The ground may be either plain, twill, or satin, but if it is required to bind the extra material a twill is preferable.
[Fig. 314] is the commencement of a small design for an extra weft figure on a “two and two” twill ground, showing how the extra weft may be bound to the ground of the fabric without showing through to the face. The extra weft may be brought up under the weft floats of the twill, and if a fair quantity of material is used the binding will not be visible on the face of the cloth.
FIG. 314.
FIG. 315.
It is impossible to bind extra weft to a plain ground or to a warp satin ground in the ordinary manner, as there is no float to hide the binding under. It may, however, be bound to a warp satin ground by means of stitching threads, after the manner shown in [Fig. 315]. This is an extra weft spot on a warp twill ground, and the loose picks at the back of the cloth are bound by the stitching thread A. This thread is really an extra warp thread, and it is lifted in such a position that the binding is hidden under the warp floats of the twill ground. One of these threads may be used at intervals of an eighth to a quarter of an inch.
In binding extra warp the same principle applies. Extra warp may be bound to a warp ground by lifting it between two warp floats, or it may be bound to a weft ground by using an extra stitching pick on the principle illustrated in [Fig. 315].
