Cutting and draping

by John W. Stephenson

It will be readily seen that the circle of the top must be increased in proportion to the amount of fullness desired in the shirred curtain. For example, say that the distance from A to line B—X is twenty inches and the width of the curtain before shirring is fifty inches. Spread out the goods on your cutting-table, and, taking the line E—C of Figure [105] to be the top of the goods, measure down on the E or left-hand selvage the distance from E, the top of the arch, to A, the spring of the arch, and mark point A; now, with a cord fastened at A, and the goods spread smoothly out, face side up, strike a quarter circle, with C as a radius (line C—D, Figure [105]); shift the cord to C, and with A as a radius strike another line to intersect the first one, thus locating point D, the point of intersection; shift the cord again to point D, and with A as a radius strike another sweep toward the upper right-hand corner until you cross point C.

The line thus drawn from A to C will be the top line of the curtain that will shirr properly into the space A—B. Add sufficient for heading and hem, before cutting, and trim to shape. If the curtain is to hang as Figure [103], measure down the C selvage edge of the goods the distance from top of arch to the floor, and trim squarely across for the bottom of the curtain, the gathering and raking edge (Figure [103]) being formed by the looping up, as illustrated in Figures [34B], [C] and [D], chapter on Scarf Draperies.

If the curtain is to hang as a double festoon curtain, as Figure [104], sketch the curtain on your blackboard with the arch as Figure [105], and after defining the top of the curtain on your goods as above explained, measure the distance from B to G on your blackboard, and mark the same distance on the edge of your goods from C downward.

This locates point F. Measure the distance from A to H (the top of the seam) on your board and mark it on your goods exactly same size; add trimming allowance as dotted line three inches extra at each end and one and one-half inches in centre, and the piece of material defined by points A, C, F and H will shirr and pleat correctly into the space sketched on board, and defined by A, B, G and H. Pleat this up on the board and trim the line H—G square. Measure the distance from H to floor and cut a length of material, allowing a little for trimming. Pleat this on the board also, allowing the bottom to clear the floor nicely by a half inch, and not spreading beyond the points H and I. Trim this corner dotted line H—I—G to fit the line H—G, and join to the upper part, making as small a seam as possible, which is covered by a cord, in Figure [104].

The back of the seam is bound by a piece of the material or lining, as the case demands.

The Gothic arch illustrated in Figure [106] shows a case not often met with, but serves to illustrate a principle of soft valance cutting equally applicable to any shaped opening and any desired scallop.

The opening in question had an arching exposure into one room and a square exposure into the other room. The square opening is simply treated with a pair of portières, as Figure [106A], the same showing behind the valance in Figure [106]. To plan the valance itself it is necessary to have a full-size pattern of the arch, and on this as a plan (106 B) sketch out the drapery actual size. Be sure to allow more paper than is defined by the outline of the arch, as the details of the pattern will probably go beyond the outline as in this case. Half of the sketch only need be used, but it should be fairly correct in outline and proportion. When satisfactorily sketched (as Figure [106]) detail the individual pipes and tails as follows:

If the pipes have been properly sketched it will be readily seen that the side outlines converge toward the centre at the top, and diverge from the centre at the bottom. Continue these lines upward until they intersect as at U and V, Figure [106B]. This point will be nearer or more distant according to the flare of the pipe at the base. With one point of a pair of dividers at point U, and with the top of the pipe as a radius, strike a line across and on each side of the pipe, as line 1—2; repeat at the bottom of the pipe, cutting through the front sides and back of the mouth of the pipe, as dotted lines 13 and 14; place one point of dividers at Y and with Z as a radius add a half inch for fold, and strike to cross line 13 on each side; shift point of dividers to this intersection on line 13, and with I as a radius strike to intersect line 14, thus locating point 8 (Figure [106B]). Locate point 7 in the same way, and rule from 7 to Y and from 8 to Y, swinging the line a little to include the intersection on line 13 a half inch from point Z; rule also from all these points, 7—8—Z and Z to U, locating points 1 and 2 where the outside lines cross the sweep at the top of the pipe. Find all the points on the next pipe and mark and rule in the same way. Continue the outlines of the first fold of the tail until they meet at W; attach a cord there, and with chalk or pencil strike circling lines at the top of the tail and at M, N, O, P, Q, R, S and T, the bottom of the tail.