So also it is seen that the old-fashioned short heels, so long worn, have had an influence in producing the broken-down arch of the flat-foot; while other defects in the construction of the foot’s covering manifest themselves by callosities on the heel and instep, the turning over to one side, and the pressure, squeezing, and general discomfort in the fit.
We have, still further, tried to indicate what is the true, natural, and proper shape of last, and wherein it differs from those in common use. This it will do no harm to re-state. First it was proven that a correctly-formed last was not a thing to be changed by fashion or custom, but on the contrary, to be as permanent in its form as that of the foot which it imitates; that one of its peculiarities was the straight line on the inside, with the curve upon the outside; that another was the spring, or curve on the bottom; another, the additional thickness over the place of the great toe; another, the level bottom side-wise, from the shank, through the middle, forward; another, the placing of the instep nearer to the side than is done in lasts of the present time. This was offered as a positively sure preventive of all those troubles arising from distortion of the toes, while also having a tendency to encourage feet already deformed in a return to their natural state.
From several of the positions thus taken, it necessarily follows that straight lasts are entirely wrong in formation and use, and that nothing inferior to, or essentially different from, a right and left last of the form described, can fully serve the natural requirements of the foot.
For flat-footedness the long heel was recommended as one great help toward recovering the natural position of the arch. A long heel is the next best thing to no heel at all. It supports the arch the most nearly as it is supported when the bare foot is pressed upon the ground or floor. Where this will not restore the shape, it will at least be likely to prevent the fault from becoming any worse. The other remedies—the proper exercise and full development of the muscles at the bottom of the foot, and the righting of it up when it treads inward—must be considered as in no way inferior, if not superior, to the first. Taken together, they offer a strong encouragement to those who wish to overcome the weakness, while they furnish a sure prevention of it where it does not already exist.
The importance of having lasts made expressly to fit individual feet has not been sufficiently urged. Though many persons can get their feet very well fitted at any time without them, and others may be so situated that they can buy a handsomer and better article than they can get made, yet where a good shoemaker can be relied upon to make such a covering as is wanted, there is advantage in knowing how a good fit can always be obtained. This is by having a pair of lasts made as nearly right as possible, then allowing the shoemaker to test and correct them after making a first pair of boots or shoes on them, when they will be right for the remainder of a lifetime. The shoemaker may also, after making the first pair, have a pattern for any particular form of the upper, likewise corrected and made reliable for further use. The expense of such lasts is not great, and the custom shoemaker can himself furnish those from his own stock for a large proportion of his customers, altering and fitting them up as may be necessary, and supplying their places with others from the last-maker. They will need to be so fitted up that they can be slightly raised or lessened in size for thick or thin stockings, or an increase or decrease of flesh. If a perfect fit is not made when they are used the second time, a further slight correction will insure it. After this there will be no dissatisfaction on the part of the buyer; no fear of loss by misfits on the part of the maker. Those who have any peculiar notion about their foot-apparel can be suited. There will be very little trouble from delay, or from getting the foot accustomed to the boot when first worn. Still further, and better, the danger of making corns, bunions, grown-in nails, and sore insteps is reduced to almost nothing; for the covering, being a good fit, is neither tight nor loose, and does not pinch, cramp, or chafe any part of the foot.
All these considerations are much more forcible when the feet differ from an ordinary size and shape. A ready-made article to fit cannot be bought. It is often difficult for even the best mechanic to make work that will fit easily and handsomely upon feet that are flat, and have corns and large joints besides—a combination of difficulties he is frequently called upon to meet. There is the additional fact that many feet can seldom or never be measured twice alike, for all feet vary in size under different conditions, and some of them a great deal; and hence the uncertainty of being fitted by a shoemaker the first time he is employed.[10] But when a last of the right size, length, width, and general shape has been obtained, with all the corns, joints, sore insteps and other peculiarities fairly represented upon it, the owner may expect more comfort for the feet, and a better-looking boot, than has ever been realized for them before. But such a last cannot be made perfectly correct at first, and the customer must not be discouraged at finding a little difficulty. The final satisfaction will repay all the trouble.
A pair of lasts for boots, if made in the right way, with a good width at the shank (or just above it), while rather narrow at the top, and with a full amount of spring at the toe, can be used for making shoes and slippers, in ordinary cases, by filling up the shank with a piece of sole-leather in a way well known to custom shoemakers; although the most perfect results are obtained by having a separate pair designed for slippers and low shoes. Those who have difficult feet had better limit themselves to one pair for all kinds of coverings.
There is hence no need of feet being badly fitted because they are badly shaped, if their possessors will act upon the suggestions given. Yet it must not be expected that big joints and flat insteps can be made handsome by any degree of skill; they can be well fitted, but their shape remains visible.