The slackener B is connected to a jack in the dobby by the cord L, and the slackener A is connected to another jack by the cord M. When either L or M is lifted, the warp over its rod will be slackened.
FULL CROSS LENO.
FIG. 143.
A full cross may be made by taking the doup completely round the standard end, as in [Fig. 143], and alternately lifting the doup and the other end. This is a much more difficult weave than ordinary leno, and is not much used, although it gives a very pleasing effect when woven with thick yarns. The weave repeats on two picks as in gauze, but it is necessary to use very strong twist in order to bear the strain and friction unavoidable in this crossing.
THE LENO JACQUARD.
FIG. 144.
Where figures are required to be thrown up on a leno ground a Jacquard mounting is required. It is possible to weave a plain figure on a gauze ground with an ordinary Jacquard harness and an ordinary doup stave in front, but this can only be done on a pure gauze ground—that is, one end crossing one. A plain figure on a ground of this kind does not afford a sufficiently powerful contrast to the ground. It is necessary in order to produce a really efficient contrast to have two ends crossing two and weaving separately in the plain. A fabric of this kind is one of the most beautiful of all fabrics, and is remarkably cheap and serviceable in wear. The method of producing a plain figure on a gauze ground with one doup in front of any ordinary Jacquard harness is illustrated at [Fig. 144]. The ends are drawn through the Jacquard as usual, and are then taken in pairs and one crossed under the other, the crossing end being taken through the doup, as shown in the diagram. The crossing end in each pair is marked A. We can now see how either plain or gauze can be woven at will. The doup is lifted for the first pick, and this brings all the ends A up at the right hand side of ends B (see first pick). In the first two dents the ends A are lifted again by the harness, and the loose half of the doup being lifted will enable the ends A to cross to the left side of the ends B. The doup is lifted for the third pick, and it is obvious that this will weave gauze with the first two dents. After the doup is lifted, if the end B is lifted on the next pick, it will cause plain to be woven, as will be seen from the diagram, where the third and fourth dents are weaving plain when the first and second dents are weaving gauze, and vice versâ.