Tea, its history and mystery

by Joseph M. Walsh

Sun-dried—As the name implies, are steamed and dried in the sun before firing, in order to fix their color permanently. The leaf is olive-green, well fired, compactly curled and “toasty” in the cup, owing to their thorough fermentation before firing, and although not as well appreciated as the Pan-fired, are much superior in drinking properties, their extra fermentation destroying the “grassy” flavor so characteristic of many Japans. The lower grades range from a yellowish to a dull-green, indifferently rolled and often “fishy” in flavor, said to be contracted from the use of fish manure in the coast districts.

Basket-fired—So named from being cured by the “basket process,” and in contradistinction to those fired in pans. The finer grades are long, dark and exceedingly well twisted or curled, entirely free from stems, dust and other extraneous matter, clear and bright in liquor, and mellow or “mealy” in flavor, the latter quality making them a very valuable sort for blending purposes. The commoner grades are rough, and uncouth in style, brownish-black in color, thick and heavy in liquor, but lacking in “grip” and flavor.

Kumo—Or “Spider-leg” Japan, is in reality only a finer grade of basket-fired; long, narrow, black, and “wirey” in leaf, and elastic in texture. It is of the Pekoe order in make, but still retaining all the properties of liquor and flavor of a Japan tea pure and simple.

Nibs—Are composed of the refuse of the foregoing kinds, bearing the same relation to Japans that Twankays do to Green teas, many of them drawing and drinking exceedingly well, according to the grade separated from.

Up to 1856 China tea was the only tea used in the United States, but during that year a small quantity of Japan teas, consisting of about 50 half-chests, was first received in this country. Being found pure and free from coloring-matter, it soon became very popular with consumers, a large number of whom had been prejudiced against China green teas at the time, under the impression that they were more or less artificially colored. The demand steadily increased, 400 half-chests were imported the following year, which was increased to 1,100 chests in 1859. About 1860 the Japanese changed their mode of curing, adopting that of the Chinese as applied to Green teas, with the result of altering the color from a dark to a light green, and of imparting a high “toasty” or malty flavor, in lieu of the uncooked or “grassy” taste which characterized the first importations, since which period and change they have continued to grow in popular favor. But the supply of Japan teas being at one time greatly in excess of the demand and the price declining in many instances below the cost of production, in connection with the fact that the teas as originally prepared were used only in the American market, induced the Japanese to convert their surplus leaf into other varieties, such as Pekoes, Congous, Oolongs, Imperials, Gunpowders, and Young Hysons, in imitation of the Chinese “makes,” with the futile expectation of popularizing them in England and other countries, where, heretofore, only very small quantities were consumed. With this intention Chinese skilled labor was imported into the tea districts to aid them in the experiment of preparing these makes of teas. The result proved most unsatisfactory as was anticipated at the time by experts and others interested in the project, only very small quantities of the respective kinds being produced occasionally. It is predicted, however, that all the different descriptions now received from other countries will be eventually prepared in Japan, in evidence of which a tea rivalling the finest Formosa in general character is now produced in the Hondo district from a variety of the Japan plant.

Japan Pekoe—Is a long, dark-green, flat leaf tea, usually “tipped,” but as often not, approaching to that of the India variety in style and appearance. But while looking remarkably well in the hand and up to standard in drink, being smooth in liquor and “malty” in flavor, as a general rule it is through overfiring lacking in the scent and aroma of the China and even India prototype.

Japan Congou—Approximates in many of its leading features to that of the India species, the cured leaf possessing similar properties to many of the finer grades of the latter. The infusion is brighter in color but thinner in body, and more acidulous in flavor, and the reverse of palatable, owing to its imperfect fermentation and high or overfiring.

Japan Oolongs—Although cured in identically the same manner as the China variety, resemble them only in general contour. The leaf is darker in color but finer in make, approaching more to the Souchong order. The infusion is also darker in draw, but very “toasty,” that is, “burnt” in flavor, owing to too high firing, retaining all the original peculiarities of a regular Japan tea.

Japan Imperials, Gunpowders and Young Hysons—Differ only from the ordinary Japan teas in form, make and color. Being prepared from the same leaf, they naturally possess the same general characteristics and cup qualities; the demand not justifying, they are not produced in any appreciable quantities.

The production of tea in Japan is constantly increasing and its quality improving, a wider area being devoted to its cultivation each year, largely superseding sericulture in many districts. The total area now under cultivation amounts to nearly 42,000 Cho, or about 100,000 acres. The total annual product is estimated at 100,000,000 pounds, a gain of over 30,000,000 as compared with 1890, of which 40,000,000 pounds, or 44 per cent. of the total production was consumed in the United States during the fiscal year of 1891. The American taste for Japan teas continues to grow in proportion, particularly in the Northwestern and Pacific States, their consumption in this country nearly doubling that of Oolongs and Congous combined, and trebling that of Green teas of all makes. This too, notwithstanding the fact that only a very small proportion of really choice Japan teas are ever exported, rarely exceeding one per cent. of the entire crop, being principally retained for home consumption.