Width 26 inches, length 104 yards, weight 30 to 34 lbs. 76 reed, 420 picks per inch, 2-70’s twist, 50’s weft.
Twill Backed Velvets.—Some of the finest kinds of velvet are made with a twill back. The chief advantage of a twill back over a plain is that the bindings of the pile weft into the ground are hidden by the twill floats at the back. This renders the pile much faster than a common velvet; in fact, twill backs are usually sold as fast pile velvets.
FIG. 367.
[Fig. 366] is a section showing the structure of the fabric, and it will be easily understood that the pile cannot be so easily pulled out at the back, owing to the weft covering the bindings. [Fig. 367] is the design for a good make of this kind of velvet, the back is a two and one twill, and the pile weft floats over eleven ends.
An important thing to remember about twill backs is, that the pile pick following a back pick must have the dot opposite a blank square in the back pick. If this were not so, the picks would slip about and form an irregular surface.
In the weave under notice, five pile picks are taken between the first two back picks, two between the second and third, and five between the third and first. This enables the proper bindings to be made.
This weave gives one of the best cloths that are made. It is usually woven with about 600 picks per inch of 60’s weft, in a 76 reed with a 2-70’s twist.
FIG. 368.