Cotton Weaving and Designing / 6th Edition

by John T. Taylor

FIG. 316.

Extra warp or weft is often used to produce a solid figure on a light or open ground. [Fig. 316] is a small design of this kind, in which one half the picks are thrown out of the cloth in the ground of the pattern. The design gives a very close imitation of a figured leno cloth, if woven with suitable yarns. To obtain a good effect there should be at least twice the number of picks per inch that there are ends or warp threads. When the cloth is taken out of the loom the loose threads are clipped and passed through a shearing machine, where the loose threads are cut off close to the figure.

The extra picks should be bound round the figure by weaving plain for a few ends, to prevent the extra material being pulled out of the figure in clipping or shearing.

Extra Warp and Extra Weft combined.—Where extra warp and extra weft are used together in the same part of the design, the structure is a little more complicated.

A small check pattern of this description is given at [Fig. 317]. Every alternate end and every alternate pick are extra, and all the even numbered ends and picks belong to the ground cloth, which in this case is woven plain.

In making designs employing both extra warp and weft, it is advisable to put the dots of the ground weave on the point paper first. Then dots may be put on to lift the extra warp where it is required to form the figure, and if it is required to throw the extra weft to the back of the ground cloth when the extra warp is on the face, the ground ends must be lifted on the extra weft picks where required.

FIG. 317.

In [Fig. 317] the ground weave is shown in solid squares; the extra warp is lifted by the small circles, and the extra weft is thrown to the back of the plain cloth by the small dots, which lift all the ground ends on the extra picks where the extra warp is lifted. This design is made for single picks, but in the majority of looms there are only change boxes at one side, and so the design must be arranged for two picks alternately of ground and extra weft.

Double Weft Face.—Double weft-faced cloths are made on the principle shown at [Fig. 318]. There is a face weft and a backing weft, and both sides of the cloth may be made alike by using only one count of weft.