In figured stripe designs the general effect is much improved by placing the figure in different positions on each stripe in the 400 ends. If there are four figured stripes in the 400 ends, and the figure repeats on 100 picks, the figure may be placed in four different positions, moving twenty-five picks each time, in which case it would have to be designed on 400 ends; or in two different positions, in which case it would be designed on 200 ends. The object of this distribution is to prevent the figure appearing in rows across the piece.
Figured Diagonals.—As previously explained, striped designs are complete on the lowest number of picks into which all different weaves in the design will divide without remainder. In figured diagonals the design is complete on the first number that the diagonal and figure or figures counted diagonally will divide into without remainder. Thus, in [Fig. 384] the design is complete on 48 picks, because the diagonal repeats on 24 picks and the figure repeats on 16 picks, and the L.C.M. of 24 and 16 is 48; therefore this is the number of picks to which the design must be carried before it is complete.
FIG. 384.
Selection of Point Paper.—Point paper is divided into small squares to represent the ends and picks, and if the designs are for a 300’s or 400’s Jacquard a thick line is required every eight in the warp direction to mark off the number of rows of eight needles in the machine. In 100’s Jacquards the needles are placed in 25 rows of four needles in a row; in 200’s the needles are in 25 rows of eight needles, in 400’s there are 50 rows of eight needles, and in 600’s there are twelve needles in a row. The design on point paper must be divided by a thick line to mark off the number of needles in a row; in a 400’s machine this is always eight, in 600’s machines it is always twelve.
If the paper has a thick line every eight in the picks as well as in the warp it is called “8 × 8,” and a design made on this paper will be proportionately the same if woven into cloth with the same number of ends as picks per inch.
If it is desired to make a design for a fabric with 96 ends per inch and 60 picks per inch for a machine with eight needles in a row, the paper required to keep the figure of the same proportions as it will appear in the cloth will be 8 × 5.
96 : 60
If the design is intended for a 600’s machine, the paper must be 12 × (x). If the cloth is to have 96 ends per inch and 120 picks per inch in a 600’s machine, the paper required would be 12 × 15.