FIG. 173.
Plain cloth can be made by using two shafts, but four are usually taken with the draft, as shown at [Fig. 172]. This prevents overcrowding the healds. By tying the first and second together and the third and fourth together, the effect is the same as by using only two staves, only two lifts being required.
FIG. 174.
FIG. 175.
Twills.—The simplest twill is the “2 and 1” twill, which is woven with three shafts. A section through this twill is given at [Fig. 173], where it will be seen the weft passes under one end and over two. The structure of the fabric is better shown on “point paper,” as at [Fig. 174]. The spaces between the perpendicular lines represent the warp threads or “ends,” and the spaces between the horizontal lines represent the weft threads or “picks.” By filling in the first square on the first pick, it is shown that the first end is lifted for that pick; and by filling in the second end on the second pick, it is shown that the second end is lifted on the second pick, and so on. It is not always advisable to take a filled-in square as representing a lifted end, as it is often more convenient to fill in the weft squares or those which are left down in weaving. If necessary, it can be stated along with the design whether the marks represent warp or weft up.
Twilled weaves enable a larger number of threads of a given count to be put into a fabric than in a plain cloth, and therefore these weaves are employed in the production of the heavier kinds of cloths where closeness of the threads is also desired.
