FIG. 145.
FIG. 146.
A proper leno harness is illustrated at [Fig. 145]. It is obviously impossible with the arrangement given at [Fig. 144] to weave a leno with two ends crossing two in conjunction with plain, as there would require to be two ends in each eye in the doup, and as the doup is lifted every other pick, it is impossible to change to plain from the leno. To obtain a figured leno of this description, each dent must have a doup to itself, and the doups must be lifted by the hooks. At [Fig. 145] the arrangement of the harness is shown. The machine is a single lift, and in order to obtain a 400 end figure 600 hooks are required. These are arranged in twelve rows, the two front rows being used for the doup harness, the two back rows for the slackening harness, and the eight middle rows for the ground or figure harness. For the 600 hooks only 500 needles are used, the doup hook and its slackening hook being connected with the same needle. The top and bottom needles are used for the doups and slackeners, as shown in the diagram, and the eight middle rows of needles for the ground or figure harness. The method of drawing the warp through the harness is shown at [Fig. 146]. The two crossing ends are drawn through the slackening harness, and all the ends are drawn through the ground harness. It is immaterial whether the draft is from back to front or front to back; some manufacturers of these goods draw the ends from front to back. Of course, this must be borne in mind in designing and cutting the cards. After being drawn through the ground harness the two crossing ends are crossed under the other two and drawn through a doup. The mails in the doup lingoes are specially made to allow the thread from the slip to pass through and back again. The shaft A ([Fig. 145]) is the slip or loose half, and serves for all the doups. The mails in the slackening harness are placed, lower down than the other warp, and these mails hang between two rods, B and C, which are called the “bridge.” Sometimes only one rod is used, and this serves equally well.
A better shed is formed by only lifting the slackening hooks half as much as the other hooks, and therefore a special device is required for giving only half the lift to these hooks. In the illustration, [Fig. 145], there are two griffes, E and H, and the griffe E is connected to the lever GK at a point, O, about midway between the fulcrum G and the point where the griffe H is connected to the lever. The fulcrum G is movable in a slot made for that purpose, so that the lift of E can be altered a little if desired. When the griffe H is lifted in the ordinary manner, it is obvious that the griffe E will only be lifted about half way.
FIG. 147.
The usual method of obtaining the half-lift, which this invention is intended to supplant, is illustrated at [Fig. 147]. This method was invented by the late Mr. Tootal Broadhurst, and has been in regular use a long time. Each of the slackening hooks lifts a lever CP, centred at C, the slackening harness is tied to these levers about midway between C and P, and thus the mails are lifted only about half as much as the hooks. Of course, in this case all the hooks in the machine are lifted by one griffe, and therefore the slackening hooks are lifted as far as the others.