FIG. 391.
Designing for Edleston’s Harness.—When designing for the patent harness, illustrated at [Fig. 129], the sketch is put on point paper in the ordinary manner, but it must be remembered in doing so that the figure when woven will be on double the number of ends which it apparently occupies on point paper.
FIG. 392.
If the spot shown at [Fig. 391] is put on point paper and woven in this harness the effect shown at [Fig. 392] will be obtained in the cloth. The number of ends between the spots would only be nine on paper to give the eighteen in the cloth.
It was pointed out in explaining the structure of this harness that a weft figure could not be put upon a warp ground, as it is obvious that not more than half the warp can be lifted at once, and the figure must therefore be obtained by leaving the warp down. The designs are confined to plain grounds, or weft figures may be thrown on weft satin grounds, and twill or cord grounds may with advantage be used. The method of putting eight-end satin on point paper is given at [Fig. 130]. The principle of putting on paper any weave possible on this harness will be understood by referring to the explanation given with the illustration of the harness.
Figured Lenos.—Some of the most beautiful of all fabrics are made with the leno harness, the combination of plain or floated figures with the open and firm leno ground giving a fabric which is both serviceable and effective. The structure of the harness has already been explained with [Fig. 145], and it has been shown how “four and four” leno and a plain or floated weave can be combined.
FIG. 393.