Sash curtains, stores, panels, or any other style of glass curtains, are hung with the right side of the goods to the glass, unless the windows are so far removed from ordinary vision that it is impossible to discern the difference. Long lace curtains are hung with the right side to the room where sash curtains are used, or the reverse way when hung alone, subject to the above proviso in reference to the difference being perceptible from without.
We illustrated in Figures [34A] and [34B], chapter on scarf draping, the method of gathering back a curtain for looping and for draping with a rosette, and lace goods are manipulated in the same way. To obtain the effect illustrated in Figure [61], Curtain B, attach the curtain at the top, allowing it to be from six to eighteen inches longer than to the floor, hold the edges of the curtain in each hand and pleat it forward and back from the bottom, as illustrated in Figure [69], until it is pleated up to where you desire to fasten the loop; hold the outside side edge there and release the inside edge and it will fall in a fan shape, as illustrated; the loop is then passed around, the pleats still retained, and the surplus of about six inches above the tying pushed back and down behind the edge of the curtain, as shown.
Lace curtains may be shirred on to the pole or rod by making a double hem at the top, as illustrated in Figure [64], the distance between the two stitchings A and B a little less than twice the diameter of the pole, to allow for shrinkage. Thus, for a one-inch pole, which would measure loosely three and one-eighth inches in circumference, you would require to allow about one and seven-eighths inches between A and B, making three and three-quarter inches of a pocket for the pole to pass through.
A pretty effect is produced (Figure [70]) by running a tape into a small double hem (leaving one inch for the heading and half an inch between A and B for the tape) and shirring the curtain to the width of the space it is to cover, after which rings or hooks are sewn to the back in the position indicated by letter A above Figure [70].
Curtains made of soft net or muslin, with a very small border or soft ruffled edge, look well shirred, but those having heavy pattern borders look best pleated.
Where it is possible to do so the top of the curtain to be pleated should be turned over about two inches (Figure [71]) and a tape about one inch wide sewn along the back where the pins will be inserted. This gives strength to the delicate fabric where repeated pinning is apt to cause its destruction.
If this cannot be done, spread the curtain out upon the floor or other flat surface, face downwards, and turn over about six inches of the top, smooth this down nicely and fold it again in the middle, or three inches from the top of the first fold, press it flat with the hands and pleat and pin it while in this position, the pins being inserted about two inches from the top edge (Figure [72]).
Curtain B, Figure [61], with Figure 73, shows a box pleat slightly gathered on a safety curtain-pin, the fullness being taken up equally in the pleats.
In curtain B, Figure [59], with Figure [74], the fullness of the curtain, instead of being pleated, is gathered on to the safety pin, but this can only be done with fine curtains. The fullness is equally divided among the pins, and the tops of the small pleats are spread into a small fan shape, making a dainty finish beneath the pole.
The pleat illustrated in Figure [67C] and [77], is a straight pleat, held in place by the curtain pin, and is most commonly used for all purposes.