[To face [p. 67].
TEA-TIME AT THE MEN’S QUARTERS ON SHORE.
The scene during this work of transhipping our cargo was one of surprising novelty. The barges intended for the reception of cattle, pigs, and poultry were temporarily turned into a sort of floating farmyard. The Siberians evidently did not intend to forget provision for the wants of the inner man during their long voyage up the river. In stowing the cargo, all had to work against time, for every hour of summer in these regions is of the utmost importance. Here, too, was already present the inevitable Russian official, personified by one of the most charming men I ever met, with his two attendant Cossacks, prompt to scrutinize each package of the Biscaya’s cargo. Indeed, for this purpose they had been expressly sent down some 1500 miles, on board the river steamer Phœnix, to meet us; such is the vigilance of the Czar’s officials, even at this remote distance from the central seat of government.
COSSACKS.
For us, meantime, who were spectators of the operations, the days were so much like each other that it was at times difficult to remember what day of the week it was. It was too cold and wretched to even think of going ashore, so there was nothing for it but to while away the time as best we could, and wait events. Every morning the question was asked, “When shall we get out of this?” for we were all getting heartily sick of our prolonged inactivity—eight weeks since we left London, and still a month of dreary river journey before us ere we reach our destination, Yeniseisk. However, tout vient à point à qui sait attendre, and at last came the welcome news that the ships were at length ready to start for England, and that we were to transfer ourselves and luggage to the Phœnix in readiness for the river journey. Still, there was a mingled feeling of regret as we bid farewell to the good ship Biscaya, which had carried us through so many miles of strange waters, and, in spite of cramped accommodation, had given us opportunities for many hours of real pleasure and good fellowship.
CHAPTER VI.
THE RIVER VOYAGE OF THE PHŒNIX UP TO YENISEISK.
The Yenisei river—Its noble proportions—Scenery along the banks—The first tree—Our first mishap—The return of the tug—An exciting incident.