FIG. 395.
Toiletings.—In toilet quilts a raised plain figure is formed by an extra warp from a separate beam interweaving with the plain cloth where the ground of the design is required. [Fig. 395] is a portion of a design for a cloth of this kind. Every third end is an “extra” end, and where the raised figure is required these ends are left down, but where the ground of the design is required the extra ends interweave with the plain cloth and bind it down. The tension of the extra warp causes the figure to stick up more than would otherwise be the case. The principle can be made to give innumerable effects by different methods of introducing the extra warp, but the ends must not be left out of the cloth for too long together, or they would be too loose at the back and would be likely to catch. [Fig. 396] is a section showing the binding of the extra warp into the plain figuring cloth.
FIG. 396.
The principle is well adapted for the production of large figures such as are required on quilts and similar fabrics, owing to the fact that only one-third of the warp threads are required to pass through the Jacquard harness; the plain ends can be lifted by shafts.
In the better classes of toiletings two shuttles are used, and the extra ends are woven plain at the back instead of hanging loose. The principle is otherwise the same as in a one-shuttle toileting.
FIG. 397.
In some quilts a padding weft is inserted between the face and back cloth on the principle explained in Figs. [326]–[328]. “Marseilles” quilts are made in this manner. [Fig. 397] will show how a padded figure is formed, the dots represent the weft, and the principle of forming the figure is the same as in Figs. [326] and [328].