“Man has a much narrower base of sustentation than most other animals, which renders it important that that base should not be lessened by cramping the feet in narrow shoes, rendering progression difficult, awkward, and quickly fatiguing. But probably the most serious fault in the feet-coverings is the elevated heel often given to them. By elevating the heel, besides the still narrower base given, whether in progression or standing, the anatomical relations of the whole body as an instrument of locomotion are materially changed. As in lateral curvature of the spine, a deviation from the proper position at one point may cause several other compensating curves at other points, so an improper position of one part of the locomotive apparatus will cause a succession of other false positions of other parts. By elevating the heel and constantly keeping the flexors of the feet [the muscles on the upper side] on the stretch, relief to them is instinctively sought by a slight flexion at the knee; this would destroy the perpendicularity of the figure, were not another slight flexion made at the hips; but as this would throw the trunk forward still another flexion backward is required, and then forward, etc. But in the spinal column a compromise is effected by a forward curve and inclination of the head. Thus, high heels tend to produce and permanently establish a succession of zigzags from the ankles upward, with the weight of the body supported by the tension of the muscles, and not, as in erect stature, by the bony framework.”—Theory and Practice of the Movement-Cure, p. 75.
The position here described is an approach to that assumed by old people—those “bent over by age”—who are unable from weakness to stand upright. The abdominal muscles are relaxed, the chest sinks, the head falls forward, and the spine adapts itself by bending at the neck and shoulders. The author goes on to show that these effects are felt more sensibly by women than by men, and that their diseases and weaknesses are thus rendered more aggravated, and the complete cure of them retarded or prevented by the wearing of high heels.
CHAPTER X.
Miscellaneous—Criticism of Different Forms and Fashions—Elasticity—Sensitiveness—Rubbers and Water-proof Leather—Cure for Sweating—Qualities of a good Covering.
It has been said that fashion should never be allowed to change the shape of the sole, or interfere with the form of the lasts used in the construction of the foot’s coverings. This restriction, however, does not apply to the materials of which they are made, nor the form into which the uppers may be cut. The latter may be of a great variety of forms, and the material of almost any kind or quality, and of all colours and descriptions of ornamentation. Yet there are many particulars that are matters of style now, which will give way to something different in another year, or in two or three years. Each of the different kinds of boots has certain peculiar advantages which, in addition to its being fashionable, contribute to make it popular. The side-spring boot, that has been a favourite so long, seldom slips at the heel, and this is a decidedly good point; it also, by fitting closely at the ankles, gives a feeling of snugness and security which is comfortable, while it admits of perfect freedom in all movements of the ankle in walking. There is less trouble in putting it on and off than with most other descriptions of boots and shoes which is a recommendation to many people who value time or dislike extra labour.
The Balmoral boot for ladies has its recommendation in its superiority of fit. This has made, and keeps it, a favourite, causing it to be more generally worn than any other. The mariner of lacing enables the wearer to draw it smooth and snug over the instep and around the heel and ankle—an advantage possessed by no other, except, partially, by the side-laced boot; which is likely to come again into favour.
The Polish boot takes the place of the Balmoral when a greater height upon the leg is required. There is no other difference in its form, and the quality of fit is the same. Its worst disadvantage is the amount of time required in lacing and unlacing it, although, when made of thick leather, it may have a slight cramping effect upon the muscles of the ankle.
The Button boot, often called the Hungarian, when cut high like the Polish, is at this time the most fashionable. It is quite as handsome, but has not usually the neatness of fit which the Balmoral possesses.
One style, not generally introduced, but of which a pair has been made occasionally, is superior to the Polish or Hungarian in that there is only half as much trouble in lacing. It may be made very high—thirteen inches, if desired—being laced or buttoned about as far up as the Balmoral, when the upper part of one quarter is folded over past the opening, and fastened with two or three handsome clasps attached to elastic straps, which give and retract sufficiently to accommodate the action of the leg, while at the same time the leg is snugly fitted. This is a good heavy winter boot for ladies, where an extreme height or length of leg is in demand. The Highland buckle is similar to it, the part that laps over being fastened with one inelastic strap. We have also noticed a high boot made with gores like the side-spring—one at the ankle and two above on each side—which would seem to be a very convenient thing to put on, but one that needs the best gores to make it serviceable. It is not probable that either of these varieties will be extensively popular. The first is of the three the most deserving.
The quality needed by all laced, buckled, or buttoned boots is elasticity at the leg, ankle, or instep, such as is possessed at one point—the ankle—by the side-spring. A great advantage would be gained if this elasticity could be extended down even to the ball or joint. One purpose of it is to give free play to the muscles of the leg and ankle, and also allow the foot to lengthen and spread without hindrance as its arches expand under the weight of the body in walking or standings and another is to keep the upper closely drawn over all parts of the foot, ankle, and leg, when the arches are contracted and the muscles inactive, as in a state of rest; both objects—ease to the foot and beauty of fit—being secured by the same means. Buckle and button boots for gentlemen, with this quality supplied at the ankle by a narrow goring on one side of it, while the buckles or buttons are on the other side, have lately been made. The gored Oxford shoe supplies the elasticity at the instep. Perhaps some other style can be invented that will do as much for the ball and transverse arch as these kinds have done for the parts above. Any boot or shoe with this peculiarity is superior to the same thing without it. It must not, of course, be supposed that such a shoe will fit a thick or a slim foot equally well, for the elastic may be too tight for ease in one case, and too loose for a good fit in the other.