In designing for a machine which is “cast out,” it is necessary to know in which part of the machine the ends are cast out, so that the design may be made to tie up properly, and that proper instructions may be given to the card-cutter.
Striped Designs.—Striped fabrics are always largely made for dress goods and other purposes. An endless variety of styles may be made by combining stripes of any two contrasting weaves. If the weaves are combined for dobby weaving, care must be taken that too many shafts are not required for the value of the effect obtained, but if intended for Jacquard weaving, the stripes may be figured as desired.
Some of the most effective combined styles are made of satin and leno in various forms and proportions. If for dobby weaving, the designs may be spotted to come in on a reasonable number of shafts, but if for the Jacquard, the satin is figured. The satin stripes are usually crammed—that is, there are more ends in each dent of the reed in the satin than in the other part of the fabric. [Fig. 383] is a stripe design, composed of alternate stripes of figured satin and “5 and 1” lace or mock leno. The reeding plan for this fabric will be as follows:—
Reeding Plan for [Fig. 383].
| 48 ends satin, 4 in a dent | = | 12 | dents | |||
| 5 ends | 1 dent |
| three times | = | 12 | dents |
| Skip | 1 dent | |||||
| 1 end | 1 dent | |||||
| Skip | 1 dent | |||||
| 5 ends | 1 dent | = | 1 | dent | ||
| 25 | dents in pattern. | |||||
This system of reeding the open work is the best for obtaining an open effect, as pointed out in a previous chapter. Twenty-five dents are occupied in reeding each pattern of seventy-one ends, and assuming the harness to have one hundred threads per inch, the reed required to keep the cloth the same width in the reed as in the harness will be—
71 : 100
The reed required is one with 35·2 dents per inch, or a 70’s “Stockport” reed would be used. This calculation is for a complete number of patterns, and does not allow anything for balancing the piece by having a satin stripe at both sides, as is often the case.