FIG. 176.
With three staves the twill given at [Fig. 174] is the only one which can be woven. The same twill may be woven with the warp predominating on the face, and this would be represented on paper as at [Fig. 176], where two ends are shown to be lifted on each of the three picks.
In weaving this pattern three staves would be taken with the draft, as given for [Fig. 174] (see [Fig. 175]). The first stave will be lifted for the first pick, the second stave for the second pick, and the third stave for the third pick. These three lifts being repeated over an indefinite number of times will produce small diagonal lines running at an angle of 45 degrees across the piece, if the number of warp and weft threads in a given space are equal. This twill is sometimes called a “Jean,” and is used in the production of a fabric of that name, as well as in “Jeannettes,” the latter with warp predominating on the face of the cloth. In all these fabrics a large range of qualities is made.
With four staves the following twills can be made:—
1. One up, three down;
2. Two up, two down;
3. Three up, one down.
These are shown on point paper at Figs. [177], [178], and [179] respectively. The third pattern is really the same as the first, being the reverse of that pattern. It is advisable, however, to consider them as two distinct patterns, since they give different effects when used for purposes of combination, as will be seen later.
