The method of putting the design on point paper for a figured leno harness with 500 needles and 600 hooks (see [Fig. 145]) will be understood from [Fig. 393]. This is a small portion of a design which includes “four and four” leno, plain, and floated weft or warp. The solid squares show the crossing threads lifted by the ground harness, and the circles show the same ends lifted by the doup. There will thus be four ends in a dent and four picks in a shed in the leno, and when these are woven plain the contrast is very effective.
Two colours are necessary for putting the design on paper, and in cutting the cards from the design the solid squares in the leno portion will be cut opposite the third and fourth or seventh and eighth needles in the ground set, whilst the circles in the design which show where the doups are to be lifted will be cut opposite either the first or tenth row of needles. In a ground weave of this kind both doups are never lifted together, as the weave is easier when they are lifted separately.
Some beautiful striped designs are made by using thick whip threads to give a lace effect, and various fancy leno weaves can be made and employed for giving variety to the effect.
If there are more than four picks in a shed on the leno it is often necessary to lift one of the crossing ends when the standard ends are lifting in order to prevent the threads from “slipping” or “fraying.”
FIG. 394.
[Fig. 394] will give a well-known two-doup effect, and other patterns may be devised quite easily, the power of the harness being practically unlimited.
Sometimes leno figures are woven on plain grounds, but the opposite is the general rule. Floated figures are not much used, as the contrast of the plain and leno is very effective, and is more serviceable than a loose figure.
A very fair imitation of a four in a dent figured leno can be made by using one doup stave in front of an ordinary Jacquard harness, and crossing one end under three. By lifting the doup every other pick a plain figure can be woven on the leno ground, one crossing three, on the principle explained with [Fig. 144].
