Another pattern of the same kind which will take still more weft is given at [Fig. 368]. In this there are five pile picks to each backing pick, and the pattern repeats on thirty-six picks.
Plushes.—When much longer piles are required the fabric is called “plush.” These can be made on exactly the same principles as the foregoing, or the principle embodied in [Fig. 369] may be used. In this weave the pile is bound in much oftener than in the shorter piled cloths, as a long pile is much easier to pull out than a short one, and therefore requires more firmly binding. The ground picks also in this weave are all alike, i.e. they all pass under the same ends, and this does not hold the pile weft as firmly as a proper plain back, although it utilizes the binding of the pile weft as forming part of the back pattern. The bindings of the four pile picks together form a plain pick, and the back of the cloth thus appears perfectly plain. To preserve an even surface of pile it is necessary to distribute the points, where the first pick in each four commences, in satin order. As there are in [Fig. 369] twelve ends on which the pile picks are bound, the basis upon which the bindings must be distributed is a twelve-end satin, which runs 1, 6, 11, 4, 9, 2, 7, 12, 5, 10, 3, 8. The first pile pick commences to bind on the second warp thread, and therefore the first pile pick in the second set of four (the seventh pick) must commence to bind on the sixth of the ends available for the purpose (the twelfth end). The whole design will be complete on sixty picks.
FIG. 369.
For a longer pile the weft would require to be bound under more ends, especially if the backing picks are not crossed.
Cord Velvets.—A simple cord velvet can be made on the principle of [Fig. 370]. The two plain ends on every six bind all the pile picks in the form of a cord up the piece, and there is one ground pick to four pile picks. The cutter’s knife is only run up every cord, and so the cutting operation is much cheaper and more easily done than in the case of velvets. After cutting, the pile is brushed, and the fibres spread out so as to cover the space between the two binding ends as much as possible.
An eight-end cord on the same principle is given at [Fig. 371].
FIG. 370.