Cutting and draping

by John W. Stephenson

Turn the pleat to the front edge of the curtain on the wrong side, which lies upwards, as you pin it, and that will make the pleats turn to the back edge on the under or right side, as illustrated in Figure [72].

If a small curtain the pleats may be formed and the rings sewn on as Figure [77].

Lace curtains hanging straight, as in Figure [60], Curtain B, should just nicely clear the floor, and to adjust this to a nicety we have found it a good plan to pin them so as to clear the floor by about two inches (not more), and then gently stretch them down this distance.

To stretch them, place an outspread hand on each side of the curtain, and, pressing the two palms together, stretch gently, a little at a time, working across the curtain from one side to the other until it is the required length. This must be done very carefully, and if the curtain is not found pliable enough to stretch the required distance pin it over again, allowing it to be longer.

Curtains having a distinct pattern, as figure 72, are usually pleated as there indicated, without any pleats in the border, the fullness being all taken up by pleats in the body of the curtain, and where fabric over-curtains are used, as Curtain C, Figure [67], the over-curtain should not be permitted to cover the border of the lace curtain.

Over-curtains are always better on a separate pole, but may be attached to the same pole as the lace curtains by using extra rings for them. In the elevation detail, Figure [78], Rod B is for lace curtains and Pole A for the over-curtains, a plan that permits either curtain to be drawn without interfering with the other. Over-curtains may be used at the discretion of the decorator in almost any room, and are particularly effective in large rooms. They may hang straight or loop back, having the same effect on the apparent size of the window as already explained. They should be long enough to just clear the floor, whether straight or looped back, and should cover the back edge of the lace curtains.

When gathered back, as in Figure [62], the lace curtain and over-curtain should be looped back separately, the over-curtain drawn back far enough to show a good border of lace down the front edge and across the bottom.

Narrow windows in large rooms may be made to appear wider by making the pole or cornice project at each side and pleating the curtain to cover part of the wall at each side. The pole or cornice should be placed high enough in this case to entirely conceal the top of the wood trim, as in Figure [67]; but in cases where it is advisable to show the wood trim at the top it should be shown also at the outside, as in Figure [68], which shows the trim all around. Over-curtains are pleated to the size as illustrated by Figure [72] for lace curtains, or shirred on a tape, as in figure 70, and lambrequin hooks or rings sewn on. A lined over-curtain, if to be pleated for pinning, is made as the right corner of Figure [75], the two materials turned in and slip stitched at the top and sides and machine stitched as indicated, about one and one-half inches from the top of the curtain. The curtain is spread out right side up for pinning, the pleats formed and a Gordon hook pin (as Figure [76]) is passed through the pleat between the two lines of machine stitching. Use the straight pleat of Figure [72] for this purpose, making as many as may be necessary to dispose of the fullness. If the over-curtain is not to be lined turn the top over as the left corner of Figure [75], and stitch and pin as already explained.

Soft curtains finished with a full ruffle usually look best looped back, as B, Figure [65], or if fastened with a rosette the edge drawn up near the rosette to give a full sweep to the ruffle, as Figure [66].

If the curtain is made of very fine or soft net graceful effects are produced by using two rods at B, Figure [78], one a little in advance of the other, and both the same height; shirr one curtain on each rod, so that when tied back the crossed effect is produced, as illustrated.