A boot or shoe ought to fit easily, yet snugly and smoothly, all over the foot—around the heel and ankle as well as the forward part There is no necessity for pinching the instep or crowding the toes; no occasion for loose leather at the ankle and heel; no propriety in wrinkles over the instep of a flat foot, nor having a slipper loose at the sides. All boots must have wrinkles at the ankle, and all kinds of covering must have some across the foot at the joints. There need not be any of marked size elsewhere, nor should these be as large as they commonly are. A new boot should be put on with care to avoid making them.
The ease and grace of movement connected with feet in their normal condition, and when properly dressed, has been hinted at several times previously. This is a consideration almost entirely overlooked; yet it is not a thing of small importance. Everybody, in greater or less degree, admires grace and beauty. Nearly everyone who has a consciousness of being awkward in any way, suffers from that feeling or knowledge. This love of the beautiful is as much a part of human nature as conscience; and contributes as much to our pleasure as almost any other sentiment or affection. When turned more in this direction, as it should be, it will appreciate beauty in the feet as quickly as elsewhere. Its influence must be brought to bear in developing the true and elegant in this department, no less than in others. It should appreciate a well-formed foot, whether small or large; and a graceful, easy step in the street as well as in the ball-room. Let the shuffling or stamping gait of flat-footed persons generally, be contrasted with the light yet dignified carriage of those whose feet are properly arched; let the stiff walk of a man in tight boots be noticed, and then the step of one who goes along in a pair of light, easy shoes with low heels. The difference in each of these cases will be very plain. A person cannot walk easily and handsomely—much less run—in boots that are uncomfortable, or with corns and sore joints crying out at every step. High heels necessarily give an unnatural character to the step, because the heel of the foot does not come near the surface, as Nature intended. The weight of the body is thrown too much upon the forward part of the foot, which would seem likely to have some tendency toward breaking it down, while it prevents that very spring upon the ball and toes which is the most essential thing in graceful walking.[11]
Besides this, it is known that high heels prevent the full growth of the calf of the leg, by preventing the full exercise of those muscles which raise the heel at every step. As it is kept constantly raised already by an inch and a half of leather under it, of course there is less required of the muscles, and they are decreased in size.
Stiffness, also, has a decided effect upon the carriage of the body. One who has always worn stiff, clumsy foot-gear has a stiff, awkward walk, because all the muscles of the foot and leg brought into play by natural walking have been interfered with and cramped by the miserable clogs on the feet. As these will bend, or allow the foot to bend, but very little, there can be but little use of the muscles which form the calf of the leg and raise the heel. Hence the calf remains weak and undeveloped, instead of presenting the full, round, muscular appearance it shows in a well-developed leg, and which is so necessary to a light, easy, elastic step, and graceful movement.
The fashionable world—those people whom the earnest thinker and the practical utilitarian look upon almost as useless idlers in the community—still have their superiority in one direction, over the thinker or business man, which must be fairly acknowledged. They are artists in the matter of dress and personal ornamentation. They possess that taste and keen sense of the beautiful which forms everything around them into elegance, grace, and charm. Though they sometimes sacrifice strength and usefulness, and often go to foolish extremes, as do the plainer sort in an opposite way, yet they generally manifest a propriety in dress and surroundings which compels the admiration even of those sensible and steady ones who think so highly of the useful, but depreciate the value of beauty.
To the fashionable class, then, no less than to others we appeal to adopt a fashion in dressing the feet which will tend strongly to develop beauty in their form and appearance, and grace in all their movements. What this is, has been sufficiently well explained. It may be added that no one should be satisfied without a good fit, and an article as tasteful and carefully selected as anything that is worn upon the head, or any other part of the person. The foot has the same right to be well dressed that is possessed by any other portion of the body.
A shape of the sole that would be a compromise between the common form and the correct one, has been suggested for the benefit of those who could not be persuaded to have anything better. This is a good one for such feet as are somewhat distorted at the toes, and whose owners are not disposed to attempt any correction. But we protest against putting anything less perfect than the “Excelsior” upon young feet, that are still undeformed, and hence entitled to a covering that will correspond. Parents have no right to treat their children in such a way as to induce any of the troubles that have been described. But this they are almost sure to do, in greater or less degree, by compelling them to wear the ordinary boot and shoe. It is true the better kind cannot be obtained ready-made at first, though the demand will produce them in a reasonable time, yet some approach to the true thing can be made by a shoemaker of intelligence and ingenuity, even though, in the absence of proper lasts, he is obliged to alter and improve some which he already has. Some day the better article will be both obtainable and inexpensive. In the mean time those most interested must take the best substitute within their reach—that which comes nearest the true standard.
FOOTNOTES:
[10] To those custom shoemakers who continue trying to fit everybody without any specially-made lasts it is suggested that in some of the most difficult they make a trial shoe, the upper for it being cut from some cheap material, such as cotton drilling for representing serge or cloth, and split-leather or sheepskin for leather uppers, while a piece of insole-leather will answer for the bottom. The upper can be sewed together without lining, only some eyelets being necessary for lacing, and when drawn over such a last as is judged likely to fit the foot it may be roughly fastened down all around with a waxed thread. After trial on the customer’s foot, the upper can be ripped off and the sole-leather used for an insole or something else, while if the shoe fits badly the last is easily modified, before making a permanent article. The same plan might be tried with any new last designed for a particular foot.
[11] The effects upon the foot are not the only bad results springing from heels that are extremely high. The work of Dr. C. F. Taylor has already been quoted from to show the influence of weak ankles in developing lateral curvature of the spine. We also find in it some hints concerning stoop-shoulders, which are thus expressed.