It is preferable that the stem of the valve stand nearly horizontal, so that any water of condensation may pass freely away with the steam and not collect and lie in the pipe as it does when vertical. If it be quite horizontal the water of condensation will drip through the stuffing box; hence it is better that it stand 10 or 12 degrees from the horizontal.
It is better in all cases to purchase nipples than to make them by hand, because when made in a machine the threads are more true to the axis than those made by hand; especially is this the case in short nipples in which there is not sufficient length to use the guide socket when engaged in threading the nipple with the hand dies.
It is a very good plan in making such short nipples to cut them off the end of a length of pipe that has been threaded by machine, and to screw on the threaded end a coupling. Into this coupling a piece of pipe may be threaded to afford a hold in the vice. If then the nipple is long enough, a guide to suit the size of the nipple may be used in the threading dies, or a guide socket to fit the diameter of the coupling may be used.
A globe valve should be so placed on the pipe that the pressure will, when the valve is closed, fall on the bottom face of the valve, so that the steam may be shut off while the valve stem is being packed.
Cotton lamp wick plaited to fit the packing space, and well oiled, is as good as anything to pack the stem with.
In taking old pipe down a refractory joint may be sometimes loosened by striking it with a hammer while it is under full pipe tongs pressure; or these means failing, the elbow or tee may be heated, which should be done as quickly as possible, so that the fitting may be hotter than the pipe. A very good method of doing this, where it is desired to save the fitting, is to pour red-hot lead over the fitting.
If it is not important to save the fitting, it may be split by a flat chisel, or by cutting a groove along it with a narrow cape chisel; or if the pipe is free the elbow may be rested on an anvil and hammered around its circumference, which will either free it or break it, if of cast iron.
When pipes are to be taken down and re-erected elsewhere they should all be marked to their fittings and places before being taken down, as this will preserve their lengths as near as possible for re-erection. Black japan is an excellent marking for this purpose because it dries quickly.
Re-fitting the Leaky Plugs and Barrels of Cocks.—When a cock leaks, be it large or small, it should be refitted as follows, which will take less time than it would to ream or bore out the cock or to turn the plug, unless the latter be very much worn indeed, while in either case the plug will last much longer if refitted, as hereinafter directed, because less metal will be taken off it in the re-fitting.
After removing the plug from the cock, remove the scale or dirt which will sometimes be found on the larger end, and lightly draw-file, with a smooth file, the plug all over from end to end. If there is a shoulder worn by the cock at the large end of the plug, file the shoulder off even and level. Then carefully clean out the inside of the cock, and apply a very light coat of red marking to the plug, and putting it into the cock press it firmly to its seat, moving it back and forth part of a revolution; then, while it is firmly home to its seat, take hold of the handle end of the plug, and pressing it back and forth at a right angle to its length note if the front or back end moves in the cock; if it moves at the front or large end, it shows that the plug is binding at the small end, while if it moves at the back or small end, it demonstrates that it binds at the front or large end. In either case the amount of movement is a guide as to the quantity of metal to be taken off the plug at the requisite end to make it fit the cock along the whole length of its taper bore.