Probably the best open effect is produced by [Fig. 288]. This is called a “five and one” mock leno or lace. To produce the best effect, the pattern should be reeded as follows:—

Five ends one dent,

Skip a dent,

One end one dent,

Skip a dent.

Two repeats of the pattern are shown at [Fig. 288], only six ends and six picks being required to weave it. The first five picks are pulled together by the second and fourth ends, and as the shed is crossed between the fifth and sixth picks and between the sixth and the succeeding pick, the single pick No. 6 is shown in the middle of the crack between the bars of five picks. The same thing takes place with the ends.

It is not absolutely necessary to reed the pattern other than two in a dent; an open effect is produced with the ordinary reeding, but the special reeding greatly increases it.

Cords.—Cords can be formed in cloth by simply making a number of threads lift together, as in [Fig. 289]. The cord may be made across the piece by putting a number of picks in a shed, as shown at [Fig. 290]. This principle of forming cords has its disadvantages. If the cord is going lengthwise of the piece a large number of picks per inch is required to give a good and fine effect, and there is always a tendency to show a perforated appearance in cords made on this principle, owing to the threads being pulled together in threes or fours, or whatever number of threads go to form a cord.

FIG. 289.