Fig. 2474.
Suppose, for example, that in [Fig. 2474], e is a pipe erected parallel to the wall, but that the holes in its elbows are tapped at an acute instead of at a right angle, then by cutting the thread on the end of pipe d untrue with its axis, its far end will rotate out of true as denoted by the shaded and by the plain lines, and all that will be necessary is to screw up the pipe sufficiently firm to make the joint, but to leave it in the position shown in the plain lines.
If the pipe tightens sufficiently before it has reached that position it may generally be eased by rotating it back and forth in the elbow with the pipe tongs. If this does not suffice, the pipe must of course be threaded sufficiently further along. To cut a pipe out of true to suit an untrue elbow, a very good plan is to cut the end of the pipe at an angle to its axis, which will cause the dies to cant over when starting the thread, but little practice being required to educate the judgment as to how much to do this to suit any given degree of error.
In erecting pipe it is best to begin at one end and screw each successive piece firmly home to its place before attaching another, so that the lengths of the pieces may be accurate and not vitiated by screwing them up and causing them to enter farther into the fittings. If it is probable that the piping may have to be taken down after erection, it should be put up at first screwed together rather tighter than will be necessary, as the thread fits become eased by being moved one within the other. This is especially the case with brass fittings, upon which it is best in cutting the lengths of pipe to have it of full length, as the threads will conform to each other sufficiently to cause the pipe to enter a thread or so farther if the pipe be rotated back and forth a few times in the fitting.
The fit should in all cases be made by tightness of thread fit, and not by the union or elbow face jambing against the end of the thread or the pipe, as joints in which this is the case will usually leak if used under pressure.
The thread of both the pipe and the fitting should be smeared with a thick lead paint. If the pipe is to be used as soon as erected, plain red lead and boiled oil should be used for the paint; but if it may stand a few days it is better to mix white and red lead in about equal quantities, as this, if given time to dry, makes a tighter job. The quantity of this paint should not be more than will thinly cover the threads, otherwise it will squeeze out when the pipes are screwed home, and falling from the end of the pipe within the fitting be apt to be carried by the steam or water to the valves, and getting between them and their seats cause them to leak. The iron cuttings should be carefully cleaned both from the pipe and the fitting for the same reason.
In cases where the piping may require to be used under heavy pressure as soon as erected, it is a good plan to use dry red lead in varnish, thoroughly hammering it to mix it well, and thinning it after it has been so hammered.
In case of emergency a loose pipe may be somewhat improved by wrapping around its thread a piece of lamp wick saturated with this varnish lead, beginning at the end of the pipe and wrapping the thread from end to end.