Our sentimental journey through France and Italy / A new edition with Appendix

by Joseph Pennell; Elizabeth Robins Pennell

“Why?” cried I, jumping up and dropping the flannels.

“I’ll tell you,” said he; “because”——

APPENDIX

ROUTE 1. OUR ROUTE.—FROM CALAIS TO MODANE.
Towns.	Distance in Kilometres.	Hotels.	Remarks on Roads, &c.
Calais		Du Sauvage.
Boulogne	33	Du Louvre.	Good surface, very hilly, much pavé.
Pont-de-Brique	5		Paved all the way.
Condette			Good.
Neuchâtel	8		“
Etaples	19		From Etaples to Abbeville we went by Montreuil,Nainpont, Nouvion, because of sentimental reasons. But the route as given is said to be much better, and though 13 kilos. longer, has 13 kilos. less pavé, and is much less hilly than the Route Nationale, the old post-road taken by Sterne.
Berck	14
Waben	6
Quend	7
Rue	7
Abbeville	13	De France.	Good.
Pont Remy	8		“
Longpre[237]	9		Sandy.
Picquigny	13		Sandy.
Amiens	13	L’Univers (Expensive).
Breteuil	32		Good; long up-grades.
St. Just	About half-way	Cheval Blanc.	Good.
Clermont	34		Good; long descent.
Angy
Mouy	13	Du Commerce.	Good; long descent.
Cires-les-Mellis			Good.
Beaumont	14	Quatre Fils Aymon.	“
Paris	47		The highroad to Paris is all paved. Train to Gare du Nord. Across Paris viâ Boulevard Voltaireand Place de la République to the Gare de Lyon. Ridable nearly all the way. From Paris to Melun train; pavé.
Melun
Viâ {Chailly {Barbizon {The Forest
	From Paris.
Fontainebleau	59	Cadran Bleu.	Perfect.
Nemours			“
Montargis	50	Poste.	Perfect; but at the foot of some hills are gutters of pavé.
Briare	41		Good.
Cosne	31	Grand Cerf.	“
La Charité	28	Poste.	Good.
Nevers	25	Europe.	Good; take left-hand road into Nevers.
Moulins	53	De l’Allier.	Good.
La Palisse	50		“
La Pacaudière		Du Commerce.	Good up to La Pacaudière, about 18 kilos. from La Palisse.
Roanne	31		Good; long down-grade.
Tarare	40	Europe.	Good surface; mountainous.
Lyons	44	Négociants.	Bad near Lyons; hilly.
Vienne	27	Du Nord.	Bad: stony and hilly.
Chatonnay	29		Good.
Rives	30	Poste.	Good; dead level; bad descent into Rives.
Vreppe	13		Great climb, then descent to St. Laurent.
St. Laurent	15
La Grand Chartreuse (10 k. from St. Laurent)
Les Echelles	6		Climb, and after tunnel, down. Awful climb going the other way.
Chambéry	24
Montrélian	15	Des Voyageurs.
Aiguebelle	23
St. Jean de Maurienne	33	Europe.
St. Michel	14	Union.
Modane	17
ROUTE 2. BEST ROUTE FROM CALAIS TO PARIS. Route 1.—To Boulogne.
Boulogne		Du Louvre.
Samer	15
Cormont	10		Level to hilly.
Montreuil (sur Mer)	10	De Londres.	“
Nampont	13
Nouvion	13
Abbeville	13	De France.
Ailly-le-haut
Clocher by Fixécourt	13
Belloy to Picquigny	19		Route 1 to Amiens.
ROUTE 2. BEST ROUTE FROM CALAIS TO PARIS. Route 1.--To Boulogne.
Boulogne		Du Louvre.
Samer	15
Cormont	10		Level to hilly.
Montreuil (sur Mer)	10	De Londres.	“
Nampont	13
Nouvion	13
Abbeville	13	De France.
Ailly-le-haut
Clocher by Fixécourt	13		Level to hilly.
Belloy to Picquigny	19		Route 1 to Amiens.
Route 1.--To Breteuil.
Breteuil		Du Globe.	Hilly to level.
Caply	3
St. Eusoye	4
Froissy	3	Pélerin Nugnot.
Noiremont	3
Sucrerie St. Martin	5		Hilly to level.
Oroer	3
Tillé	5
Beauvais	4	L’Ecu.
Voisinlieu	4
St. Quentin d’ Auteuil	10		Hilly.
Bois-de-Molle	3
Corbeil Cerf	5		Hilly.
Meru	5	Augonin.
Amblainville	5		From here generally level to Paris.
Vallangouyard	8
Herouville	5
Méry-sur-Oise	6
Epinay-les-St.-Denis	19		Cross the Seine.
Asnières	5		“
Paris	4		Ask for the Rue de Villières, take the Boulevard Gouvignon-St.-Cyr, which leads to the Porte Neuilly.
ROUTE 3. ROUTE FROM BEAUVAIS TO PARIS.
Beauvais
St. Quentin	14	D’Angleterre.
La Fère	25	De l’Europe.
Coucy-le-Château	25	Pomme d’Or.
Noyon	30	Du Nord.
Compiègne	20	La Cloche.
Pierrefonds	17
Crépy-en-Valois	25	Trois.
Valois		Pigeons.
Senlis	25	De France.
Chantilly	13	Du Cygne.
Beaumont	25	Quatre fils d’Aymon.
Pontoise	25	Grand Cerf.
Poissy	15	De Rouen.
St. Germain	8	Prince des Galles.	By way of the Forest to Neuilly and Porte Maillot.
Paris	25
ROUTE 4. FROM DIEPPE TO PARIS.[242]
Dieppe		Soleil d’Or.	There is no good stopping place between Dieppe and Rouen, save at Tôtes.
Rouen	57	La Poste.
Boos	11
Ecouis	21	De la Paix.
Les Thilliers	15
Gisors	16	L’Ecu.
Beauvais	32	L’Ecu.
See Routes to Paris (pages 240 and 241).
ROUTE 5. FROM ROUEN TO PARIS.
Rouen		La Poste.	Good, but hilly.
Boos[243]	11
Petit Andelys	21	Chaîne d’Or (or 1 kilo, further Grand Cerf at Grand Andelys)	Cross the Seine.
Vernon	13	Soleil d’Or.
Mantes	24	Grand Cerf.
Pontoise	30
See Route 3 to Paris (page 241).
ROUTE 6. FROM HAVRE TO ROUEN.
Havre		D’Angleterre.
Caudebec	50	Aigle D’Or.
Rouen	36	La Poste.[244]
ROUTE 7. FROM HAVRE TO ANGERS OR ST. MALO.
Havre (ferry to)		D’Angleterre.
Honfleur		Cheval Blanc.
Pont-de-L’Evêque	16	Bras d’Or.
Lizieux	17	D’Espagne.	Very hilly.
Caen	40	Grand Hotel St. Pierre.
Bayeux	28	Du Luxembourg.
St. Lo	40	De Normandie.
Coutances	29	Trois Rois.
Granville	29	Des Bains.
Avranches	26	De Londres.
Pontorson	22		To St. Malo, Dol 20, Vivier 6; St. Mal 22 (Hotel Franklin).
Mont St. Michel	9	Mme. Poulard.
Fougères	34	Des Voyageurs.
Vitry	18	Des Voyageurs.
Laval	38	De Paris.
Château Gontier	24
Angers[245]	50	Du Faisan.
ROUTE 8. NEAR PARIS AND TOURAINE. FROM PARIS TO ANGERS.
Paris			Best to train to Melun, although one can ride to Versailles, thence to Sceaux and Fontainebleau, or direct by Villeneuve St. George. There is, however ever, much traffic and paving.
Melun
Fontainebleau	21	Cadran Bleu.
Pithiviers	48	La Poste.
Orléans	32	Du Loiret.	Cross the Loire at Beaugency. (expensive).
Blois	15	D’Angleterre.
Amboise	32	Lion d’Or.	Cross river at Ouzain for Château de Chaumont.
Chenonceau	16	Bon Laboureur.
Tours	32	Grand Monarque.	Excursions may be made from Tours to Lôches, Bourges, Chinon, Chartres, &c. All the highroads about here are good.
Langeais	24	Lion d’Or.
Saumur	39	Budan.
Les Rosiers	16	De La Poste.
Angers	31	De Londres.
			(This route, with the numerous excursions to be made on the banks of the Loire, is one of the most interesting in France, and can be made into a roundtrip by adding any of the routes to Paris, and return by St. Malo, Havre, or Dieppe).[246]
ROUTE 9. FROM PARIS TO LYONS, BY WAY OF DIJON. (See also Route 1.)
Paris			Train to Melun.
Melun
Montéreau	30	Grand Monarque.
Pont-sur-Yonne	25	De l’Ecu.
Sens	12	De l’Ecu.
Le Thiel	11		Hilly.
Cérisier	8
Arces	10
St. Florentin	16
Flogny	13
Tonnerre	15	Lion d’Or.
Ancy-le-Franc	18
Aizy-sur-Armançon	16
Montbard	11
Fain	9
Villeneuve-les-Couvres	13
Chanceaux	14
St. Seine	12
Val de Suzon[247]	10
Dijon	17	De la Cloche.
Beaune	38
Châlons-sur-Saône	30	Du Commerce.
Tournus	30	Du Sauvage.
Macon	30	Du Sauvage.
Villefranche	38	De l’Europe.
Trévoux	10	De la Terrasse.	Less hilly than Route 1.
Lyons	29	Des Négociants.
ROUTE 10. FROM LYONS TO MARSEILLES.
Lyons			Take right bank of the Rhône to Vienne.
Vienne	35	Du Nord.
Tain	55
Valance	18	Des Négociants.
Montélimart	44	De la Poste.	Good, but hilly.
Orange	53	De la Poste.
Avignon	27	Du Louvre.
Tarascon	23	Du Louvre.
Arles	16	Forum.	(Or, from Arles, train to St. Chamas, and ride thence, about 30 kilometres, to Martigues, and thence to Marseilles, about 50 kilometres).[248]
Salon	40	Grand.
ROUTE 11. FROM CHAMBERY (see Route 1) TO GENEVA.
Chambery		Des Princes.
Aix-les-Bains	14	De la Couronne.
Annecy	47
Geneva	40	De la Poste.
ROUTE 12. FROM DIJON TO GENEVA.
Dijon		De la Cloche.
Genlis	19	Lion d’Or.
Auxonne	15
Dôle	16	Du Lion.
Poligny	37	Tête d’Or.
Champignol	23	De la Poste.
St. Laurent	21
Les Rousses (frontier)	21	De la Poste.
La Faucille	19
Gex	11	De la Poste.
Geneva	17	Du Lac.[249]
ROUTE 13. FROM PARIS TO BORDEAUX.
(The direct route is Paris, Chartres, Tours. But up to Tours itis scarcely worth riding, as it is mainly uninteresting, outside of thelarge towns, and very hilly.)
Paris
Tours	230
St. Maure	44	De la Poste.
Châtellerault	33	L’Univers.
Poitiers	33	Trois Pilliers.
Couhé	35	Fradet.
Ruffec	35	Des Ambassadeurs.
Angoulème	43	Des France.
Barbézieux	34	Boule d’Or.
Régniac	7
La Granle	7
Mont Guyon	18
Guîtres	21
Libourne	16	L’Europe.
Beychac	16
Bordeaux	15	Marin.	(From Bordeaux numerous excursions may be made. One may make the journey there by this route, or come direct by sea from England, or return from Bordeaux up the coast by La Rochelle, Nantes to Angers.)

The above routes cover about the pleasantest and most interesting touring ground in France. But good roads exist all over the south. For instance, from Bordeaux, the road up the Garonne to Toulouse, 250 kilometres, is excellent, though quite flat; but in the summer time it is apt to be very hot, and the surface loose and sandy.

From this road excursions may be made all through the Pyrenees, which can be entered either at Luchon or at Pau. It is preferable, however, when touring through the Pyrenees, to train to St. Gaudens, from which place Bagnières de Luchon (Hotel de France) is 48 kilometres distant.

Towns.	Distance in Kilometres.	Hotels.
Luchon
Montrejeau	37	L’Eclair.
Bagnières de Bigorre	42
Lourdes	20
Nay	18
Pau	17	Du Commerce.

Excursions may be made all over this district, which is extremely interesting. Though very hilly, it possesses magnificent roads. From Pau to Dax the route is by