Tea, its history and mystery

by Joseph M. Walsh

INDIA TEAS.

One of the most remarkable circumstances in connection with the development of the Tea trade is the rapid increase in the production and consumption of India Teas. Almost unknown to commerce thirty years ago, they are fast becoming an important factor in the business, particularly in the English and colonial markets, India being already of such importance to them as a source of tea supply that it is only a question of a very short time when the tea consumers of these countries will no longer regard China as a tea-growing country indispensable to them.

As far as can be ascertained, the first announcement of the discovery of the tea-plant in India was made in 1833, but owing to imperfect specimens being sent to botanists for inspection, it was not at the time considered a true species. It was fully demonstrated, however, in 1835, when a plant with perfect leaves, flowers and seeds was obtained which proved on analysis to be a species of the genus tea allied to, but not identical with that of China; Burmese and Chinese experts, to whom the specimens were submitted, concurring in the statement. The report being favorable, an experimental plantation was immediately established under government auspices with results not known. The first plantation for its cultivation on a commercial scale was formed in Lukhimpore in 1836, from which the first samples were received in 1839, and the first sales made in 1840. But, owing to the unfavorable reports given on the first samples of the tea prepared from the India leaf, it was rejected by the London brokers. The propriety of introducing the China species was next suggested by some planters, and tons of seed were at once imported from that country, large estates being formed from the plants raised from it. Many of the plantations were finally composed of hybrids or crosses between the China and India species, which is now claimed to have been an error, as the nearer each variety approaches to the indigenous the higher its excellence.

The tea-producing districts of India are widely scattered, the largest—Assam—being situated in the extreme northeast of the country bordering on the Burmese Empire, the others being located on the northwestern boundary of Nepaul and the Punjaub, while Central India appears to be entirely devoid of tea gardens up to the present. There are numerous plantations, however, scattered over the southwestern provinces of the peninsula, most notably in Wynaad, Neilgherry and Travancore. In India, tea is grown on extensive estates, often comprising thousands of acres, situated principally in the alluvial valleys of large rivers, or formed on land reclaimed from primeval jungle, possessing all the richness of virgin soil and cultivated either by the individual owners or the agents of companies commanding considerable capital. Every detail of cultivation and preparation is conducted under close and careful European supervisors. The plants are raised from seed sown in nurseries until they are about 18 inches high, when they are transplanted to the rows in the gardens in which they are to grow, the closest attention being paid to weeding and irrigating. The young trees are carefully pruned periodically and reduced to a bushy form, until they are from two to three years old, when the first picking commences, the exact time for picking being determined by the overseer. The leaves are removed in such a manner as to cause no subsequent injury to the plants, by which care the India planter is enabled to obtain from twelve to sixteen pickings in a single season, the Chinese grower being limited to three or four at the utmost.

Each separate picking in India is termed a “Flush,” a number of flushes constituting a “Break” or “Chop,” as in China, which is rarely more than 100 chests and frequently as low as 20, but generally uniform in grade. There is another remarkable feature about India teas; it is that while the first, second and third pickings of all other teas are respectively inferior to each other there is nothing in the India pickings to denote their relationship to any crop or gathering. The number of pickings from the India plant also varies considerably according to the soil, situation, garden and season. When all these conditions are favorable, the plantation will yield as many as sixteen “flushes,” while ordinarily and often under the most unfavorable conditions five to six are obtained in a single season.

There is no radical difference between the Chinese and Indian methods of preparation up to what is termed the “Rolling process;” it being performed in the latter country very lightly and only by a minimum of pressure by machinery. Each day’s collection is immediately “withered” until thoroughly evaporated, when they are as promptly cured and fired. The processes of fermenting and firing are not as detailed or complete as in China, the India planter aiming to secure the component properties of a strong tea at the expense of flavor and keeping qualities. In India the tea is generally prepared from the young shoots, two leaves only being picked at a time and “withered” in the open air without any extraneous aid, much, however, depending on the skill and knowledge of the operators in arresting the process at the exact moment. When the proper point is reached they are immediately removed to a “drying” room, and laid out on trays until the excessive moisture has been dissipated, this process being hastened by occasional blasts of hot air driven through by a machine. When sufficient moisture has been extracted they are placed in a heavy rolling machine and tossed about until all the cellular tissues are broken, when they begin to curl up tightly, as if by the action of the hand, after which they are placed in heaps on tables for some hours to allow them to ferment; the color, meanwhile, changing from green to a dark bronze during the process.

In the process of “firing” the leaves are spread out in a series of wire-gauze trays, placed in layers in a hot-air machine, known as a “Sirocco,” from the fact that the current of vapor arising from it is suggestive of the hot winds of the desert, and in which the temperature averages some 300 degrees. These screens are operated either in a lateral or rotary direction also by steam, the tea being thoroughly fired in from twenty to twenty-five minutes, and separated into the different grades at the same time. But on some plantations the tea is afterwards bulked in large tin-lined cases until a considerable quantity is accumulated, when it is again lightly fired, the operations of sorting and grading being again performed by machinery previous to being packed in the teak-wood chests, in which it is finally shipped. The curing and firing of tea by hot air and machinery in India is fast superseding the primitive arrangements and charcoal processes so long in use in China. Yet though much more rapid and effective in its work, and certain not to taint the leaves in any manner, it is still an open question whether the older and slower methods of curing in pans over charcoal fires is not after all the better one. That the teas are not properly cured or thoroughly fired by this over-hasty method is evidenced by the fact that India teas in general are noted for their great excess of tannin and peculiar raw, “grassy,” uncooked or herby flavor. But labor and fuel-saving machinery are effecting such economy in the cultivation and preparation of tea in India as to yearly reduce the cost of its production. So many improvements for drying, rolling, firing and sorting are annually being recorded that it is difficult even to estimate at what figure it may be produced there in the future.

India teas comprise Assams, Cachars, Darjeelings, Deradoons, Kumaons, Dooars, Chittagongs, Juligoories, Rangworths and Neilgherries, district terms, ranking in the order named, and are converted into Pekoes, Souchongs, Pekoe-Souchongs, Congous, Broken-leaf and Fannings. In make, style, color, flavor, and general appearance, India teas resemble most the Congou sorts of China, but many of them being produced from a combination of the China and India plants are hybrid in character, differing essentially from either originals. Most of them possess a sharp, acrid taste, not to be found in any other variety, and a peculiar flavor rarely liked by consumers, unless when tempered with the softer and more mellow China growths, and to neutralize which peculiarity it is at all times necessary to use only the best India grades. In make they are in general longer and narrower in leaf, darker in color, more shapely, better curled or twisted, and finer in texture than the corresponding Chinese varieties.

Assams—Are greyish-black in color, the leaf of the finer grades being “Pekoe-tipped” and evenly curled. The liquor is unusually strong and pungent, in addition to being thick and heavy in body. The infused leaf dark-brown, with a reddish tinge, and almost perfect in form.

Cachars—Are blacker in color, but not as well curled or even in appearance. The liquor is softer and occasionally “fruity,” approaching a burnt flavor, while the infused leaf is larger, darker and not as finely shaped.