tin mines were worked, must now be sunk, and buried beneath the sea. On the shifting of the sands between the islands, walls and ruins are frequently seen; the difference of level, since these walls or fences were made, to prevent the encroachments of the sea, being estimated at sixteen feet. There is little doubt but that there must have been a subsidence of the land, followed by a sudden inundation. This, indeed, seems to be confirmed by tradition, there being a strong persuasion in the western parts of Cornwall, that there formerly existed a large country between the Land’s-end and the islands of Scilly, now laid many fathoms under water. Although there are no positive evidences of such an ancient connection between the main land and these islands, still it is extremely probable, that the cause of the inundation which destroyed the greater part of them, may have reached the Cornish shores, there being several proofs of a subsidence of the land in Mount’s bay. The principal anchoring place, which was called a lake, is now a haven, or open harbor; and the mount, from its Cornish name, signifying the gray rock in a wood, must have formerly stood in a wood, but is now at full tide half a mile in the sea.

Examples of a similar kind, relative to every known country, might be multiplied. One of the most considerable inundations to be met with in history, is that which happened in the reign of Henry I. and which overflowed the estates of Earl Goodwin, forming the banks called the Goodwin or Godwin sands. In the year 1546, a similar irruption of the sea destroyed a hundred thousand persons in the territory of Dort, in the United Provinces, and a still greater number round Dollart. In Friezland and Zealand more than three hundred villages were overwhelmed; and their remains are still visible, on a clear day, at the bottom of the water. The Baltic sea has, by slow degrees, covered a large part of Pomerania; and, among others, overwhelmed the famous port of Vineta. The Norwegian sea has formed several little islands from the main land, and still daily advances on the continent. The German sea has advanced on the shores of Holland, near Catt, to such a degree, that the ruins of an ancient citadel of the Romans, formerly built on that coast, are now under water. The country surrounding the isle of Ely was, in the time of Bede, about a thousand years ago, one of the most delightful and highly cultivated spots in Great Britain: it was overwhelmed, and remained for several centuries under the water, until at length, the sea, by a caprice similar to the one which had prompted its invasions, abandoned the earth, but without the latter being able to recover its primitive state, that of one of the most fertile valleys in the world.

On the other hand, the sea has in many instances, deserted the land; and by the deposition of its sediment in some places, and the accumulation of its sands in others, has also formed new lands. In this manner the isle of Oxney, near Romney marsh, was produced. In France, the town of Aigues Mortes, which was a seaport in the time of Louis IX., is now removed more than four miles from the sea. Psalmodi, also in that kingdom, was an island in the year 815, and is now upward of six miles within the land. In Italy, a considerable portion of land has been gained at the mouth of the river Arno; and Ravenna, which once stood by the sea-side, is now between four and five miles from it. Every part of Holland seems to be a conquest from the sea, and to have been rescued, in a manner, from its bosom. The industry of man, however, in the formation of dikes, is here to be brought into account; for the surface of the earth, in that country, is for the greater part below the surface of the sea.

Three-fifths of the surface of the globe are covered by the sea, the average depth of which has been estimated at from five to ten miles. Demonstrative proofs exist in Great Britain, and in various parts of the world, that great changes have taken place in the relative positions of the present continents with the ocean, which, in former ages, rolled its waves over the summits of our present elevated mountains. To illustrate this subject, and before these proofs are entered on, in the consideration of the geological phenomena named extraneous fossils, it will be proper to introduce the pleasing and truly philosophical view of the successive changes the earth has undergone, contained in Sir Richard Phillips’s Morning Walk to Kew. In passing near the banks of the Thames, Sir Richard was led, in two several places, to introduce the following observations and reflections on this highly curious and interesting subject. They apply the principles and facts of geology in a way in which they may be applied to any river, and indicate how much we are daily surrounded by the wonders of creation, the process of which, as Sir Richard observes, is never ceasing. In passing over the alluvial flat of Barnes common, he introduces the following thoughts, which are given in very nearly his own language.

“On this common, nature still appears to be in a primeval and unfinished state. The entire flat from the high ground to the Thames, is evidently a mere fresh-water formation, of comparatively modern date, created out of the rocky ruins which the rains, in a series of ages, have washed from the high grounds, and further augmented by the decay of local vegetation. The adjacent high lands, being elevated above the action of the fresh water, were no doubt marine formations, created by the flowing of the sea during the long period when the earth was last in its perihelion during our summer months; which was probably thousands of years since. The flat, or freshwater formation, on which I was walking, still only approaches its completion; and the desiccated soil has not yet fully defined the boundaries of the river. At spring-tides, particularly when the line of the moon’s apsides coincides with the syzygies, or when the ascending node is in the vernal equinox, or after heavy rains, the river still overflows its banks, and indicates its originally extended site under ordinary circumstances.

“The state of transition also appears in marshes, bogs and ponds, which, but for the interference of man, would, many ages ago, have been filled up with decayed forests and the remains of undisturbed vegetation. Rivers thus become agents of the never-ceasing creation, and a means of giving greater equality to the face of the land. The sea as it retired, either abruptly from some situations, or gradually from others, left dry land, consisting of downs and swelling hills, disposed in all the variety which would be consequential on a succession of floods and ebbs during several thousand years. These downs, acted upon by rain, were mechanically, or in solution, carried off by the water to the lowest levels, the elevations being thereby depressed, and the valleys proportionally raised. The low lands became, of course, the channels through which the rains returned to the sea, and the successive deposits on their sides, hardened by the wind and sun, have in five or six thousand years, created such tracts of alluvial soil, as those which now present themselves in contiguity with most rivers. The soil, thus assembled and compounded, is similar in its nature to the rocks and hills whence it was washed; but, having been so pulverized, and so divided by solution, it forms the finest medium for the secretion of all vegetable principles, and hence the banks of the rivers are the favorite residences of man. Should the channel constantly narrow itself more and more, till it becomes choked in its course, or at its outlet, then, for a time, lakes would be formed, which, in like manner, would narrow themselves and disappear. New channels would then be formed, or the rain would so diffuse itself over the surface, that the fall and the evaporation would balance each other.