Mock Lenos, or Lace Weaves.—These weaves are very extensively used in cotton manufacture. The imitation of leno fabrics can be made extremely close, often so close as to deceive even experienced buyers. The simplest kind is the pattern at [Fig. 285], a “three and three” pattern. The threads are interlaced in such a manner that the first ends are pulled together by the second and fifth picks, and the picks are pulled together in threes by the second and fifth ends, and as the shed is crossed between the third and fourth picks, the crack in the cloth appears there. The open effect is greatly increased if the ends are reeded “three in a dent,” the first three ends in the pattern being together in one dent, so that the reed assists in forming the open effect. Sometimes the ends are reeded in threes with a dent “skipped” between each full one, and this greatly augments the open effect. A “four and four” mock leno is the weave shown at [Fig. 286]. To produce the best effect this requires to be reeded four ends in a dent, commencing with the first four ends in the pattern. In this weave the crack is made between the fourth and fifth ends and fourth and fifth picks. The principle of the weave is exactly the same as in the “three and three” pattern, but a slightly more open effect can be obtained with the “four and four” pattern. It is also suitable for a finer make of cloth, as the open effect can be made with a larger number of threads per inch.
FIG. 285.
FIG. 286.
FIG. 287.
FIG. 288.
A “five and five” pattern is given at [Fig. 287]. The second, fourth, seventh, and ninth ends serve to pull the picks together in fives, and to make a decided crack in the cloth between the fifth and sixth picks in the pattern. The same thing takes place with the ends, they are pulled together in fives, by the second, fourth, seventh, and ninth picks.